roof rack - 80 series full length rail design.

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Ive been thinking about what kevin said regarding the bend vs. welding.

Im trying to think of a way to avoid welding right now, like fold the top edge, cut a slot along the bottom edge of the uni-strut, and make the hole with less height, so the groove in the strut will lock into the rail (you'd have to put the strut in at an angle then raise it up, and bolt to the flange)

But, then you have a bit of metal protruding from the rail...

Any ideas as to what your shop would charge to burn 8 pieces of 2.25" aluminum square tube onto a rail Kevin?
 
Well, I wanted to get the roof measured out this weekend, my wife left to Orlando sunday morning so since the weather was nice(er) I figured Id measure it out when my daughter had her afternoon nap (she's a year and a half old) well, she decided she didnt need a nap and was full of energy, actually "daddy's little angel" also knocked my old apple laptop off the bed and finally killed it, though in fairness its about 6 years old, and managed to wreck a phone somehow.

Hopefully my better half will give me some time in an evening later this week so i can get some measurements, and then get a start on scratching things up.

Im still debating the flange idea here and trying to think of the best way to do this.

I dont know that this will illistrate what Im thinking, but it may work better to do a flange like kevin said, but with an extra section to bend down as well.

Ive attached a pdf with what looks like teeth at the top, at the base of the teeth there would be a bend as well, so they could lock in the tube or unistrut. The pictures on the right side show the rack as two pieces, the other piece would be bent in the middle and act like a side rail for the rack.

This is just a rough idea, does anyone have any feedback as to how this would be for fabrication/waterjet or laser table? :cheers:
 
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Not much new to report, Im gonna run down to Kevin (AWLTEQ's) shop tomorrow to pick something else up and pick his brain on design for the rack, he's a sheet metal guy and built some ok looking stuff on here :b

One thing Ive heard mentioned from bruce was that he really liked the rub rail Kevin is building into his 40 series rack, and that its a big pro to keeping branches from catching on the gutter clamps. Ive got some ideas about this but Im gonna pick kevins brain first.

Either way, I think its gonna be sweet.

Also, no one has posted any feedback as to what they'd like to see or cool stuff other people have done for me to add on.

How does anyone feel about having the side rail at the same height as the crossbars, versus having the side rails 3-5" above the crossbars?
 
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The run (edit: I meant "rub") rail is why I was thinking of extending the supports out past the wing.
 
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The run rail is why I was thinking of extending the supports out past the wing.

You mean out past the back of the rear door?

I was thinking of bringing out further back as well, for a couple reasons.

One, its easier to grab onto the rack and stand on the rear bumper, and two, it puts a replacable part out past the rear hatch, not that it gives it infinite protection, but for driving or sliding backwards into brush or small trees, it makes the first point of contact the rack instead of the rear hatch or the wing, it may save someone a dent or two.

I dont have the rear wing on mine, if you have one NLXTACY, what are the chances you could get a picture from the side (straight on at a bit of a distance, zoomed in) with your rear hatch fully open, so I can scratch up the overhang to try and avoid it from hitting the wing?
 
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No wing on mine. No worries there :D

So for me, I wanted a rub rail on the sides for two reasons:

1. To keep branches off the roof and potentially the glass
2. In case I had a "soft" flop (picture truck on a 45º)

Now on the rear, literally I just wanted something that stuck out just far enough so that I could grab onto and pull myself up. Being able to affix a ladder is gravy.

You mean out past the back of the rear door?

I was thinking of bringing out further back as well, for a couple reasons.

One, its easier to grab onto the rack and stand on the rear bumper, and two, it puts a replacable part out past the rear hatch, not that it gives it infinite protection, but for driving or sliding backwards into brush or small trees, it makes the first point of contact the rack instead of the rear hatch or the wing, it may save someone a dent or two.

I dont have the rear wing on mine, if you have one NLXTACY, what are the chances you could get a picture from the side (straight on at a bit of a distance, zoomed in) with your rear hatch fully open, so I can scratch up the overhang to try and avoid it from hitting the wing?
 
No wing on mine. No worries there :D

So for me, I wanted a rub rail on the sides for two reasons:

1. To keep branches off the roof and potentially the glass
2. In case I had a "soft" flop (picture truck on a 45º)

Now on the rear, literally I just wanted something that stuck out just far enough so that I could grab onto and pull myself up. Being able to affix a ladder is gravy.


Alright, Im looking at making a "rub rail" right now, though it will be there mostly to prevent the clamps from catching on things, but I think I can do it so you can grab on easily enough as well.

I think there's a sweet spot, where you can have enough rail to protect it, but not so much that its obtrusive or prevents you from mounting an awning later.

I also have to work around the gutter clamps, as long as the ones I ordered are strong enough, they will be what I design for, they should be great though, $62 for 8 clamps to the door :hillbilly:


I was thinking yesterday about cutouts for a hilift or shovel, in that they could slide through the rail and only a bit of handle or base would be protruding, but I think it would be hard to make it work properly now and is likely more work then benefit.
 

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I talked to Kevin today after work, it sounds like the real downfall of the rack is quantity.

In order for it not to be cost prohibitive, its gotta be ordered in some sort of quantity, (i.e. ten racks at a time).

He will help me with a proto type on his own time (yeah I dont want to steal his time, he's got his own projects) but in order for it to be feasible there has to be some quantity to it.

I think Im gonna still build a proto type, Im not sure I want the hassel or commitment to rounding up commitments for a group buy and then the liability if there is fitment issue. So far there's only been a couple peeps who seem interested.

Ill still post up a CAD file when Im done, but this may be destined to sink, or if anyone wants to get their own they have to be shell out the cash while others ponder it.

Poop Soup, well at least its the weekend! And Im gonna try making a white tail roast wrapped in bacon for dinner in a minute!
 

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