Retrofit Power Liftgate

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Oct 8, 2008
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Has anyone added a retrofit power liftgate? I love my 2014 and I don't see a need to upgrade, but I'd like to add a powered liftgate.

I saw this recent article for a 4runner: Autoease Electric Powered Liftgate Review & Install for 5th Gen 4Runner

And the company lists a kit for a landcruiser here: Power operated tailgate lift assisting system TL105 – Autoease

I haven't reached out to the company yet, nor have I contacted the author of the 4runner story. It sounds like a reasonable kit, although if anyone has done this install I'd love to connect with you.
 
Watching this with interest.
 
You could do it with oem parts as well, though I bet it would be pretty costly.

I have a bumper mounted spare and have my power lift gate turned off
 
Could someone with power liftgate post detailed pictures of the mechanism so we know what we are up against?
 
The local dealer's tech counter sent me this list of programmable features for my 2014 LX.

According to #44 on this list, it seems that power operation of the liftgate can be programmed by the dealer.
 

Attachments

I guess I just assumed OP was asking about a landcruiser but.. maybe not?
 
Update- I have a kit on the way.

From looking around at other forums, the installation instructions aren't that well documented. However- it's pretty straight forward. Connect the new supports and plug the wires into the control box. It looks like it's all plug and play with the hard part associated with running wires. I'll be sure to take lots of photos and we'll see what happens.

My biggest question is whether or not the box will interface with the Can bus properly. There's a video (by the manufacturer) of the unit installed on another land cruiser, so I'm optimistic. My plan is to connect all the parts to the box to confirm the can bus compatibility. A triple click of the unlock button on both the remote or the car unlock is supposed to open / close the door, so that will limit the requirement to run a wire back to front other than to have a dedicated open/close button (which I would want...eventually).

I suspect I'll be able to plug in the box to the CAN bus junction in the rear quarter panel- time will tell. Now I just need to find a hot wire in either quarter panel which I suspect won't be too hard. If I'm extra lucky, wire taps will be an option for both CAN bus and power connections, but a soldered connection wont' be too challenging if it's necessary.

If anyone has any suggestions or an always on power source please let me know.
 
Having just gone from a '16 without power tailgate to a '19 with one, this is probably the last modification that I would spend any time doing. The power tailgate is so slow that I gave up trying to use it after 24 hours and turned it off.
 
Different strokes I suppose. No big deal if it doesn't work for you :)

Kit arrived yesterday- very fast shipping. I think the install is going to be different that some of the installs I've seen on youtube and different from the write-up on the 4runner installation.

The good news is that this looks like a pretty straight forward install (famous last words...). Parts appear to be good quality. The power adapter is a simple add a fuse kit. That's the good news. I think I'm missing the right connector between the ECU and the dash panel button, but that's easily rectified.

The install appears to require replacing the rear gate latch with a new motorized latch. I don't love this idea, but it looks like a simple drop into the existing holes and the part is nice and heavy which inspires confidence. There's also a connection for the existing rear gate button (connector looks the same- time will tell). This install also doesn't connect to the CAN bus- it connects to the lock/unlock signal wire. I assume the new power lift gate ECU via that signal wire will control the lock/unlock on the rear gate. Per the manual, a triple unlock of the factory remote will open/close the lift gate which is fantastic.

I'm hoping the ECU has some sort of sensor to keep the gate from opening when the car is in motion but we'll see. With young kids, that's probably a requirement for installation in my book. I also plan to add an interior switch for the rear gate, but we'll see what happens.

Installation is going to take me a few weeks, but I'll report back here with info. The manual specifically says you can't bench test the unit which I don't like. That means I have to install the struts and wiring it into the car, but I anticipate testing all the pieces before going to the trouble of fishing wires to the front.
 
Finally following up on this post. It took a while first due to my personal schedule, then because of Chinese New Year / corona virus delaying the manufacturer getting back to work.

The good news- it works. I’m going to live with it for a few weeks before I make a final call, but I’m pretty pleased at this point. Installation support via email from Tao (sales manager) was very good.

The bad news (which is minor now) is that the kit required some minor modifications to one of the connectors. I did the trouble shooting and trial/error so it should be very easy for the next person to install the kit without much difficulty.

Install will require some wire taps and some butt connectors, but the hardest part for the next person will be running the wires from the front to the back.

Full install documentation is coming.
 
Perhaps a little late for OP but enjoy:



I’m debating whether I should make the dive or just stick with the non-powered lift gate I have on my 16’
 
Did you ever do the full install documentation?
I never did do a full install documentation, but I’m contemplating pulling the system out.

