Restoring 1983 FJ40 Esmeralda in Colombia comments needed

[CHAS404]

now u guys got me going nuts over wheelwells. but it is important thanks.





2nd one is a 1983 also that I looked at to buy.

 

[CHAS404]

i noticed Colombian ones dont have rear side reflectors. should I add?

 

[CHAS404]

ok. so we begin. the only rust you see is the two front floor boards. the rear sill had some too underneath. not the rear pan but we replace anyhow due to small dents etc from use.

the body man will use his judgment to replace the 2 front floorboards with new factory style parts as needed.

i will set up a photobucket account but it is late and I wanted to post something.

This is fun.







thanks to all for comments and suggestions i am aiming to convert this to an american spec FJ40 and hope to keep as original style as possible.

 

[CHAS404]

further questions...

1. i am doing twin buckets with headrests in original grey. door cards original style grey.
2. i think i decided to do the OEM style bar afterall also in grey and do the single side seats in grey
3. should i put side reflectors on? USA had.
4. need to confirm if cut rear fenders (they say no)
5. The dash gauges are colombian style in KM thinking of changing to USA miles unit . total mileage on vehicle are unknown odometer stopped working. this is a high miles truck but well maintained and soon be completely restored. motor is strong. I think it had over 500,000 km on it or 200k to 300k miles or more. I have no problem disclosing that just wondering if a 'xxx miles from restoration' make sense along with a working odometer. this is tricky obviously comments please.
6. need usa style oem antennae
7. do i do vintage air or do i source the the heater and either nippodenso or CCOT AC or maybe just leave it alone
8. center console with built in rear heat probably way impossible to find now. may do the plastic basic one or a tuffy box.
9. i need seatbelts all around cant find OEM but found similar in grey
10. getting OEM emblems and replacing front blinkers and all the mirrors with OEM new as needed.
11. i guess SS bolts for show.or at worst get the originals dipped in zinc/cadmium. have not decided.

 

[CHAS404]

mechanically motor is strong. plan to paint it once removed. all under hood items that show wear will be replaced. going for a CLEAN under hood look.

plan to rebuilt the trans. performed fine for 3 hr drive time but it will be out of the truck may as well. maybe a new clutch doubt it needs it.

brakes will be reviewed and all steering bushings etc gone over.

the front left hub was leaking oil a bit. all this will be reviewed.

will go for an all new exhaust too already got a quote.

what am i missing?

 

[DTSkyCop]

Hey Charlie... Looking at these photos here... The rust on the floorboard looks like surface rust and is not detrimental to the floorboards... Your body guy might just have to sandblast or something else to remove the rust then prime right away for paint. I personally would leave it as original as possible. Only replace what panels you can not clean the rust off of and still have integrity of he panel. I am not sure what the sill is like, but again if only surface rust like these front floorboards, I would just treat, prime and paint. This is not a bad thing if it removes the rust etc... Only my $0.02 on the subject...I might be wrong in that thinking... surface rust is treatable if done right...

As for the rear fenders... Unless you are going for "show" quality etc... I don't think I would bother with the wheel wells as it is nicely done the way it is... Looks original to me... I would venture to say, 7 out of 10 people would not even catch that... I guess you could find a doner tub, and cut the area out you need and weld it to your frame and re-work the entire fender area on both sides to factory specs... But again... Are you going for "show" quality or a clean cruiser that is rust free and as original as possible...? Again, my $0.02 on the matter... I am no pro cruiser enthusiest, (Yet... lol) only an admirer of the vehicles taking in as much as I can... With all these guys converting to V8's and everything else... Those fenders are minimal at best IMHO... I don't thin it will take away from anything you are doing to refurbish the vehicle...

 

[CHAS404]

Thanks DTSkyCop.

I agree the rust is minimal. i am leaving it up to the bodyman as he has 20 yrs working on these trucks. I am giving him the opportunity to show me what he can do.

He swears the rear wheel wells are original original. I remember looking up underneath them etc the fender lips look great. All I can figure is they either look odd in the photos (I agree) bec of the paint/big tires/rims/shackle lift or maybe the tub that went to colombia from Japan was a little different for 1983.

I am not sure what my goal is exactly. I have debated and with the help of you guys I think i am going for as original and as high quality as I can this first time around. I am converting it to the USA spec seating arrangement and doing the interior as original as I can while taking advantage of the great interior guy I found and another guy that makes the OEM style roll bar by hand.

I am finding out that ORIGINAL is HARD to do! haha. maybe in the future I can do a custom one and be liberated a bit.

In some ways it is silly to do an 'original' American spec FJ40 based on a Colombian model (original is what it is now). But they DID sell 'american spec' FJ40s in colombia so I guess that theme would work.

I do like certain things about the colombian model: side vent windows, no smog, H41 trans. I personally like the longer benches too but i am going to convert it. we will see.

