Replacing water pump

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Two Buck

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Apr 27, 2009
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Nowhere, NM
I'm swapping out the water pump on my '85 FJ60. I'm just starting the job and knowing me it's going to take a long time and I'll have a lot of questions, so I figured I'd start the thread early.

So here's my first comment. Not so much as question as an observation: Someone in a another thread here suggested pulling the radiator first, saying "takes 10 minutes." I'm calling BS on that. I'm an hour into it and my radiator is still in.

I'm taking a break to cool off before I break something. :mad:
 
Yeah, rad takes 10 mins if you've pulled it 5 times already and put everything back together with anti-seize ... Just go at it low and slow and you'll get it, and you'll avoid breaking things.

Actually, I take that back - it can take 10 mins the first time if you're the one drinking the beer and supervising...

:D:D
 
I thought I was getting over my bad temper as I mellowed with age. I was wrong. :mad::mad::mad:

Can anyone tell me how the fsk to remove these stupid fsking nuts when the bolts keep spinning as you turn them? And the first person to say "remove AC system" loses.

I managed to get the first one off (I have no idea how I'll get it back on), but the other one just spins and spins and spins. And of course that's the last thing holding the radiator on...

IMG7139-M.jpg

IMG7140-M.jpg
 
penatrating oil and an air gun. good luck

Penetrating oil and a screwdriver jammed down through the gap and up against the bolt to create some friction did the trick.

And now I'm well and truly stuck. The radiator is free, but the neck out of the bottom won't clear the fan shroud. The fan shroud won't come out until the fan comes off. The radiator is preventing me from getting a clear shot at the fan, and it won't come out b/c of the fan shroud.

So... Suggestions on getting the fsking fan off? I know it's something as simple as removing a few bolts (ha!) but I'm too cross-eyed pissed off right now to think straight. :bang::wrench::mad:
 
You do need to loosen the AC condenser and put a wrench on the other side. It is a s***ty design. You can tack weld the bolts in, so next time it will take 10 min.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
There are 4 nuts that hold the fan to the water pump. Take those off and the fan and shroud will come out together.

Dynosoar:zilla:
 
Really, don't pull the rad to change the pump. Remove the fan and clutch, hoses, pump. Replace in opposite order.
 
1) Loosen fan belts.

2) Remove the fan and clutch from the pump.

3) Unbolt the shroud. (May have to disconnect upper rad hose; can't recall)

4) Pull shroud and fan together.

5) Leave radiator in.

It is true that having the radiator out creates more working room.

Also, most of us, once we have the shroud out, we cut it in half horizontally. Then, next project, we just undo two bolts and remove the top half of the shroud.

Sorry you're angry. Cool off. Then, go at it again.
 
How's the cond of the radiator? - Just askin' 'cuz while it's out, it might be wise to have it boiled (cheap) just for that extra cooling margin with summer coming on.
 
How's the cond of the radiator? - Just askin' 'cuz while it's out, it might be wise to have it boiled (cheap) just for that extra cooling margin with summer coming on.

That's exactly why I went ahead and pulled it even though I didn't need to (really glad I did that now -- not. ha) It looks okay; a few dented fins in one spot but pretty clean otherwise. I'll go ahead and cut the shroud and replace all the hoses while I'm at it. This has been such a PITA that I'm going to make it count.

Unfortunately, I won't have time to work on it tomorrow and I'm going out of town most of next week, so I won't get back to it until next weekend. I may not be a very good mechanic, but at least I'm slow!
 
1) Loosen fan belts.

2) Remove the fan and clutch from the pump.

3) Unbolt the shroud. (May have to disconnect upper rad hose; can't recall)

4) Pull shroud and fan together.

5) Leave radiator in.

It is true that having the radiator out creates more working room.

Also, most of us, once we have the shroud out, we cut it in half horizontally. Then, next project, we just undo two bolts and remove the top half of the shroud.

Sorry you're angry. Cool off. Then, go at it again.

Agreed.
Changed pump on my 60 once and never pulled rad.
 
On the radiator bolts, I have put a flat blade screwdriver through the front of the grill and can catch an edge of the bolt head enough to keep it from spinning.
Worked for me a few times.

As said, no need to remove radiator. Do the fan shroud cut. However, it's a good idea to put something protective (thin plywood, heavy cardboard) on the radiator surface while banging around in there.
Last water pump I did the pump slipped and poked a big hole in my rad.:mad:
 
...and I'm back at it again. About 6 hours in so far today and I'm making 2 steps forward, one step back progress. I may not be a good mechanic, but I'm slow!

Lesson learned #1: Put the water hoses on the new water pump before installing it. Makes it much easier to connect them all up. I know this because I put it in bare first, then took it out and connected the hoses before putting it back in. :bang: Version #2: Easier! :clap:

Lesson learned #2: Put the water pump pulley and fan clutch on before installing water pump. Makes putting them on much easier when you do it on the bench. I know this because I put it in bare first, then took it out and put the pulley and fan clutch on before putting it back in. :bang: Version #2: Easier! :clap:

So here's the question du jour: Should the fan clutch turn freely? Mine turns, but with serious resistance.

I'm hoping everyone chimes in with "Oh no, it's supposed to be hard to turn!" but I have a feeling you won't. I think it's going to become Lesson learned #3...
 
...and... Finished. :bounce::clap::bounce2:

It took me waaay too long because I work waaay too slowly, but I'm done. If I ever have to do this again, I think I'll be able to cut the time down to half a day or so. I probably won't pull the rad next time (although it did give some nice working room and I was able to have it rodded out while it was out), and I'll have a better strategy for fighting with the hoses.

I did what I could to burp it but I think I may still have some air in the coolant, because the temp gauge got to halfway after I let it idle for awhile and it rarely went over 1/4 before. I'll give the overflow a chance to even things out before I start chasing it myself.

All told, I'd say this was a two point five banana job for a two banana mechanic like me, so don't mind me while I pat myself on the back. :grinpimp:
 
I'm doing this same job today and am having the same problem with the lower hoses. I had to quit before I broke something. I'll try again tomorrow. As for the fan clutch it should have serious resistance, That means it's good. (In most cases)
 
...and... Finished. :bounce::clap::bounce2:

, so don't mind me while I pat myself on the back. :grinpimp:

I am not a skilled mech. Usually the first time I do a "repair" it's not quite right. The second time it's better, but not perfect. By the third time I'm pretty good, and the repair will likely hold for a long time.

You totally deserve to pat yourself on the back. And...just in case something goes wrong...give yourself a break because you at least have the guts to take this on by yourself.

In my own case, the first time I replace the waterpump/fan clutch...everything worked great for 2 weeks. Then, on the way home one evening (85 degrees outside) steam started billowing out from under the hood. I pulled over quickly and shut it down. The problem was obvious...there was coolent bubbling from one of the hoses that comes off the back of the pump. I'd neglected to get all of the hose-clamps tight. A few turns of the screwdriver, and no more leakage. 25,000 miles later, still working great.
 

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