My truck has developed a weird problem- the front passenger door lock stopped working, and if I unlock the truck with key in my pocket, the truck I unlocks multiple times. I don’t know if the autoease unit is the root cause of the problem- I’ve been living with the limitation for a while due to work/ house remodel. I’ll probably replace the lock unit in the front passenger door and see if that solves the problem.

I love having the power gate. I think the rear door doesn’t open quite as far (maybe an inch lower?), but it’s great to open/close from the drivers seat.

Send me a PM and I can text photos of the install. It was pretty easy.

edit- swapping out the little motor in the door lock was a piece of cake job. That solved the problem.
 
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Thought I would drop a little info into this thread that might help. Frankly, I suspect the video above will be more help than anything I could write, but perhaps this will help resolve a few things. I went back and I'm a little disappointed with the photos that I took

The system in a nutshell- the autoease system replaces the factory latch altogether. It communicates the open/closed status the same as the factory latch, but other that that it's an independent system.

The ECU is below where I mounted it in the lift gate. The speaker on the left side of the image is the passenger side rear speaker.

IMG_1819 (1).jpeg



So- a quick tour of the system- Bottom Left and Bottom right- wires that go to the lift structs. These were direct drop in to the factory lift struts. You have to remove (my choice) or at modify a factory trim piece. @Eric Sarjeant set me up with the rubber grommet he uses to get the wire inside the gate. I don't have a photo right now- I'll have to take one and post it separately. I don't have the part number, but it was a ford product.

Top Right- power A/C- this wire runs to the front of the truck and uses a piggy back factory compatible fuse holder, and it runs the wire up to the dash mounted button. Running this wire from the body of the truck through the rubber boot into the lift gate was a challenge. I found some info here on mud about running wires through the boot and it was helpful- I disconnected the boot, ran the wire, then reconnected it. Sorry I don't have the link, but the info is here somewhere. Note that little yellow wire- we'll talk about that again shortly.

Top Left is the lock- the connectors all work with the factory wiring harness. The autoease unit will plug into the factory latch button and it works / feels OEM. The system comes with button to be drilled into the lift gate, but I used a toyota lift gate switch and wired it into the same two connectors (and the main power for the switch LED).

Bottom center is the latch motor. The factory electric latch is removed and replaced with the autoease unit. I was certainly concerned about swapping out toyota engineering, but the latch has worked well.

Overall the install was fairly straight forward, but definitely a stretch for me. The most nerve racking part was drilling a hole for the lift gate button, but I had the wiring working before I did anything that wasn't reversible.


A few more details:

The Yellow Wire:
This was probably the most concerning part of the project for me. The power wire is fished front to back. It's fairly straight forward, particularly with info on MUD on how to run the wire. That part is really easy if a little frustrating with the plastic clips. However, the autoease system requires a signal from the lock wire on the truck. Enter the yellow wire. The yellow wire has to be routed to the B pillar of the truck. Accessing the wire wasn't easy; had to pull off trim pieces and pull back a wiring loom, but that eventually exposed the connector below. Looking at the wiring diagram of the truck, the connector matched and the location of the wire matched, but the color of the wire was different on my 2014. See a snip from the wiring diagram. The JK1 connector pin out (not attached unfortunately) matched the connector in the truck. Using a wire tap (not included with the kit), I decided to give it a go- and it worked perfectly. I was definitely nervous here, but thought I would give it a try. I'm not an expert; YMMV. I then tidied up the wiring and was good to go.

IMG_1800.jpeg


Screen Shot 2021-08-16 at 3.55.58 PM.png





As noted in a prior post, there was a wiring issue. Initially, the exterior gate button did not work. It turned out to be a minor wiring harness change. Attached is the image AutoEase sent me. the top right is part of the auto ease harness. Their instruction was to disconnect the connect the blue wire (the lock control wire in the image below) and connect it to the middle wire on the connector. A quick crimp with a butt connector and I was in tall cotton. This certainly wasn't confidence inspiring, but it was a pretty simple change and the change worked immediately.

lock mod.jpg



Link to the product: Power operated tailgate lift assisting system TL105 – Autoease - http://www.che1.com/product/tl105-electric-tailgate-lift-assist-system/

Yes- the company does use affiliate pricing/referrals to help market their products. No, that's not an affiliate link.
 
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@Squirrel

Thank you for creating this post. I am about to tackle a similar kit offered by EC Off Road and I think the information provided will be helpful and the video added by @EnnK will be useful.

The directions for the eEC kit are a bit different but enough similarities to be useful.
 

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