ROTM- klinetime574

[klinetime574]

Just got a basic cross-bar set-up from @reevesci

I'm going to use it for my canoe and whatever else I want to put on my roof!

Four of his gutter feet and some custom bars. I told him what I wanted to do and he made it happen. Happy customer.

Just put them on for some pictures. I'll paint them soon, and then hopefully use them. Although poser status may be possible 24/7, looks like I'll be able to fit in and out of my garage with them on!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Just got a basic cross-bar set-up from @reevesci

I'm going to use it for my canoe and whatever else I want to put on my roof!

Four of his gutter feet and some custom bars. I told him what I wanted to do and he made it happen. Happy customer.

View attachment 964960 View attachment 964961 View attachment 964962 View attachment 964963

Just put them on for some pictures. I'll paint them soon, and then hopefully use them. Although poser status may be possible 24/7, looks like I'll be able to fit in and out of my garage with them on!

I try to make those mounts as low profile as I can.. Not everyone has a 10' shop door like me... HEE HEE!

Enjoy Kline,

J

 

[klinetime574]

Good thing @reevesci has a faster product turn-around than I do.

I just painted the cross bars yesterday/ day before that. Rustoleum Primer and High Performance Enamel in Gloss Black. Came out pretty good.

Don't paint the cross bars laying on the ground... I had to add more paint. Fortunately they did need a third coat. The process worked well for the mounts, but if you can I would just suggest hanging everything from a tree or something.

The painting process was two coats of primer and then three coats of paint. 5 minutes between each coat except for after the last primer. Paint could be applied immediately. I used the same paint on my trailer hitch. No complaints.

Gonna actually use the cross bars tomorrow! I'll post pics

 

[cruisermatt]

You can get some short plastic feet and attach then so a canoe doesn't scratch the same paint. Something like this in black:

 

[gregnash]

K, since you have a garage now the easiest way to paint stuff like that is do a small bolt into the threaded post used for mounting and tie string to the bolt. Then hang in the garage. This way the threads do not get paint in them but you are still able to paint the entire thing without laying it down and possibly messing up the paint.

For your canoe, go to any watersports store and invest in some foam pads (or if your can find them get a water noodle from Target/Walmart/Etc.) and tie those around the crossbars.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

A, Send me a few good shots with the canoe loaded up so I can add them on the T-T website.

J

 

[klinetime574]

Here are pics! I didn't catch anything, but I had fun using the canoe

I've gotta do some maintenance on this thing though. I have a brake system leak again, and a clutch system leak. Been topping off DOT3 lately... lol

And I have an oil leak.

And I need a paint job

And I wouldn't trade this thing for the world! I will need to get a second car though. Almost done with my classes!!

 

[klinetime574]

Today I did some repairs to my distributor. I was able to locate a used vacuum advance, and already had some new o-rings for the cap and the shaft of the distributor. I swapped out the vacuum advance, and then put on the new o-rings.

I then proceeded to install and re-install the distributor three times... I forgot to make note of where the rotor was pointing before I pulled the distributor. Dumb of me. I was on the Line on the flywheel, but not the compression stroke. So I installed it backwards, then I fixed that, and then I was a tooth off (Oil pump slot greater than 22 degrees). The third time was the charm. Where I tightened the distributor was spot on the BB. Funny stuff.

Just pulled, dirty distributor:

The advance removed, one c-clip on the inside and one screw externally.

Old cap o-ring on the left, new on the right.

New shaft o-ring on the left, old on the right.

Cleaned up, replaced the o-rings and advance.

Just took a short spin after I got the thing running, I can't say I notice a huge difference with a working advance, but I feel better about it

 

[klinetime574]

So after my first full tank of gas with a working vacuum advance, I gained 1 mpg. Up to 13mpg from 12. Not sure if this was because of the advance or because of the increased highway driving I'm doing for my commute. ~53 miles per day. I'm going to bump up my tire pressure for this coming week, and try to squeak out another MPG. Hopefully.

Quick question: Is it normal for the rear tires to spin with trans in neutral and clutch not engaged?

...details...
When I was doing the distributor work I put the rear axle on jack stands (tires off the ground). I started the engine, and in neutral my rear tires were spinning. I grabbed one and of course the other started to spin (lock-rite in the diff). When I engaged the clutch the tires slowed to a stop.


How often do y'all replace spark plugs? 10-15k miles? Or just visual inspection? I had them out while doing that work and they were... dirty, to say the least. They have <10k on them at this point.

