ROTM- klinetime574

[klinetime574]

Got 12mpg on the tank of purely running with the Aisan carb. Was probably 40% highway / 60% city. Not bad.

Still looking for recommendations on a dwell meter. Gonna order a vacuum advance tonight.

I got my hatch struts that I won from Jason at CruiserYard. Those things are strong. Haven't gotten a chance to install yet, gonna have to go to the gym and make sure I'm strong enough to shut that hatch once I get them on...

I'm gonna go bump the infamous "My Desmog Thread" now

 

[Slow Left]

Still looking for recommendations on a dwell meter.

I use a multi-purpose, handheld 'Sears Digital Engine Analyzer 161.2168'...measures: Volts, Ohms, Dwell (for 4, 5, 6 & 8 cyl. engines) and Tach (for 4, 5, 6 & 8 cyl. engines).
I tried to find the model on the internet (Serial No. 51227309), but nothing showed up. The picture below is similar, but not the same model.

To measure RPMs, set the dial on the Digital Engine Analyzer to 'Tach 6 cyl' and then hook the positive (+) lead from the analyzer to the negative (-) terminal on the ignition coil as outlined on page 4-2 of the Toyota '2F Engine Emission Control Manual'. The manual cautions not to let the coil see ground, so I remove the negative (-) lead from the Digital Engine Analyzer...it hasn't seen to affect the lifetime of the Analyzer.

Sears doesn't seem to manufacture this specific Analyzer anymore, I can't recommend another model because I've always used this good ol' trusty one...
You don't really need an Analyzer that is too fancy. It's nice to have the Volt and Ohm function for simple continuity/resistivity measurements for general electrical troubleshooting.

I would suggest that any model you consider is capable of being hooked up the way outlined in the Toyota '2F Engine Emission Control Manual'...in other words, without grounding or attaching the negative (-) lead from the Analyzer to the terminals on the truck battery (see page 4-2 )

Maybe someone else can recommend a better model...

 

[klinetime574]

@Slow Left thanks for the response!

I found an Actron unit on Amazon for ~$50. I searched engine analyzer (which I had never even heard of before) and it showed up. I'll wait to see if anyone else has a recommendation.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

A, I have an Actron unit from Amazon.. You want it... I used it for Marley and probably won't ever use it again..

This is the one I have..


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062YUUS/?tag=ihco-20

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

A. PM me if you want it.. Need addy again...

J

 

[klinetime574]

Well I got things tuned up mo' betta.

The engine tool is sweet. Thanks @reevesci !! Love being able to see a more precise engine RPM. Turning the mixture screw while watching the engine RPM really makes the process brainless. Got the idle set at 650 after using the lean drop method.

Before tuning the carb I checked the timing. Adjusted as needed.

Lean Drop Method:

Mixture screw two turns out.

Turn mixture to maximum RPM.

Drop idle to 690 with speed screw.

Turn mixture to maximum RPM.

Drop idle to 690 with speed screw.

Repeat as necessary.

Once the engine RPM no longer rises while turning the mixture screw leave it where it stops increasing RPM and then drop the idle with the mixture screw to 650.

I also got a bracket made by a buddy for the vacuum switch on the driver fender. The thread size/ pitch on that switch is a M10x1.0.

Then I got the hatch struts on that I won from CruiserYard @arcteryx

I went with the bungee cord theory rather than the stick theory to hold the hatch up while working.

The hatch does open a little taller than before. These struts have a little more throw. I like it.

So after tuning this carb properly, and getting that vacuum switch grounded my 2F should run great!

I still haven't ordered a vacuum advance. Sigh. Gonna be tight on money. Getting a garage soon (Renting a house)

 

[Slow Left]

...Once the engine RPM no longer rises while turning the mixture screw leave it where it stops increasing RPM and then drop the idle with the speed screw to 650.

Klinetime, just a quick note to address a possible discrepancy. My notes on the last step of the 'lean drop' procedure is to use the idle mixture screw, not the idle speed screw, to set the final RPM to 650. I'm assuming that's why they call it the 'lean drop', because as you turn that idle mixture screw in, you'll see the rpm go down from 690 to it's final resting spot (leaned out) at 650.

