Restored '82 FJ43 with F2 Engine will crank but won't turn over, where do I go from here? (1 Viewer)

[Teekettlz]

Greetings! Felt good about myself and I thought I made some progress with firing up my FJ43 today... Just changed out all 6 spark plugs with the hope that my F2 engine would turnover. NOPE. I've pulled the choke a few times over the last several days and pressed the gas pedal numerous times, but to no avail. I fear of flooding it out or maybe I already have? Who knows. Any thoughts, guidance or heckling is appreciated as I navigate or stumble on trouble shooting this RIG.

Cheers to you ALL!

RT

 

[Green Bean]

Are you getting spark? If you don’t have a spark tester, you can pull a plug and check while someone cranks. It helps if it is a little dark.

 

[Grayscale]

Hidden 'kill-switch' previously installed? There is an 'Engine' fuse. It controls the fuel-cut solenoid on the carburetor, check it. Check that your ignition switch is energizing the coil by looking for life on the fuel tank gauge on the instrument cluster, or that your turn signal is working when the key is in the on-position. If the engine isn't turning, don't let the key remain in the 'on' - position for much time, I'm under the impression that it stresses the coil, on point-type ignitions.

 

[charliemeyer007]

It needs the right amount of clean fuel mixed with the correct amount of air and ignited at the correct time with enough compression.

Just because you bought new plugs doesn't mean they are good - wrong gap, type reach, cracked insulator during install, bad spark plug wires or coil, points not opening to generate the spark, corrosion inhibitor on breaker points acting as an insulator, timing not correct. Fuses, actually test them, sometimes it hard to see they are bad. See if you have a good spark

Weak/dead fuel pump, clogged fuel filter due to water, stuck needle valve not letting in fuel, wrong setting on mixture screws. Big vacuum leak Plugged of air filter.

Valve clearance set wrong. Check timing - check compression.

After it has set for like a day, try and start it with a shot of starting fluid right down the bore. It barks or runs briefly you like have spark.

Know any car people that could you figure it out

 

[Pighead]

Are you getting fuel? Look in the little porthole carb window to see...

 

[73FJ40]

@Teekettlz

Just for clarification, "crank" and "turn over" mean the same thing. The starter turns the engine "over".

So, your engine turns over but doesn't start or "fire up".

 

[Teekettlz]

Spark plug issue and "fire-up" identified. FJ Patrons, after some patience, reading your helpful guidance, and doing some due diligence (along with several trips to Advanced Auto and O-O'Reilly) I traced back my steps once again. Both of these wires were bare and crossed. I cleaned them and rewrapped them. F2 engine fired right up. More testing tomorrow to make sure all is good.

Happy Fix-IT Monday!

Question, shall I keep the old (but seeming good) spark plugs as back-ups? Asking for a friend...

 

[charliemeyer007]

Yes keep the used plugs if they are good. I also keep the used coil wire and the longest spark plug wire in the under seat tool box.

 

[Grayscale]

It depends how wasted-looking the plugs are. Carbon and oil can be removed; I clean my plugs about three times a year. The electrodes need to be not eroded, and the ceramic insulator needs to be tight against the center electrode. It takes quite a bit of wheeling, or a lean fuel-mix, to wear-out a set of plugs. I have multiple sets of new plugs, but, right now I'm using the Autolite 65 that were rusted-in the block when I bought it, as the engine received some water from somewhere. A piece of like 220-grit, folded over, just barely fits the fouled-up .032-inch gap (I run my worn-out 2F plug gap at the F-engine-specs to reduce the voltage needed to fire across fouled plugs). Compressed air, something akin to a dental-scaler to remove thick carbon, steel-wool, and a Harbor Freight steel wire toothbrush, these are the tools I use to make them run perfect again. Reusing plugs is nice, especially because you can just check the gap, and not fuss with over, or under-bending the grounding strap, and there will be some oil already on the threads to function as anti-seize.