roof rack/cage for bj73 (3 Viewers)

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Thanks Ron,

You have first hand experience at this so I'm gonna go with the exo rack. I bumped into Chris at the milk bar today and
asked if he could build the exo rack. He said he's done this sorta stuff before. He did an excellent job fixing up my boat
trailer after it started falling apart. You have to go down some pretty rough tracks to get to the virgin water. Anyway, I've
got the ball rolling on this one. I'll post how the mod goes when I get around to doing it!!!

Cheers:beer:

Gav.
 
Gav,
if you talk about exo rack, do you mean build from the chassis and upward or from the body?
Anyway, do not construct the rack too sturdy. Keep in mind that the chassis as well as the body will flex a bit during driving, especially on uneven ground ( one wheel in the air). The rack should be able to flex as well as to avoid unnecessary strain on the rack itself or body/chassis.
In my opinion ( and I think Crusher (Wayne) has the same) one should never construct a rack that attaches to the body AND the chassis. The body moves a lot in relation to the chassis and besides that it could introduce unnecessary noise and vibrations 'connecting' body and chassis via the rack-construction.
Keep us informed as many posters are looking for good solutions.
 
Hi Ron,

Yeah my plan was to mount it to the chassis. I want to have the front bar coming off the chassis just behind the doors
and the side steps. The rear bar is a little trickier cause I might have to trim the rear bumper. The bars will come off the
chassis at right angles or a little less to clear the body then up and over the top. The rack will then be welded/bolted to the
bars to add stability. I'll keep the exo cage/rack about 2" from the body. I wouldn't want the bars touch the body. I will place
rubber blocks in places to stop this happening if it needs it. It works in my head. I'll work on some designs and post them to
see what you think.

Cheers.

Gav.
 
I'm also very interested in seeing how you mount this to your truck. The exo rack is my next mod as well, only I dont want a tent up there, its for my boat. These rough roads are just killer on my trailer, and boat. The boat isnt too heavy, its just a 12' aluminum, but what about wind load?
 
Okie Dokes,

Here are some pics of where I intend to mount the ExoRack to the chassis.

Front mount: It will go between the body mount bracket and spring hanger. It should clear the side step and sill easily.

Frontexomount.jpg


Rear Mount: Its a bit tighter here but it should fit behind the body mount bracket and on and below rear bar
mount. The plate that gets welded to the end of the ExoRack bar should bolt to the chassis with the existing mounts
for the rear bar. Have to see what the welder reckons tho. Will probably have to reroute the trailer plug cable to.

Rearexocagemount.jpg


Cheers.
 
. The boat isnt too heavy, its just a 12' aluminum, but what about wind load?

There is nothing more aerodynamically efficient that an upside down boat on the roof. Might even go faster:D
If it goes past the windscreen,and being a 12 footer it will,you may trap some air under there. I cant see it being a big problem though.
 
With an exo frame, the rack being on the rig all the time is much more of a penalty then an occasional boat.
Although my rack support consists of only two short pipes and is fairly flush with the body I think I have a penalty of about 5-10 % in fuelconsumption compared to a clean condition. That is without load.
 
Hey All,

Just won a roof rack on eBay that will be used in construction of the ExoRack.
$50 Sweet:)
It came off a Nissan Ute.
Here are some pics:

RoofRack.jpg


RoofRack1.jpg
 
I spose 1 or 2 litres per hundred k's is a small price to pay for a rack.

Luckely I can afford it.:grinpimp:

But if you start accounting......let's say it's 2 liters per 100 km.
25000 average per year...
that's 500 liters extra per year....
price per liter (in our area) 1,40 USD (last year around 2 USD)
Extra costs per year: 700 USD (last year 1000 USD):grinpimp::D:grinpimp::D

BTW, the rack you got from Ebay looks nice to start from
 
Thanks Ron,

I picked up the rack yesterday. 300k round trip. $50 rack,
$40 fuel.Pretty good deal. The rack just needs a wire brush,
kill rust undercoat and a black top coat and it will look brand
new. I'm still weighing up my options. I like the exorack
idea alot but I'm not sure if it will make my rig look fugly.
I will design very carefully.
 
