RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper

[Willy beamin]

Here you go. You be the judge.

 

[ohsix]

Here you go. You be the judge.

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Looks good. If I mounted my bumper 1" further back, I think they would hit the body. Looks like they would clear perfectly right now.

Also, my bumper looks like the wings stick out further than yours. Either my bumper is wider of vehicle is more narrow.

Also, do the bottom of your wings get beat up with rocks? I'm a little worried that mine will have the paint removed quickly without some kind of protective film or mud flaps. I'm not terribly worried about the paint, I just don't want the bumper to rust.

 

[linuxgod]

I searched the internet far and wide for those. If you know what they're called, you would be a giant step ahead. All I could find were people looking for the same thing.

My ARB front bumper came with a camera relocate kit. I opened it and thought "awesome a camera extension cord complete with the Toyota adapters." I got to that part and you actually have to pull the pins out of the Toyota adapter and plug them into ARB's adapter. Apparently ARB couldn't find those connections either.

Looks like 90980-12495 and 90980-12A59 are either side? Or maybe there are 2 part #s for different use? These are about $6 each online.

WIRING & CLAMP[CONNECTOR ILLUST NO.11 OF12(0709- ) ] TOYOTA LAND CRUISER [URJ200] (NORTH AMERICA)

If someone could confirm the connector that would be awesome. Looks like this is the same for the front camera as well, which might be useful for people doing a camera relocation with their front bumper:

ARB's method isn't unreasonable though. I'd prefer that to cutting and splicing myself.

 

[grinchy]

I do love plug and play, I wonder if those connectors are weather rated.

my RLC bumper finished fab last night, just sent James a note on the wheel well cover. I like it.

 

[ohsix]

Here's a picture of it. The black part plugs into the camera.

 

[RET2]

I'm having a difficult time removing the rear lower trim panel to gain access to the wires that come down from the rear hatch. Can anyone shed some light on the procedure? Thx

 

[ohsix]

The plastic panels on the tailgate or the headliner?

The plastic panels on the tailgate, you just pull. Mine were held on entirely by plastic clips. The plastic panels that go on the side of the window have plastic clips that will stay in the metal. You need to take those out of the metal tailgate and put them back on the plastic trim panels before reinstalling.

 

[RET2]

I'm trying to remove the side panel plastic to gain access to the wires that come don from hatch. Hoping to splice into the 4 wires to move my camera. The panel goes from rear hatch to rear door (around wheel well)

 

[ohsix]

I don’t know. I didn’t remove that panel. I just spliced at the camera then ran them above the headliner and down the right side d-pillar to the jack stowage area. Above the headliner and down the d-pillar were accessed by removing the tailgate weather stripping.

 

[linuxgod]

Here's a picture of it. The black part plugs into the camera.

@ohsix I'm more curious if you popped them apart what the inside of the connectors looks like, since that's what the parts diagram showed.

I realize you may be past that point but maybe @grinchy or someone else planning this mod will snap a photo, or just order the connects for $12 and let us know if they work

@grinchy, I seriously doubt those are weather-rated. I made DT2/weatherpack connectors for my light bars and these just look like standard interior-type plugs and harnesses. If they're exposed I'd highly recommend sealing and shrinking the connection (and making sure the wires are wrapped since they're likely not UV-stable).

 

[Willy beamin]

I'm trying to remove the side panel plastic to gain access to the wires that come don from hatch. Hoping to splice into the 4 wires to move my camera. The panel goes from rear hatch to rear door (around wheel well)

Just pull. The snaps will
Let loose. Or pry, if thats you feel
Safer, with a plastic door trim tool. Ive had all the rear hatch plastics off and rear cargo pannels kida off before. Some of the stubborn plastic snap connections stay in place and some come
Off with the pannel. No biggie just put them back on and itll snap back together once your finished. The rear hatch omes are delicate so go slow and try not to bend them out of form. Hope
I answered the correct question for
You

 

[grinchy]

Emailed with James, he's not wild about the riveting on. The wheel well piece probably has to be added after the main bumper for fitment reasons. He's going to think on it.

@linuxgod Probably will just solder and shrink. I have some marine shrink left over from an ebike project, it'll to the trick, and I already bought a 6x trailer wiring connector to use as the quick disconnect.

I've got to figure out what to do with the camera when the swingarm isn't on. Which may be a majority of the time.

 

[ohsix]

I've got to figure out what to do with the camera when the swingarm isn't on. Which may be a majority of the time.

Maybe mount it to the rear wing/spoiler? I think I've seen where someone did that on mud.

I don't anticipate taking my swingarm off. I've already mounted the spare to it 3 times to check fit. Hopefully the 4th time will be the last.

 

[TexAZ]

I'm trying to remove the side panel plastic to gain access to the wires that come don from hatch. Hoping to splice into the 4 wires to move my camera. The panel goes from rear hatch to rear door (around wheel well)

Ret2, are you talking about the plastic side panel that houses the sub and armrest?
that panel has 2 or 3 screws that have to be removed first, then gently pry off the 4 million plastic Christmas trees.
one screw is hidden behind the cargo net hook. I can't remember where the 2nd one was.....too many ago...

 

[RET2]

Thanks guys, mission accomplished. just need to put tupperware back in place. Direct burial sprinkler wire works great and so does cat 5 cable but not as weather proof. BTW my '14 only uses 4 wires.

 

[GeorgeN]

After countless questions on this forum I thought I would share my experience with the RLC bumper:
- I like the final product with some exceptions
- it was quite painful to install -I’m not skilled but my friend is and it wasn’t easy, it took as around 8 hrs total over two days and we had some help to lift and hang it
- it’s hard to tell the proper orientation of the brackets (the two rear ones)
- we had to grind into the welds of the frame, otherwise there was no chance to install it
- had to do more grinding to add the Rigid light, the small bump where the cable goes into the light prevented the mounting
- the canister holder does not fit, I guess I need to try to bring the bumper further out back to make room but I was too tired to try to relocate
- the hardware that comes with it feels a bit underdimensioned - I went and bout 4 bolts 5/8 6” at the advice posted earlier here. I couldn’t use them, they were too long, so I went to Ace hardware and got two bolts grade 8 around 5” long to secure the rear brackets. The bolt goes in the bracket in he first picture
- I don’t have a solution for the wing caps, at least for the moment
- overall cost was around $2000 including shipping (fedex charged me more because the declared weight was Less than the actual), painting around $350. Plus I owe my friend an endless supply of beer, there was no way I could have done this without his help
- lastely I’m in Orange County if anyone wants to check out the bumper before ordering one

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[GeorgeN]

A few additional pictures

 

[GeorgeN]

I forgot to mention cutting the plastic trim was a pain, I tried a dremel but I think I didn’t have the right attachment, a small grinder and a utility knife. In the end I had to combine all 3 to get a so/so result.

 

[indycole]

The paint matching looks great! Well done!

 

[TexAZ]

I love the color match.
Looks like it took some effort to install, but the end result was worth it.
Great job.