I bought some spray paint for my 60. Supposed to be color matched, haven't gotten a chance to test spray it yet. It's been in the 40's and raining when I have free time

 

[Flipper1938]

9/16/84- My Dad standing proud next to the new Landcruiser

Kinda surprised to the leaf springs were so flat when the FJ60 was new. I had always assumed they ended up flat over time with use/abuse.

 

[klinetime574]

It might just be the angle? They were definitely not as flat as they were when I removed them in 2007. Lol. The rear end is what went out anyways. @Flipper1938

 

[klinetime574]

Did an oil change and a coolant flush this last Saturday. Definitely needed both.

The oil went about 3,600 miles. It was black, and low. I have an oil leak

The coolant flush was weird, but I think it helped. Didn't use any flush chemicals. I was scared of creating problems. ie- a leaky heater core. Mine is original.

I used one of those flush tees hooked up to the hose between the heater valve and cylinder head. After I drained all the coolant I filled it up and started flushing with the engine running. First draining out of the petcock hole, and then I had this "splash guard" that came in the same kit as the tee. Filed that down to fit snug in the radiator neck, and then had to increase the amount of water going in so that it would push water through the top of the radiator. 5/8" heater hose fit inside the splash guard so I could route it out of the engine bay.

The water that came out was a murky light brown. It eventually ran clear from the petcock and then moved on to the radiator neck.

Once all of that was good I drained all of the remaining water. Even opened the block drain. Nothing was in there after having drained from the petcock.

Tip: A really long extension and a 14mm swivel socket can reach the block drain from the front left fender well. Above the frame and beneath the sheet metal there is a gap.

Filled with 50/50 mixture of Distilled Water and Ethylene Glycol Coolant of choice. (O'Reilly Green in my case)

I'm skeptical about leaving the tee on the truck. I may pull it and replace with a straight section of hose, will keep for future use. Also I don't think the placement was optimal for flushing. If I do this again I will put it on the passenger side of engine after the water passes through the heater core. Because of where I placed it, water had to go through the heater core, and then to the water pump. Heater never got hot hot while flushing as you can imagine.

Sorry for the long post, but hopefully this helps someone in the future

 

[klinetime574]

I just entered the gas receipts I had in my wallet. So I have an update. First tank (already had entered this one) with working distributor advance 13mpg.

Second tank 13mpg.

Third tank. Only burned 11-12 gallons. 14mpg.

Fourth tank. Burned 21 gallons. Bumped tire pressure from 25 to 30 pounds in each tire. Results... 13mpg.

Logically thinking I should have gained a MPG, but it remained the same. I got the same gas mileage on 25lbs vs 30lbs per tire. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that 25lbs does not hurt MPG. And 30lbs does not help. Probably going to stick to 25lbs per tire. It rides smoother.

 

[klinetime574]

On one of my last tanks I got 15.7 mpg. No clue how that happened.

Not gonna be going through gas like that anymore though.




Coming to you with an average of 5 speeds and 133.5 horsepower...

My new DD. 2015 Toyota Corolla S Plus, 6 speed manual. 48 miles on it when I signed the dotted line. Should do over 30mpg on the highway with the little 1.8 4cyl. It's crazily loaded out. Makes up for those features I've been missing for the last 8 years.

Changed the oil in the transmission and transfercase today on the 60. The transmission was over-full and the transfercase was low. Luckily I still had my bypass hose. Installed that and I don't need to worry about it anymore.

Life is good.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Congrats A,

Nothing like that new car smell, especially when it is SO DESERVED!

Cheers

J

 

[sk8salomon]

as always, great thread! love the new gutter mounts, i will contact reev. nice looking truck!

 

[klinetime574]

Started some more work on the 60 today. Time to address the roof. You can't see it a majority of the time but it is important.

Before:

After lots of hand sanding with 180 grit on a sanding block:

Needless to say my arms were a little tired. So I went to the store and bought this:

$20 and it'll do the job just fine

Will be slow moving on this. Hopefully I can sand with the orbital tomorrow.

It's nice having a second car! Lol

 

[klinetime574]

I'm also debating whether or not to remove the chrome gutter trim. I kinda want to take it off for painting, but once it's off it can't really go back on.

What say ye?

 

[cruisermatt]

Mask it off if you're just doing the top of the roof... If you pull the whole thing I have a new OEM drivers A-pillar trim to contribute.

Hell the whole set might still be available, I replaced all of mine when I painted mine.

 

[klinetime574]

Oh. So you can still get the black moulding that goes under the chrome? Interesting...

I think the roof looks sort of unfinished without the chrome trim covering it, but it doesn't really work when you have gutter clamps over the chrome. Dilemma.