I did that, even used large plates to spread the weight. But even then, despite mild loads (about 75 kgs max) the FRP top started to develop cracks.
See posting no 2 in this thread. edit from 2nd post - After about a year cracks started to develop in the upper corners of the rear (cargo)doors.

Could it perhaps have been bcause of youre raised rear roof not being as strong as our straight FRP's ? My idea is to carry much less than your'e 75kg, only large stuff. I have 2 Fluid sit-on-top kayaks, or the camping chairs and table etc. I do not tow, it is only me and sometimes SWAMBO, I like to carry everthing inside, but the space is just limited. And I could mount some spotlights on top!!

Boogie, seems like a nice rack to start off with, I'am thinking of going with alluminium tubing, round for the frame or perhaps sqaure ?
 
Could it perhaps have been bcause of youre raised rear roof not being as strong as our straight FRP's ? My idea is to carry much less than your'e 75kg, only large stuff. I have 2 Fluid sit-on-top kayaks, or the camping chairs and table etc. I do not tow, it is only me and sometimes SWAMBO, I like to carry everthing inside, but the space is just limited. And I could mount some spotlights on top!!

Hmm can be, but don't think so.
The plates to spread the weight (four of them, each about 15 cm wide), I used, extended down and were attached to the 'basic' FRP top itself. The points were they attached were fine. The cracks started to develop in the upper corners of the rear door opening (both side). I assume the forces developing when the rig is swaying from left to right and back on corrugated roads or when off-road are too much for the FRP to withstand.
The FRP may look as being thickwalled, but it is not. It has an inner and outer wall (nothing in between) each about 3-4 millimeter thick.

Edit: If you are going to carry only light stuff up there, why use a rack? Create a railing left and right, store the stuff directly on the roof and secure by straps.
 
Hey Bennie,

The steel rack I've got is pretty light. Probably weighs about 10kgs or so. Aluminium would be even better for light loads
and they flex more than steel which would be good for the frp top. I'm still undecided which way to go with mounting the
rack. I could bolt some gutter mounts to the rack and put it on or go to the hassle of fabricating a cage to mount the rack
on. The cage it going to add weight up top which is going to create a higher center of balance, increase fuel consumption
and so on. I really want an RRT for treking so I need a rack.

We need more feedback from people who have racks on their cruisers. Ron, your info on racks is great but more first
hand accounts on racks and its effect on the frp would be great.

Cheers.
 
Hi to everyone. I just got my first Land Cruiser, I am from Spain but live in Senegal.
It is a bj73 from 1989 aaaaand I am looking for solutions for aroof rack.
My extra problem is that in Senegal I only have acces to a local welder.
Sooo I have read a lot of inputs but the more I read the more stressed I am LOL
Anyways, I will be reading and sharing if I find something TIA
 
Seems pretty neat to me. I like this simple setup, it looks pretty practical.
73 rack.jpg
73 rack s.jpg
 
You need to be careful with the amount of weight you put up top on the FRP. Its not designed to handle a lot up there. The rain gutters are pretty minimal (and in my opinion not well designed in the first place, there should have been one over the sliding windows like the 4runner of the exact same era). A few people have welded up racks that go down to the bumper/frame and support the load there as well.


Edit: Something similar to the Gobi rack for the FJ40 would be great as a design example.

1695924565922.png
 
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Yes to the internal "roll cage" type inner skeleton - brace your rack directly to that. Also, before you permanently alter your vehicle for a RTT, stop to consider how many people try RTT's and stop using them because they just don't like all the problems they bring. There are always lots of them for sale, used, everywhere you look. Something to think about.
 
Hi guys, sooo I asked a local welder in Senegal to build a roof rack and a bumper guard and this is the result for less than 500us. I will keep you posted about the never-ending questioning about the roof rack on the gutters. (Also... I know, the bar they put in the window is not nice, I will take it out as soon as I can)
I need some help (pic #4): the floor where the shifts are is completely shapeless, just a carpet/tissue on it. Is there any DIY somebody knows to give it some shape? (other than to buy it since it is not possible here in Senegal).

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