I could be wrong, but that's the way I read it.

 

[klinetime574]

@Slow Left you are correct. I typed that wrong. And also did it wrong. Oops.

It made sense when I typed it but you are right. I'm glad you caught that. I'll have to go tune the carb again haha

I'm gonna fix my post for future lookers of the procedure.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

A, I'm glad it worked out for you. Not the best one out there, but it worked good for me a time or two and the price was right for both of us!

J

 

[Slow Left]

@Slow Left you are correct. I typed that wrong. And also did it wrong. Oops.

It made sense when I typed it but you are right. I'm glad you caught that. I'll have to go tune the carb again haha

I'm gonna fix my post for future lookers of the procedure.

Alright. Not sure how much a difference it will make, but I bet it'll make some difference on fuel economy.

I caught it because I've been working through my own demons hunting for the correct performance settings, so I went through that whole dilemma myself.
I've come to the conclusion that I am tuning the carb correctly (as outlined above), but that I must have a vac leak or misrouted vac line because during acceleration under load I'm hitting a flat spot (hesitation/stumbling). My vac on the intake manifold at idle is excellent, no indication of a vac leak, my ignition advance checks out and my carb was recently rebuilt.
I think I've got it narrowed down to either small leak on the manifold gasket (i've got an exhaust leak on the manifold gasket for sure) or issues with the accelerator pump. Could also be head gasket problems, but haven't run the compression tests yet.

Anyways, good news that you've got that tune-up procedure down now with the new analyzer. That's a score! Props to reevesci on that one!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Alright. Not sure how much a difference it will make, but I bet it'll make some difference on fuel economy.

I caught it because I've been working through my own demons hunting for the correct performance settings, so I went through that whole dilemma myself.
I've come to the conclusion that I am tuning the carb correctly (as outlined above), but that I must have a vac leak or misrouted vac line because during acceleration under load I'm hitting a flat spot (hesitation/stumbling). My vac on the intake manifold at idle is excellent, no indication of a vac leak, my ignition advance checks out and my carb was recently rebuilt.
I think I've got it narrowed down to either small leak on the manifold gasket (i've got an exhaust leak on the manifold gasket for sure) or issues with the accelerator pump. Could also be head gasket problems, but haven't run the compression tests yet.

Anyways, good news that you've got that tune-up procedure down now with the new analyzer. That's a score! Props to reevesci on that one!

SL, I try to help out when I can. I remember when I was young and had to buy or rent everything and had very little money... I spent a ton of money on various things that I only needed once or twice.. Kline has been a good friend and I help him and others all I can.

J

 

[klinetime574]

I found myself with a pair of these after work.

Pretty sure they are spot beams.

I wired them up after researching. They had a factory harness but it was messed with a little bit. What I did worked. So that's okay with me. Gonna finalize some wire lengths and then install.

I think I'm going to mount them up high on the second set of ARB holes. I know it doesn't look the best, but putting them in the path of the headlights doesn't make sense and I would need to drill holes for anything other than this.

Opinions welcome

 

[The Phoenician]

you know they're gonna be tough because it's made by rigid .

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

A, those are BRIGHT! Damn sexy my friend. You sure you want to put them above the bar? Just thinking that a tree limb etc.. might like those as much as you do..

J

 

[klinetime574]

@reevesci What trees? I pound pavement most of the time anyway. Someone cuts me off, and they won't have eyeballs anymore

Let's just have a trial period of them mounted there. Maybe I'll change my mind.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Just thinking when you go trail riding. However, blinding a sorry SOB from time is very appealing in my book. Right along with the bag of gravel I keep in the door pocket for tailgaters... Pitch a handfull out and they usually back off quickly.

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Oh and since the layoff, I won't be in Houston anytime soon...

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

A, what watt/lumen are those. I found a 42" curved CREE light bar, 240W that I really like.

J

 

[klinetime574]

I believe these are the Dually Spot Beams. I'm not sure because I didn't buy them. They were given to me.

HERE is the info direct from Rigid Industries.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Thanks A, the Rigid products are way more expensive than the CREE?? bars I'm looking at. I guess you get what you pay for, but wonder if its the same products in a "NAMED" package though..

J