Road Trip in 200 with potential ice/snow. Which tires/chains? (1 Viewer)

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sdnative

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Sorry if this question or similar has already been answered, but I am getting ready to take a 2000+ mile trip soon through some potential icy/snowy areas and would like the forum's opinion on preferred tire.

I am heading up from Southern CA to Northern CA and beyond, either up the 395 on the eastern side of the Sierras (Mammoth, Lake Tahoe, etc) or up the western side (passing through/stopping in Yosemite, etc). From what I understand, there is the potential to encounter quite a bit of snow and potentially icy/snowy roads. We will be staying on the road for the most part, but may venture off onto some mild dirt roads occasionally to explore.

I have two sets of wheels/tires to choose from: Toyo OC AT3 in LT275/70R18 or Michelin LTX Trail in P265/70R18. I feel the Michelins would offer the best ride and a bit better MPGs for most of the drive, but not sure how they would perform if things get bad. I have experience with the Toyos in rougher off-road conditions, but no experience with them in snow/ice, and I would probably take a 2-3 MPG hit. I was planning on running the Michelins.

I also want to (may be required to?) carry chains for the rear wheels. I have two sets of traditional link-type chains, SCC Quik Grip QG3229 DH and RUD 2228. I think either of these will fit either set of wheels. Alternately I am considering picking up a set of cable style chains (QCC Super-Z8 SZ462) for the weight savings.

Thoughts/opinions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
The Sierras and Tahoe are my winter playground and arguably why I got into Land Cruisers to begin with. After 30 years of visiting these areas every winter, I have some idea of how the areas work. These regions are frequented by city folk that have no appreciation or complete disregard for weather (including my younger self). Pony car on bald summer tires - good enough! Because of that, they follow more stringent rules... to help us from ourselves.

Here's Caltrans chain controls rules:
  • Requirement 1 (R-1): Chains are required on all vehicles except passenger vehicles and light-duty trucks under 6,000 pounds gross weight and equipped with snow tires on at least two drive wheels. Chains must be carried by vehicles using snow tires. All vehicles towing trailers must have chains on one drive axle. Trailers with brakes must have chains on at least one axle.
  • Requirement 2 (R2): Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles except four-wheel/all-wheel drive vehicles with snow-tread tires on all four wheels.
    NOTE: (Four-wheel/all-wheel drive vehicles must carry traction devices in chain control areas.)
  • Requirement 3 (R3): Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles, no exceptions.

Generally you'll see R1 and R2 controls in winter weather. When the weather gets serious, it's R3 and nothing is getting through checkpoints, so hopefully (or not?) you're already into the region. Otherwise it's a fight for the minimal hotel/motel accommodations to wait it out, or the slog home.

The goal with the 200-series is to carry chains, so they can wave you through, but never use them. I've never used mine, because if it's serious enough, it's an R3 shutdown condition.

Since we have 4WD, the additional requirement to get waved through in R1 and R2 states is snow tires. Defined as tires with M+S designation, or better snow flake 3-peak stamped tires. Checkpoints have never bothered to stare at my tires and will pretty much instantly wave me through. Maybe a verbal ask if I'm carrying chains. Plenty of times I've said yes, and I don't even have them.

To your specific questions, both tires will do fine. I think the Toyo's have the advantage with the mountain snow flake rating that the Michelin's don't have? I don't know that either will make or break this trip, but I specifically got the Toyo AT3s for their winter performance. It's one of the few tires in their portforlio to self rate as a 5.0 in winter handling.

Last tip is that these regions can get really snarled up. Leave early. Way early if you can to get through the checkpoints before any frustrating lines. If you go early enough, the checkpoints may not even be active.
 
Much appreciated. That has been my experience for chain checkpoints as well, albeit in more local mountains. Last time I went through a checkpoint, the officer looked at my LC (100 series at the time) and said "do they even make these in 2WD?". I said nope and he waved me by :cool:

I was considering the Z8 cables as they are much lighter and I am hoping (planning?) that I don't have to use them. The other sets are 40+ lbs per axle.

The Michelins don't have the 3PMSF symbol, but they do have the maple leaf. Maybe that is comparable?
 
We've had good luck with Nokia/Nokian, if you want a dedicated snow tire. Studded are amazing if you encounter icy conditions, but they're also loud on dry roads.
 
Are y’all locking your center diff in snow? Going to Colorado soon and wondering if it’s needed in 1”-5” snow covered roads at low speed.
 
We've had good luck with Nokia/Nokian, if you want a dedicated snow tire. Studded are amazing if you encounter icy conditions, but they're also loud on dry roads.

