Requesting assistance in sourcing a wiring harness on my '94

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Attached are pictures of a corroded connector and wiring harness on my 94 LC. It is triple locked, US spec. I'm looking for a PID on where exactly this harness routes and whether or not it is available to purchase anywhere. I assume it's NLA from Toyota. It is corroded in a connector under the filler neck, in the left rear wheel well. Thanks in advance for your help.
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What’s a PID?

Each connector has a 5 digit number that is the suffix of a 10-digit Toyot part number.

Get that number, add 90980 to the front of it and order from your Toyota dealer. They can also get you the splices needed for the connector using the Wiring Harness Repair manual (you can download it in the Resources section of MUD).
 
Attached are pictures of a corroded connector and wiring harness on my 94 LC. It is triple locked, US spec. I'm looking for a PID on where exactly this harness routes and whether or not it is available to purchase anywhere. I assume it's NLA from Toyota. It is corroded in a connector under the filler neck, in the left rear wheel well. Thanks in advance for your help.
Those 2 connectors are called out in the EWD as BQ1 and BQ2. I'm assuming you're referring to the 20 pin connector BQ1. The female is 10810 and the male is 10811. The EWD does not have a picture of the male side with the corresponding part number.

If you download what @OGBeno suggested, along with the FSM and EWD for your truck, you can search part numbers and associated pins for each connector.

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What’s a PID?

Each connector has a 5 digit number that is the suffix of a 10-digit Toyot part number.

Get that number, add 90980 to the front of it and order from your Toyota dealer. They can also get you the splices needed for the connector using the Wiring Harness Repair manual (you can download it in the Resources section of MUD).
Thank you very much, I'll do this! Sorry, by "PID" I meant "positive identification".
 
FWIW, Ballenger Motorsports sells the Sumitomo and Yazaki terminals and connector housings that Toyota used to build the harnesses. Much cheaper to source them there than buy from a dealer. The dealers do not sell terminals, only "repair wires" which are terminals crimped onto a 6" pigtail, which you then have to crimp onto your harness. PITA if you ask me. These things were made for dealer technicians; you can do better by simply crimping new terminals onto the existing wires, if need be. Ballenger also has the rear seals for sealed connector housings, if you need to replace them.

The Wiring Harness Repair manual has the information you need to match the terminal type to the connector housing. The terminals in those connector housings are type 2.3II, if I'm not mistaken.
 
FWIW, Ballenger Motorsports sells the Sumitomo and Yazaki terminals and connector housings that Toyota used to build the harnesses. Much cheaper to source them there than buy from a dealer. The dealers do not sell terminals, only "repair wires" which are terminals crimped onto a 6" pigtail, which you then have to crimp onto your harness. PITA if you ask me. These things were made for dealer technicians; you can do better by simply crimping new terminals onto the existing wires, if need be. Ballenger also has the rear seals for sealed connector housings, if you need to replace them.

The Wiring Harness Repair manual has the information you need to match the terminal type to the connector housing. The terminals in those connector housings are type 2.3II, if I'm not mistaken.
I happen to be a dealer technician, just not for Toyota lol. I'm a BMW dealer tech. I was going to replace the entire harness but I'm sure it'll be easier to just cut out the corrosion and repair it. It's kind of in a pain in the ass spot but I'll get it done here soon. Just need to order the new connectors from Toyo and splice them in. I didn't realize the fzj80 FSM was available in the resources so I just downloaded that and I'll probably tackle that next weekend. Thanks for your help and insight.
 
FWIW, the connector housings are generally lifetime parts; they only need to be replaced when the lock tabs are broken by some ham fisted somebody. The terminals get corroded, and then it's a judgement call on whether it's quicker, and easier, to clean them or replace them. Either way, they have to come out of the connector housings. The repair method is in the Wiring Harness Repair manual.

I don't know what BMW manuals are like, but Toyota's are very good.
 

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