Before installing a set of Rock Warrior wheels, I'm looking for insight on the best protection for the trd caps. Clear coat, ppf, etc? I want to help prolong the fading/damage that happens to the factory finish on the caps. Any insight or tips from others that have done this is appreciated!
Rock Warrior Center Cap - Protection Before Installation
- Thread starter m4tt
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$25 a can but this thing cures hard and as close to automotive grade as you can get without going to the body shop.
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- #3
$25 a can but this thing cures hard and as close to automotive grade as you can get without going to the body shop.
This looks like a great option.
Does this leave any streaking, beading, or blemishes? How much more “shiny” will the cap be with this coating?
The real question is... Where did you get fresh center caps?!?
They have different finishes. Just be aware that this product needs proper PPE and ventilation. Lots of great videos out there on how well this product works on lots of different materials for a great clearcoat.
Yeah gotta wear a mask and spray this outdoors, it’s got some deadly chemicals inside. However it cures very shiny and hard like automotive clearcoat from a body shop
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- #7
My worry with the 2K after looking further into it is how shiny the finished product is going to be. I'm trying to keep the look as "factory" as possible with added protection. I don't want the caps to have a super high gloss finished look.
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- #9
This is matte 2k clear is what I'm currently leaning toward. I'm still hoping someone has done this and has some input and how it held up over time. I've held onto this caps for a while and as we know replacing them is now impossible so I want it done correctly.
I'm also going to reach out to a couple local body shops to get their recommendations.
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Just install them and a couple of times a year wipe on or spray on some Boeshield T9. That will keep any corrosion away. Spraying actual clearcoat might result in fitment issues since they’re so tight fitting as-is and basically zero tolerance for adding more thickness.
T9 won’t change the look of the part, it’s not a permanent coating and can be removed with a solvent based cleaner if you choose. I would spray the entire face of the wheel while you’re at it. I don’t know how often you wash or detail your car and wheels but stuff takes zero effort to spray on and it’s dry to the touch the following day.
Think of it like waxing your car a few times a year except this stuff has real rust protection.
T9 won’t change the look of the part, it’s not a permanent coating and can be removed with a solvent based cleaner if you choose. I would spray the entire face of the wheel while you’re at it. I don’t know how often you wash or detail your car and wheels but stuff takes zero effort to spray on and it’s dry to the touch the following day.
Think of it like waxing your car a few times a year except this stuff has real rust protection.
You could always polish the old ones and inlay some testers enamel paint or auto paint, then clear that. see how it all comes out. like anything, its about the prep. Depth of clear and clarity is based on thickness and finishing.
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- #12
I’ll look into T9. That is probably a better solution than clear coating, anyone has success with this product on a similar project?
FWIW if anyone else is looking to do this in the future, I reached out to Spray Max (maker of 2K clear) and they strongly recommended not using their product for this job. Prep work for their product requires sanding and scuffing surface to ensure the product works.
Boeshield has been used for a very long time and is a well known great product.
Per spraying, yes everything always needs a scuff, the clear fills in the micro scratches. But as it is perhaps not the easiest, they recommended against.
Per spraying, yes everything always needs a scuff, the clear fills in the micro scratches. But as it is perhaps not the easiest, they recommended against.
