Builds ROTW - Manrigdude (2 Viewers)

[ManrigDude]

Cool rig! You did an excellent job on your 80 in a short period of time. I really like your drawer system. I was wondering if you could share the details on the drawer sliders and handles. Where did you get them? Do you have any more pictures of the drawer construction? Thanks for the help and the excellent write up!!!!

I did the design on the box but my brother is the one with the crazy wood skillz. He does custom cabinetry as a side-business and did most of the work on the drawer system. The box and drawers are all three-quarter inch AC rated No-void plywood. All the structural joints dadoed, glued, and stapled.

It is sized so that the boxes themselves fit just between the wheel wells. Then the top (which must be attached as a separate piece or you will never get the whole works into the back) goes directly over the wheel wells (in fact it sits on top of them for support). This height also works out so that when you fold the rear seats down, they are at the same height as the top of the box. I imagine one could get an Aerobed matress and sleep in there quite comfortably.

The covering is rubber-backed outdoor carpet from Home Depot. It is attached with screws and finish washers (to keep the screws from just going right through the carpet). The screws sink into the carpet enough not to get snagged on gear as you load/unload. The metal edge guard is also from Home Depot and protects the box from getting gouged up when loading gear. The whole thing is finished in clear polyurethane.

The slides are manufactured by Knape & Vogt (USA) and are the 40” size. Model KV8900B-40 Full Extension. The are rated 300-500lbs depending on application. I purchased through USA Cabinet Hardware ($142.55 per set). It is critcal to get VERY heavy duty slides or the drawers will flex when extended and hit the tailgate. Mine don't flex AT ALL even with quite a bit of weight in there.

http://www.knapeandvogt.com/kv/Draw...0+Extra+Heavy-Duty+Slide.htm?NRMODE=Published

http://www.usacabinethardware.com


The pulls are manufactured by Nielsen Sessions (USA). They are the "Spring-Load Recessed Folding Stl Pull Handle Dull Black, Cushion Grip" I purchased them through McMaster Carr. Their model # is 13195A63 at $10.30 Each

http://www.casehardware.com/products/category.asp?catid=2

http://www.mcmaster.com/

The slides are very smooth and if you are parked on the slightest hill and open the tailgate, both drawers will come sliding out and hit you right in the . . . lap So, for the latches, I wanted something that would hold the drawers closed and was lockable but didn't require a key every time you wanted to get in there. What I ended up using was a fence latch from Home Depot. Just dig through the bin to find 2 with the same key number so both drawers will be keyed alike.



Hope that helps. Here's a couple more Pix:

 

[ManrigDude]

great job!

where does one find bridging ladders like these?

When I was researching Land Rovers, I would see them all the time on built up Rovers but you never really see them in the states. I know, I know that's because Rover's need them and Cruisers don't . . . . . .

Anyway, they seemed to me to be a great idea for getting unstuck in deep sand/snow/mud or bridging a steep ditch ect. The problem is, from what I could find, they are basically not sold in the US. I'll bet you its for liability reasons (damn lawyers )

They are available in the UK (link below) for 129 pounds which I think is about $230 plus shipping and duty. So that's over $300 easy. And that's IF they will ship them to the U.S.

http://www.bridgingladders.co.uk/

HOWEVER, that exact same material is sold in the US for use as industrial grating / decking for walkways, docks, etc. I did a Google search, found a local company that specialized in industrial decking materials, and had them cut me 2 pieces. I think I paid about $120 for the pair. They didn't ask what I was going to use them for and I don't think you should volunteer the info to spare them the liability. I studied the specs and the 2" thick material should easily hold a fully loaded cruiser (1/2 of it anyway) at the full 4' span.

 

[acolella]

Love your drawer set up. Utlity is key. Any reason why you did put the aux. fuse block in the interior? i.e. under the driver seat?

 

[ManrigDude]

Love your drawer set up. Utlity is key. Any reason why you did put the aux. fuse block in the interior? i.e. under the driver seat?

No real reason except that I wasn't going to use an inline fuse between the battery and the fuse block so I wanted to keep it pretty close to the battery. You could easily add a high-capacity inline fuse right at the battery and put the aux fuse block anywhere you like. It would definately be more protected from moisture inside the cab. You need to run a pretty heavy cable to the fuse block (I think I used 6 ga) so it's just one more thing to have to run through the firewall.

 

[Nordic]

Doesnt the vertically mounted jerry can make you tip over on off-camber?

 

[Beowulf]

I like the versatility and self-reliant features you've designed in to your truck. Nice job.

More details and pics on the Warn connectors and the muti-use 12v connection at the rear of the truck ( ? below the rear bumper ?).

What size cable(s)? Both +12v & -12v or just +12v? From where to where? Fuse, circuit breaker, or what? Size of the fuse? Did you run the heavy cable in convoluted tubing? Reason for selecting the Warn connectors? You mentioned "flipping a switch." Is the rear connection switched? If yes, you must have used a relay... what size?

Which version of the Hellroaring did you select? Most I've seen are mounting it closer to the aux battery and running the cables in front of the radiator. You selected a firewall mount with the cables at the rear of the engine compartment. Was there a reason for selecting this location?

I can see with the 2 winches & 2 spare tyres that you are a suspenders + belt kinda guy. You must have been a Boy Scout as a kid.

-B-

 

[fzj80kidpen]

Now I see the drawers.
Nice indeed.

 

[barrypt5]

Mind if I ask the NAME of the local company that sold you the industrial grating?

 

[ManrigDude]

I like the versatility and self-reliant features you've designed in to your truck. Nice job.

