Rewiring, Help trying to get the gauges working

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Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Threads
6
Messages
22
Hi,

I am at the moment rewiring my 1966 landcruiser

I have got the high beam, indicators, speedo all working

I can not get the amp meter working even when I have the engine running ?

Can anyone help me ?

Also the fuel gauge, temp gauge and oil gauge needles only move when they are hooked up and I put the test light on them

Doese this mean that they are going to work ?

Could this be and earth problem ?

Thankyou ........ Michael
 
very common that the amp meter is bypassed on these trucks, do you have the two white heavy gauge wires going to the amp meter? Also the gauges sweep backwards and it can take a minute or two for them to register accurately, hth! and never forget how important clean grounds are!
 
Thanks guys for your reply

My landcruiser has a 1981 2F engine and I have used the alternator from a F engine with a external voltage regulator

I will have to check the alternator and voltage regulator

The amp meter neddle does sweep back depending on how I have the wire connected up ( + & - )

Thanks ....... Michael
 
Hi,

All gauges are working properly now

I am not sure if the amp gauge is reading right

The battery is putting out roughly 12.6volts and goes up when the revs go higher, the same deal with the voltage regulator

So I now no the battery and voltage regulator are good to go

The amp meter gauge on the other hand, when the landcruiser is running the gauge goes to maximum voltage reading 50+

Is this right

Thankyou ......... Michael
 
It's only right if the battery really needs a charge. It should go down when nothing is on to a little bit to the positive side of 0. If the voltage regulator is stuck on and it's full fielding the alternator then the gauge is reading correctly. Put a voltmeter on the battery. It should be less than 14.5v.
 
Back from the dead and reading some threads...

Are you using a later model gauge cluster with the 50 AMP amp meter? That amp meter is designed to use an external shunt that is built into the wiring harness in later trucks. You may have fried the meter by running current of that level through it. :eek:

The 30 amp amp meter is designed to handle the current load of a 1F alternator setup directly with no external shunt needed (it's built in to the meter).
 
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