Retainer/rear main seal leak (1 Viewer)

[Rookie2]

This is a follow-up question to a previous post. I've got a slow oil leak coming from the retainer arch or rear main seal. For those of you that have gone through this, any ideas on what I can expect as far as the progression of this issue. In otherwords will it progress slowly or am I living on borrowed time??

I'm currently in the research process on figuring out how to drop the tranny, but I don't know if this a bigger deal that I need to be approaching with a little more haste.

Thanks for any feedback.
R2

 

[robbie]

Hello R2, I would look again at this leak. Most of these are the oil pan mating to the arch. Look real close at the seal meeting the crank and see if it is spining the oil around. If it is just leaking off the arch area, then it is the oil pan. To R&R both pans and put new FPIG in to seal the pan might take most people a long day. I do it in about 6 hrs. It is alot easier then pulling the tranny to replace the seal. later Robbie

 

[Rookie2]

Thanks Robbie.

I will look at it some more. Seems like the prodominent opinion is more that likely it is the retainer arch seal. When I was discussing this on the previous post, it was mentioned would need to lift the engine a couple inches to get the #2 oil pan out. I figured by the time I rigged up something to lift the motor, I might as well drop the tranny and hit the arch and main seal at the same time. But maybe I've under estimated the pulling the tranny part. I assume you also had to lift the motor when you resealed you pans??

Thanks again for your input.
R2

 

[landtoy80]

R2, remove the hood and find a tree or use a rafter in the gaurage or rent a engine hoist. Let me know how it goes as I have a leaking oil pan that need to be fixed.

 

[Beowulf]

FYI, C-Dan didn't remove his hood when he removed both oil pans.

-B-

 

[Rookie2]

Yeh, I'm going to measure everything up this weekend and make sure I set it up so I won't have to remove the hood. I've got some 2x12's laying around that I can frame across the top of the motor at the front engine eye hook and rig up a plate and threaded rod with hook to screw jack the front of the engine up. Looks like two 2x12's will safely support 2600 pounds at the center of an 8 foot span. Any guestimate on how much the motor and tranny weigh?

I guess I would want/need to have the vehicle fairly level when jacking the motor up, i.e. front "and" rear on jacks. See any problems/concerns with this approach?

Thanks
R2

 

[landtoy80]

I would think it would be UNSAFE to be on jack stands and jack/lift motor.
If you lifted to much off the front end, the vehicle might fall off and kill.
I would get a pair of ramps and put the front end on the ramp and jack stands on the rear.
FLASH BACK
This is how I killed the rear diff actuator, I drove off the ramps with the rear on jack stands :'( :whoops:

 

[IdahoDoug]

I'm no expert, but I don't think an unsupported 8 foot span of 2X12's is good for 2600lbs. Especially if it turns into a shock load (something slips). I'd rent an engine puller for a day - you're going to have your hands and arms under that engine and between it and cross members. Even with the engine puller, I'd use wood chunks to brace the engine up before trusting things. I've seen the amazing carnage that heavy stuff inflicts when it only falls a couple inches and I'd hate to have you typing one handed here on the list, ya know?

DougM

 

[landtoy80]

Removing the hood is not a big job if you have help. I removed the hood on the 60 by my self. I wouldn't trust wood if I was under the motor!

 

[cruiserdan]

[quote author=IdahoDoug link=board=2;threadid=10661;start=msg97397#msg97397 date=1075589989] I'd hate to have you typing one handed here on the list, ya know?

DougM
[/quote]


Nice shot Doug