Roofing question

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May 10, 2004
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Location
Huntington, WV
so, my roof started leaking today around the chimney. so, i know its the flashing. chimney is brick above the roofline. what kind of estimates am i realistically looking at here?
 
It doesn't mean the flashing is bad. It might just need a really good cleaning and a reapplication of some sealant. If you do it yourself maybe $20.

If the flashing needs replaced then it might be a little more. Still, if you hired a company figure a couple hours plus material plus markup.

$200?
 
x2 on do it yourself. it's the #1 item on my "to do on the roof" list...
 
You might consider building a cricket to divert water flow. Scroll about halfway down the page, it's got a decent illustration of some chimney flashing.

Flashing for a New Roof
 
here are pics, does it help the diagnosis? i have someone coming out tomorrow for an estimate.

view from the driveway:
IMG_1172.jpg

different angles of the flashing on all 4 sides:
IMG_1170.jpg

IMG_1169.jpg

IMG_1167.jpg

IMG_1168.jpg

IMG_1171.jpg

IMG_1166.jpg

just inside the door from the garage where it started leaking:
IMG_1173.jpg

just outside the door to the garage where it was leaking as well:
IMG_1174.jpg
 
flashing looks good. sealant looks old. easy job. as tonkota said, since you could get up there and take the pics,, the job will be easy for you. looks like you have your saturday morning all planned out ;)
 
ok, got estimate #1 today: he says when the roofing was replaced 3-4 years ago the flashing wasnt replaced. he wants to replace some of the flashing, which will involve removing and replacing some of the shingles, resealing the remaining flashing, and also using a silicone sprayed sealant for the chimney bricks to help with waterproofing. $1425.
 
Flashing isn't that hard. Go to your local roofer supply company, buy some large flashing and a bucket of tar. You will need a bundle of the same color shingles as you have on there now to replace the ones that will break.

As for the chimney, make some grout and fill in the gaps. $300 - 400 max.
 
here are pics, does it help the diagnosis? i have someone coming out tomorrow for an estimate.


IMG_1167.jpg


this is the side I'd be looking at most of the leaks. as someone above me noted, it wouldn't hurt to remove any loose mortar and then fill it as well. the brick sealant will help with moisture as well.

pretty easy project...as quite a few of them are, but just takes some time and a little materials...


bk
 
The pic in the post above looks like the water sits on the flashing next to the brick and dosnt run away , nails thru the shingles and water backing up under too. Just seeing the old nail just sitting there with the "grit " that didnt wash down into the gutter says water sitting too long may even puddle there too . Id say this is your # 1 problem and work on this before messing with the whole thing .
 
this is the location that I'd build the cricket. It looks like you are close to the peak of the roof at this point....give water a place to go and it won't end up inside....


bk
 
the cracked mortar is one culprit but the sealant looks old. Take a sharp gasket tool and remove the old sealant and replace it with an elastomeric sealant. Not the kind that you buy at home depot or Lowes , go find a roofing supply house and buy a good tube of sealant from them. They can even closely match the color of the brick. It will run you around 10 bux a tube but two tubes should do it. Put a little over the exposed nail heads also that are holding down the flashing through the shingles. Just fyi, the black mastic that you can buy and put on the roof will last 6 months tops and the sealant should last a good 2-3 years. It's a simple job, the flashing doesn't appear to be in bad shape so I would try the sealant first.
 
There are a lot of areas where there is no flashing at all and a wrong pitch in that valley behind the chimney. You should even have a close look at the metalparts for tiny holes or cracks at the corners/joins of the flashing.

IMG_1167.jpg


IMG_1168.jpg


IMG_1169.jpg


The easiest Material for you would be a bitumen/aluminium flashband that you can heat up and put on yourself with a little hand torch.

Another obvious thing is that some of the cement on the rear of that chimney seems to be permanently wet and has some cracks. You may seal these areas with silicone chaulk.
Do you heat your house with propane?
If so, have a look into the chimney from the top if you have condensation water inside the chimney.....the cement usually isnt permanently wet in these corners from rainwater.

Just my 2 pence of doing roofing for 30 years now...;)
 

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