 

[CHAS404]

FYI. where do i buy the bracket for the 4x6 speaker under the dash???? i dont want speakers in the doors.

thanks

 

[broth9640]

I would keep it original "Colombian" even if your intent is to import to the USA. It's subtle differences make it unique and more desirable in my opinion. The only thing I would change are. Safety items that are required here in the USA.

 

[CHAS404]

I respect your opinion broth and appreciate the comment. that is what i am mulling over. I have a line on installing the nippodenso AC down there which I do like.

sure would be easier to do a custom one. but that will come later i think.

 

[Chamba]

Thanks. body man says they are original never cut. I am wondering if it is an 83 thing bec i know the tubs were different. OR I am wondering if the Colombian models had different wheel wells. weird. I remember looking at the well lips etc does not look cut. will investigate. truck is all dismantled already. will post pics.

Your body man is wrong. All 40 world wide (with the possible exception of South Africa where the beds of 45 pickup trucks were made locally and had squared off wheel wells) had identical rear wheel well openings.

Rear side markers are a north American feature. I would not add them. My Aussie spec LX does not have them. I would, however, find at least a front heater and preferably a centre/rear heater since you plan on selling her here and a 5 speed is a very attractive addition, though never offered here.

 

[lostmarbles]

now u guys got me going nuts over wheelwells. but it is important thanks.
2nd one is a 1983 also that I looked at to buy.

Here are those same photos (which you say are both 1983 models) with red lines added to follow the line of the fuel door lower edge.

need to confirm if cut rear fenders (they say no)

Well the red lines confirm that the green one's been cut.

....As for the rear fenders... Unless you are going for "show" quality etc... I don't think I would bother with the wheel wells as it is nicely done the way it is... Looks original to me... I would venture to say, 7 out of 10 people would not even catch that...\.

I agree. I've drooled over many 40-series examples but this body modification is so well done that I wasn't at all convinced it'd been modified until looking at the wheel well height in comparison with the fuel door (as illustrated with my red lines).

...i am leaving it up to the bodyman as he has 20 yrs working on these trucks. I am giving him the opportunity to show me what he can do.

He swears the rear wheel wells are original original. I remember looking up underneath them etc the fender lips look great. All I can figure is they either look odd in the photos (I agree) bec of the paint/big tires/rims/shackle lift or maybe the tub that went to colombia from Japan was a little different for 1983. ...

See! It's so well done it's even fooled a man with this much 40-series body-specific experience...

Your body man is wrong. All 40 world wide (with the possible exception of South Africa where the beds of 45 pickup trucks were made locally and had squared off wheel wells) had identical rear wheel well openings.....

As is so often the case, I agree with Chamba here...

 

[CHAS404]

Thanks much. In defense of the body man I am getting the info via my driver/employee right now. Thanks for the info. Now i am thinking I need to post another 83 bec i think that the tan one was restored and may have a different tub! Thanks also on the side markers I think I will leave them off.

Still dont know what to do with the seats. I can make it an american spec twin buckets with single seats out back but just bec I can does not mean I should.

Other option is to go twin buckets or leave it be and add a custom (not OEM style) roll bar and keep it 6 or 7 passenger. I want the rollbar for the seatbelts so the hard top can come off.

Truck is being dismantled so i can verify the fender issue. it has me stumped also bec looks a little off.

 

[CHAS404]

Yea I dunno. I think it looks cut to me bec the rear fender is not as squared off as some other ones I am looking at online. Will confirm. Thanks!

 

[CHAS404]

quick somebody measure from the top of the lip of the wheel opening to the top of the tub!

I might be able to do an H55F conversion down there. we will see. I think I am doing the old school heater and the original AC to the right.

 

[lostmarbles]

quick somebody measure from the top of the lip of the wheel opening to the top of the tub!

Hi Chas.

The hardtop on my 1979 prevents me from measuring to the top of the tub.

But this dimension here is 230mm.



And my July 1979 panel should be exactly the same as your 1983 panel originally was because these panels went unchanged from April 79 right through to the end of 40-series production.

 

[Chamba]

9 1/16" give-or-take to the lip where it bends inward. Someone with the top off can give you the measurement to the top of the tub.

 

[CHAS404]

News at 11pm! the great wheel well debate. the news on the street is....

they were cut 3cm but well done. I am in Florida now. Body man and my driver/employee are in Colombia. I told them they owe me lunch for driving us all nuts.

Thanks much.

Now the question is leave them as it or return to original?

 

[CHAS404]

This is exactly the reason why I am taking the risk and posting here. Thanks guys.

 

[Chamba]

Labour is cheap there. If you're keeping the 33x12.5x15, then I'd just put flares. If you're going narrower then I'd return them to stock given the level of detail you're lavishing elsewhere.