Thanks but I am not interested in getting snow tires for this trip.
 
Are y’all locking your center diff in snow? Going to Colorado soon and wondering if it’s needed in 1”-5” snow covered roads at low speed.

It'll depend on situation. Generally as I understand it, no to locking center diff. 4WD > 4x4. You'll want to leave the center torsion in play as it allows each tire to best track against the road and not force slip between the front and rear axle in turns. This also allows stability and atrac to work their magic.

In steep climbs, off-road, or deep snow, that may call for locking the center diff.

I'm happy to be corrected by folks that actually live in snow regions.
 
Are y’all locking your center diff in snow? Going to Colorado soon and wondering if it’s needed in 1”-5” snow covered roads at low speed.

In my GX460 I would regularly lock the center diff in snow and it made a noticeably difference, even with snow tires. However, I've only occasionally locked the center diff in my 200 in snow without snow tires. Despite them both being Torsen LSD in the center there is a noticeable advantage to the 200.
 
Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs if you want a tire you can run all year round but can actually handle the snow. I also love the Falken Wildpeak AT3W (have them on my 80 series right now).

When it comes to chains, the DOT closes most mountain roads in the snow before it ever reaches R3 requiring snow chains on all vehicles no exceptions. I’ve never had chains and never ever want to use them. If you have a good enough set of tires with the 3 Peak rating or dedicated snow tires and 4WD, you’ll be totally fine. If you’re putting chains on a land cruiser, it’s probably pretty nasty out and best to wait out the storm.

I take i80 up to the mountains from the Bay Area every weekend in the winter to ski. Best advice is to take it slow and leave early. You won’t have much traffic on 395 but as soon as you hit 89 or go anywhere near Lake Tahoe, it will be a nightmare with any significant snowfall. Good luck, it’s a beautiful area!
 
It doesn't sound like you drive in snow and ice very much? So Cal doesn't typically experience these conditions...which is why I'd rather be there right now! Here in Idaho...our roads have been ice skating rinks for the past several weeks. And no end in sight. Which is why we run dedicated winters on our 200 and another vehicle. In fact, I won't even drive my truck right now even though it's 4x4 with KO2s. Downright sketchy. That being said, a dedicated snow tire makes a significant and measurable difference when it comes to control and stopping. Especially stopping which is most important metric. I've been up and over Teton Pass in inclement weather and without a dedicated winter tire, forget about it. If this were my scenario and I was embarking on a road trip with my family and I was confident road conditions could likely warrant a winter tire for extended periods, for me it's a no brainer. Just get a set Nokian Hakka R3 SUVs or Blizzak DMV2s. I priced a set of DMV2s at my Costco...$880 mounted and balanced (they're running a special). Well worth it IMO. And if you'll never use them again, sell them. But they'll be worth their weight in gold if you really need them. Around here it's easy to sell good winter tires. Just my opinion. Peace of mind is worth <$1000 in my world. Drive safe.

Guy
 
Assuming both sets of tires have plenty of tread left, for the given trip I'd use the Toyo OC AT3, without any doubt. An A/T tire with the winter snowflake rating will be significantly better in the snow than an all season without the winter snowflake. That said, it still won't be a full-on winter tire, so keep that in mind. I'll add that I've ran a Falken AT3W (similar to your Toyo OC AT3) all winter a few years ago, and it did fine (not amazing) in 99% of the conditions. I did go back to a proper winter tire after that year, though.

Travel at a speed you feel comfortable and relaxed at (if you're white knuckling and your heart beat is elevated, you're going too fast), keep the tire pressure a tad lower than you would normally, and don't overthink it.
 
Are y’all locking your center diff in snow? Going to Colorado soon and wondering if it’s needed in 1”-5” snow covered roads at low speed.

Don't lock the center diff unless you specifically need to, like maybe a super steep hill or if you're somehow stuck. It won't be good for your drivetrain if you run it on dry pavement between sections of snow (likely in Colorado). Also it disables VSC which is going to be helpful especially if you're not used to driving in snow. A 200 with proper tires will do absolutely fine in 1-5 inches of snow with nothing more than careful driving.
 
All good input and appreciated. I'm not going anywhere where there won't be other vehicles going as well. If road conditions get too bad I am not above turning back and playing it safe.
 
Are y’all locking your center diff in snow? Going to Colorado soon and wondering if it’s needed in 1”-5” snow covered roads at low speed.

Nope. Locking the centre diff essentially makes your 4WD/AWD a 4x4, which is inferior on snow-covered roads. You'll want to lock the centre diff on significant off road obstacles, but not on pavement.
 

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