I've notice that some of you just mount the fairlead straight to the bumper without through bolting to the roller support holes in the bumper. Others through bolt the two verticle rollers as per the ARB instructions. I haven't read anything addressing the differences. Are there specific reasons to mount it one way as opposed to the other?
Roller fairlead mounting on ARB bumper
- Thread starter 619TOY
- Start date
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and while we're at that, I've been wondering which fairleads fit those holes and which don't. I'm assuming at least some Warn do since ARB advertises its compatibility with Warn winches. Other brands too? Which? The front to back distance there is not easily adjustable -at least if the vertical rollers protrude too much.
You can mount the roller to the bumper directly but the rollers will be a bit low for the 12000 and just ok for the 9000. If you take out the pins that hold the vertical rollers in and replace them with the 3/4"? bolts it will bolt to the ears that protrude from the front of the bumper. I used Nylock nuts and some very large washers so the rollers would still roll. Then you need to drill two holes to line up to the bottom winch mounting bolts and get some longer bolts to fit. If you are mounting a 9000 you need to make spacers to fit between the winch and the bumper so you don't crush the motor housing on the winch. The 12000 bolts right in. Makey sense?
- Thread starter
- #4
After checking out my options I decided to use the big through bolts provided by ARB. I couldn't see why anyone wouldn't. They provide more support to the top of the fairlead unit.
I also upgraded the hardware that mounts the winch to F911. I know it's overkill but my buddies at work quite frequently help me to make decisions concerning my rig. I definately think they look alot more cool.
I also used some triple wall heatshrink at the swage to cover the sharp wire ends.
I haven't wired it yet as I'm going to put the solenoids under the hood, out of sight. I think I'm going to mount the connector for the remote in one of my dash pop-outs but I haven't investigated that yet.
I also plan to make a cover out of aluminum for the top and have it as well as the fairlead body and roller through bolt heads powdercoated.
Here are a couple of pics. Sorry the one is so dark, it was afterdark when I finished tonight.
I also upgraded the hardware that mounts the winch to F911. I know it's overkill but my buddies at work quite frequently help me to make decisions concerning my rig. I definately think they look alot more cool.
I also used some triple wall heatshrink at the swage to cover the sharp wire ends.
I haven't wired it yet as I'm going to put the solenoids under the hood, out of sight. I think I'm going to mount the connector for the remote in one of my dash pop-outs but I haven't investigated that yet.
I also plan to make a cover out of aluminum for the top and have it as well as the fairlead body and roller through bolt heads powdercoated.
Here are a couple of pics. Sorry the one is so dark, it was afterdark when I finished tonight.
What winch do you have mounted in there? It looks like the rope is winding the wrong way. The PO of my rig had the 12000 mounted end for end and up side down so the clutch lever was on the bottom right and had the rope winding that way? Just curious.
- Thread starter
- #6
It's a 12,000 and the lever is on the top of the winch and on the pass. side. It does seem a little funny how the fairlead lines up with the cable. I read all the posts prior to the install and concluded this was normal.
I better unroll the rope and see if mine is correct then as it is the opposite of yours. Love this forum. Nice install by the way.
619Toy,
Suggestion: Consider reversing the vertical bolts so that the head is on the bottom and the nylock nut is on top. The reason is that if/when you whack the bolt on a rock you won't damage the bolt threads making removal difficult.
How did you get the heat shrink over the loop or did you unspool and thread it from the other end of the cable?
Did you do the thimble yourself or did it come on your winch cable?
-B-
Suggestion: Consider reversing the vertical bolts so that the head is on the bottom and the nylock nut is on top. The reason is that if/when you whack the bolt on a rock you won't damage the bolt threads making removal difficult.
How did you get the heat shrink over the loop or did you unspool and thread it from the other end of the cable?
Did you do the thimble yourself or did it come on your winch cable?
-B-
Take a look at the way FirstToy, CruiserDan, and others have done with the in-cabin winch controls. I copied their installs using a new "black box" winch controller that Christo is offering. The in-cabin controls would allow you to do a remote mount of the winch connector but you can put it somewhere on the front of the vehicle if you want.
-B-
- Thread starter
- #11
That's a great point but I think I'll just cut down the bolt when I get the head powdercoated, only because I think the head looks better on top. Thanks for the insight.
I just slipped the heatshrink over the eyelet with the help of a little dry silicone then removed the dry silicone with a little brake cleaner. That way the glue in the heatshrink will secure it tightly. This type of heatshrink shrinks at about a 3:1 ratio so it made it over the eyelet and still shrunk tight to the cable. Is the thimble the eyelet? In any case it is how it came out of the box.
Thats a great idea too. What would be really cool is a factory switch labeled for winch use. I'll check out Slee's site. If the "black box" just makes the wiring simpler, I can take care of that myself. If anyone can post a pic of their switch I'd really appreciate it.
The "black box" probably isn't on the Slee site and its purpose is to duplicate the remote winch wiring diagram that he has documented on his site.
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/images/winch.jpg
Here is a picture from the Slee Offroad site of an 80 antenna switch used as a winch controller.
The attached image below has my winch enable/disable switch the winch control switch and the Slee "black box" with control relays. The winch in/out switch is the same one that C-Dan and FirstToy used in their installations. It is mounted the same place that Christo mounts the antenna switch in the above image. The winch enable switch is mounted in the inboard vertical dash location where Christo has a fog light switch in the above image.
-B-
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Cable being loaded from on the bottom of the drum is actually a good idea. There is less torque placed on the truck frame when it pulls low because the pull is more straight (in-line) with the frame, not up high.
