Rock Warrior 35’s or True 34”

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I’m waiting on the TJM Bumper , its ordered . Ben from Filthy called me back , I have spoke with him , he’s a wealth of knowledge.
I have not narrowed down any thing yet , Its crazy and driving me crazy on all the tire wheel combinations . Just reading everything on here what guys have done .
I have run aftermarket wheels in the past , I have a problem with putting Chinese wheels on my Japanese truck .
I am now looking at the RW wheels , new sticker shock price from my local dealer is 500 each . Then still have to buy the spacers .
With the TJM bumper I should not have any problems up front .
Wired thing Tundra swap pushes wheels out 1.75 . Wheel Spacers say spidertrax 1.25 .
Tundra swap give you no lift , just the ability to run a better CV angle and ability to run a higher lift .
I can see the wheel being out farther not contacting the KDDS or sway , I think it would still make contact with the rear inner fended and body needing cut back and welded .
I would think the same problem exist with spacers and RW wheels but a little less since your only going 1.25 , as said puts you around 24mm back spacing .
I have to let Ben at Filthy know what direction I go .
I am running the heavy 800 lb spring either way Tundra swap or Spacers and smaller tire .
If I do go RW wheels I will only need arms , axles and ends down the road and just do spacers and 285/75r17 or 285/70R17
The Kings are basically same length
I think you'll be pretty happy with the 275/80r17 Goodyear MTRs. Put those somewhere around 35mm effective offset and you're in position to have the least amount of rubbing issues.
 
Just talked to Ben at Filthy , he’s 14 to 20 weeks out on King orders ...Every one is ordering Kings or what ... LOL I just have to let him know my weight but that puts me in March before receiving my Kings .
Still would like to run a wider than 285 tire but be around 34” tire . Seems BFG do run smaller 35x12.5 is 34” tire . I also have not ruled out doing a 1” or 3/4 body lift .
I found previous post with pictures of bolt lengths , looks like you could get away with 1/2 inch spacers and retain the original body bolts for a little extra clearance .
I have made a few sets of aluminum spacers for a buddies 200 biggest issue is the radiator / fan drop and shifter linkage .
Doing a 1” or less might not be as much of a problem .
I may order a set of RW wheels Black Friday sale discount codes are starting to roll in .

70559D96-8520-4B74-995F-7DF7D91C296B.jpeg
 
I’m waiting on the TJM Bumper , its ordered . Ben from Filthy called me back , I have spoke with him , he’s a wealth of knowledge.
I have not narrowed down any thing yet , Its crazy and driving me crazy on all the tire wheel combinations . Just reading everything on here what guys have done .
I have run aftermarket wheels in the past , I have a problem with putting Chinese wheels on my Japanese truck .
I am now looking at the RW wheels , new sticker shock price from my local dealer is 500 each . Then still have to buy the spacers .
With the TJM bumper I should not have any problems up front .
Wired thing Tundra swap pushes wheels out 1.75 . Wheel Spacers say spidertrax 1.25 .
Tundra swap give you no lift , just the ability to run a better CV angle and ability to run a higher lift .
I can see the wheel being out farther not contacting the KDDS or sway , I think it would still make contact with the rear inner fended and body needing cut back and welded .
I would think the same problem exist with spacers and RW wheels but a little less since your only going 1.25 , as said puts you around 24mm back spacing .
I have to let Ben at Filthy know what direction I go .
I am running the heavy 800 lb spring either way Tundra swap or Spacers and smaller tire .
If I do go RW wheels I will only need arms , axles and ends down the road and just do spacers and 285/75r17 or 285/70R17
The Kings are basically same length
If you are looking at having to pay new retail $$ for Rock Warriors + spacers, I would take a serious look at the evo corse wheels.
 
When running a larger tire the Tire brand choice is key. Not all tires have the same profile. I found that Nittos have a stiffer side wall / blocky profile / and they work. coopers tires profile pooch out, like belly fat. I ran 35” STT PROs and they rubbed KDSS bar at full lock. a motorsport-tech 3/4” spacer was the right thickness spacer for rub free results along with the nitto trail grapplers. Been running nitto ridge grapplers for a few years now they work well too. Think about that if its not been mentioned yet.
 
I just ordered the Rock Warrior wheels ... I’ll run the spacer adapters , just have to narrow it down to the tire size and spacer , I seen the relocation brackets , Trail are Aluminum ... not keen on that , Anyone know if Slee version made of Steel ?
 
Might need to call them. From their photo it looks like steel to me.


That said I suspect aluminum is plenty strong for this use case.
 
I just wondering , Bolting the Aluminum to the steel frame is fine , I just have a hard time with a bar under that amount of load being bolted to threaded 6061 aluminum , I could see if there were steel washer backed thread inserts ... it just my nature to do over kill . Just can’t put those aluminum and feel comfortable , I would make my own if I had to .
Any one has the Slee version I would liked to know if they are Steel.
 
In regards to the KDSS relocation, it does put the sway bar end link at some extreme angle that will prematurely destroy the bushing. I think it was Atwalz that pioneered this, but putting mounting the end link outside of the LCA bracket seems to help this issue. Stolen pic from another thread

1605894003970.png
 
In regards to the KDSS relocation, it does put the sway bar end link at some extreme angle that will prematurely destroy the bushing. I think it was Atwalz that pioneered this, but putting mounting the end link outside of the LCA bracket seems to help this issue. Stolen pic from another thread

View attachment 2501289
That would be my pioneering . 👍
 
I stand corrected. Great stuff @Willy beamin ! This needs to be socialized more so more LCs can fit some big ones.
 
Thank you and I agree. It works well and has for years and many rough trails. I put the info on here a few years ago just not on its own thread. It removes the stress that the KDSS relo bracket introduces to the sway bar end links. Its really simple.
 
In regards to the KDSS relocation, it does put the sway bar end link at some extreme angle that will prematurely destroy the bushing. I think it was Atwalz that pioneered this, but putting mounting the end link outside of the LCA bracket seems to help this issue. Stolen pic from another thread

View attachment 2501289
As it is the increased travel from some front suspension setups makes the link angle extreme already. The bushings don’t look happy at full droop with my kings, and the bar is in the stock location. It is merely the sway bar ends swinging further forward in their downward arc. But, it’s only at full droop. Not 100% of the time.
 
Any one just cut down a set of BDS Tundra links look a lot beefier than the stock LC KDDS links .Or someone could machine a relocation mount that fits inside the factory arm and moves up and forward and up ... Humm I have a full machine shop .
 
Any one just cut down a set of BDS Tundra links look a lot beefier than the stock LC KDDS links .Or someone could machine a relocation mount that fits inside the factory arm and moves up and forward and up ... Humm I have a full machine shop .
I’m not familiar with the BDS links but our driver’s side KDSS link is different than the passenger. The upper end has a protruding sleeve through a rubber bushing that fits into a spot on the KDSS arm, I’m assuming to help stabilize that section. Whereas the passenger side upper end is a simple ball joint.
 
Any one just cut down a set of BDS Tundra links look a lot beefier than the stock LC KDDS links .Or someone could machine a relocation mount that fits inside the factory arm and moves up and forward and up ... Humm I have a full machine shop .
IIRC there's a part # for the bushings, which can be pressed in separately. If you're just replacing with stock I'd just buy new end links, but if you wanted to fab your own you can get the bushings.

If someone created a set of offset links I'd buy 'em. I don't have measurements but you're basically looking at "bending" the existing link and lengthening it
 

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