More details and pics on the Warn connectors and the muti-use 12v connection at the rear of the truck ( ? below the rear bumper ?).

What size cable(s)? Both +12v & -12v or just +12v? From where to where? Fuse, circuit breaker, or what? Size of the fuse? Did you run the heavy cable in convoluted tubing? Reason for selecting the Warn connectors? You mentioned "flipping a switch." Is the rear connection switched? If yes, you must have used a relay... what size?

Which version of the Hellroaring did you select? Most I've seen are mounting it closer to the aux battery and running the cables in front of the radiator. You selected a firewall mount with the cables at the rear of the engine compartment. Was there a reason for selecting this location?

I can see with the 2 winches & 2 spare tyres that you are a suspenders + belt kinda guy. You must have been a Boy Scout as a kid.

-B-

The rear power outlet is a Warn quick connect kit (Warn PN 32963). It comes with 20' 2 gauge power cables (both positive and negative), a solenoid, a short 18" lead to go from the battery to the solenoid, and all the dust covers etc that you need. I mounted the solenoid to the inside of the fender right next to the blue optima battery (I might be able to get a PIC tonight if it's not dark when I get home). You connect the 18" lead from the + terminal on the battery to one side of the solenoid. Then you connect the + terminal from the winch in front AND the rear power lead to the other side of the solenoid. Then you wire a small switch in the cab to give +12v to the trigger terminal on the solenoid. I didn't install a fuse in this circuit because the solenoid is only 18" away from the battery so the rest of the cable is not hot until you throw the switch.

I attached the 2 ga cable to the inside of the frame rails (by the brake lines) running to the back of the truck with the heavy-duty zip ties that are supplied with the kit. It's very secure and protected and the insulation on the wire is very tough so I didn't put it in convoluted tubing.

I bought a set of 4 gauge 24' heavy duty jumper cables and then lopped off 2 of the clamps and installed a Warn quick connector (Warn PN 22680 - comes with 2 connectors) to the end of the cables. So, you just plug one end of the jumper cables into the rear outlet, clamp the other end onto the other guy's battery, throw the switch in the cab to activate the solenoid and give him the juice . Very safe, no sparks, etc. I did the same thing with my Extremeaire compressor (which draws WAY too much juice to just use a cigarette lighter plug) and my inverter using additional quick connect plugs. Just plug them into the power outlet when you need them, flip the switch and you're off.

 

[ManrigDude]

Mind if I ask the NAME of the local company that sold you the industrial grating?

Robertson Grating. There are probably similar suppliers in other areas of the country. I don't think you would want to get into shipping this stuff too far since it's a tad bulky and not exactly light weight (probably 20 lb each).


http://www.rgpgrates.com/servlet/co...&supplierID=406&commodityID=577&searchIndex=0


I thought about having them cut me a bunch of identical pieces and them offering them on the forum but then I thought about the potential liablility and thought better of it.

Come to think of it, with all this wiring advice I'm putting out there, do ALL this stuff at your own risk

 

[ManrigDude]

Which version of the Hellroaring did you select? Most I've seen are mounting it closer to the aux battery and running the cables in front of the radiator. You selected a firewall mount with the cables at the rear of the engine compartment. Was there a reason for selecting this location?


-B-

I forgot to answer your question on the isolator. I used a Hellroaring BIC-95300B. I think they are $190 including shipping. It connects between the second battery and the starter solenoid so the firewall is actually a pretty good in-between location. It's a nice flat spot and up high in the engine compartment to keep it out of any potential water (although I believe it is completely sealed). I used heat-shrink tubing and crimp lugs on all the connections to make sure it was water-resistant and protected from shorts on nearby metal. The cable down to the starter solenoid runs through heat-resistant tubing (purchased at NAPA I think) just to make sure the cable insulation doesn't melt. The negative cable from the second battery DOES run along the top of the radiator to connect to the primary battery.

 

[Dogburn]

Very nice rig. Inspiring.

One question: Why mount the fire extinguisher high on the C pillar? It seems that if you were hit hard in that corner it might break loose and become a projectile.

-Dog

 

[Hltoppr]

Very well done, well thought out rig!



-H-

 

[collector_edi]

A true inspiration. I am getting crazy thoughts regarding my stock 80. I tell you if I lived in an area like yours I would go nuts.

Great job chronically your journey.

 

[Arleaux]

Well done, I'm diggin those wheels.

 

[collector_edi]

A true inspiration. I am getting crazy thoughts regarding my stock 80. I tell you if I lived in an area like yours I would go nuts.

Great job chronically your journey.

Great job chronicling your journey. If I mistype that word again...

 

[ManrigDude]

Very nice rig. Inspiring.

One question: Why mount the fire extinguisher high on the C pillar? It seems that if you were hit hard in that corner it might break loose and become a projectile.

-Dog

That's a valid concern and is discussed in a couple of the previous posts. After all the discussion, I went out again and looked at the mounting and the bracket. I performed some detailed engineering analysis (ie yanking on it ) and I'm nearly 100% certain that thing's not going anywhere. I guess there's a tradeoff between having a reasonably large extinguisher in an accessible location vs. exposure in an impact. I guess you do your best to minimize the risk and then you go with it. Hell, I could completely eliminate the risk by just staying at home on the couch but that's not why I bought a cruiser

Thanks everyone for the compliments on the rig!!

 

[willie]

You did agreat job using space and mounting all your gear. Clearly you gave this thought before jumping in. Well done.

 

[jlc]

nice!

 

[yotadude]

Sorry if I missed it but did you just use castor correction bushings or did you use a bracket as well?