Rodnry flush? (1 Viewer)
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From: "extreme_trans" Date: Tue Jun 22, 2004 5:53 pm Subject: Transmission Full Flush Instructions!
Hi Mitch and all other 3FE Groupies, Rodney here
This message was directed at Mitch because he asked me for my 2 cents worth.
Here is a full set of instructions to do an Automatic Transmission full flush and oil flow test all at the same time. I have done it different ways but the best way I have set out below:
*Remove the front drive shaft. *Undo the rear cooler line from the rear transmission union. *Slid a rubber hose over the cooler line and direct it into a bucket. *Either drain the transmission using the drain plug or service the transmission. *Refill the transmission with 1 and a half gallons of transmission oil (Synthetic Recommended). *Start the car in park and hold it at 2000Rpm for 60 seconds and turn off. *Measure the oil in the bucket to find out transmission flow. *Add another gallon into transmission. (Engine Off) *Restart car and let it just idle until the oil changes colour to a nice clean oil, you will need to ad some oil as you are doing this to keep it flowing. Then shut engine off. *Refit rear cooler line. *Refit front shaft. *Restart car and top up the transmission to correct level.
PRESTO! The easy way by far. Full flush and flow test all in one! Because the very end of the cooler line bend directly down this make everything so easy and removing the drive shaft just make it hassle free. Off to work CYA! Rodney
Hi Mitch and all other 3FE Groupies, Rodney here
This message was directed at Mitch because he asked me for my 2 cents worth.Here is a full set of instructions to do an Automatic Transmission full flush and oil flow test all at the same time. I have done it different ways but the best way I have set out below:
*Remove the front drive shaft. *Undo the rear cooler line from the rear transmission union. *Slid a rubber hose over the cooler line and direct it into a bucket. *Either drain the transmission using the drain plug or service the transmission. *Refill the transmission with 1 and a half gallons of transmission oil (Synthetic Recommended). *Start the car in park and hold it at 2000Rpm for 60 seconds and turn off. *Measure the oil in the bucket to find out transmission flow. *Add another gallon into transmission. (Engine Off) *Restart car and let it just idle until the oil changes colour to a nice clean oil, you will need to ad some oil as you are doing this to keep it flowing. Then shut engine off. *Refit rear cooler line. *Refit front shaft. *Restart car and top up the transmission to correct level.
PRESTO! The easy way by far. Full flush and flow test all in one! Because the very end of the cooler line bend directly down this make everything so easy and removing the drive shaft just make it hassle free. Off to work CYA! Rodney
euclid
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Also, check out the section called Automatic transmissions in the FAQ on the top of this page.
rod flush
Just wanted to add that there is no reason you need remove the driveshaft. It can make things a bit easier, but it is also a pain in the ass and makes things more complicated than they need to be. No real reason to do it. All brackets and bolts can be accessed from under the truck or from inside the truck. It's also slightly more involved than the above post makes it seem. There is a bracket that should be removed to gain clearance in the hardline. Oh yeah... use two wrenches to avoid twisting the hard lines and wear work clothes as it is a pretty messy job. Also, use pbblaster to loosen the line unions up. If the truck is rusty prepare to be very sore the next few days. You will be subjecting your body to unfamiliar positions and muscle stress, but it's a fun bit of maintenance.
Just wanted to add that there is no reason you need remove the driveshaft. It can make things a bit easier, but it is also a pain in the ass and makes things more complicated than they need to be. No real reason to do it. All brackets and bolts can be accessed from under the truck or from inside the truck. It's also slightly more involved than the above post makes it seem. There is a bracket that should be removed to gain clearance in the hardline. Oh yeah... use two wrenches to avoid twisting the hard lines and wear work clothes as it is a pretty messy job. Also, use pbblaster to loosen the line unions up. If the truck is rusty prepare to be very sore the next few days. You will be subjecting your body to unfamiliar positions and muscle stress, but it's a fun bit of maintenance.
I am only guessing but i think that came out of the 80 series tech, or he is talking about an 80 series, they have a centre diff. if you remove the front driveshaft you can run the auto in drive (or reverse) without the vehicle moving
like I said its only a guess, I know he says to do it in park but its the only thing that makes sense to me
Paul
like I said its only a guess, I know he says to do it in park but its the only thing that makes sense to me
Paul
oh and dont try it in a 60, it does NOT have a centre diff and it will drive
Paul
Paul
Yeah I know, I was just throwing ideas out there
Paul
Paul
I taped a funnel to the tube and filled'er up that way. Hard to keep up with the flow out of the cooler and into the bucket though.