Replacing Pinion Seal - need some tips please

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Dauntless

Dauntless

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Threads
7
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136
Location
NSW, Australia
So following on from my brake drum saga, I have now fitted the Aussie Locker to the 3rd member. Everything seemed to go as planned, with everything being well within listed tolerances after final assembly.

However, when I removed the tailshaft from the diff, oil gushed out. This must mean the seal needs to be replaced, so I purchased a genuine Toyota seal.

So, how difficult is it to replace this seal? Is it 100% necessary to replace the crush bush at the same time? If so, what is the process to go through to get the correct adjustment?
 
If by "tailshaft", you mean that there was oil between the driveshaft end flange and the flange on the diff, then the pinion seal is not the problem. You have oil leaking up through the pinion splines, around the stake nut, and into this small cavity. What you need is to get some RTV/FIPG on the splines of the pinion. But, since this involves pulling the flange off anyway, I would also replace the pinion seal (especially since you've already purchased one).

You will want a new stake nut as well. But you don't really need to replace the crush sleeve.

Unstake the old pinion nut, and pop it off (hopefully you have access to an impact gun). 30mm socket. Slide the old flange off, then pry out the old seal. I always put a thin coating of RTV around the outer edge of the seal, but make sure there is plenty of grease on the inner part of the seal, where it rides on the flange. Gently tap the new seal in, all the way down flush and even.

Carefully put some RTV on the splines of the pinion. It doesn't take much. Then put some on the inside mating splines of the flange. Take some 400-grit sandpaper, clean up the sealing face on the pinion flange, and slide it back on. Speeze more RTV into the circular cavity under the thrust washer for the nut, then put the washer back on. Put a few drops of red Loctite on the pinion threads, and spin the new stake nut on. Torque to about 150 ft-lbs, then stake the nut.

I might be wrong on the torque, don't have my FSM handy.
 
The pinion nut torque is what adjusts the bearing preload, so it's not a set number. I usually put the nut back on till it's just past where it was (the bearings have worn in and have loosened up a little) and make sure the bearings turn nice and easy and that there's no play side to side or in and out.
 
Thanks for that. The 3rd member is still sitting on the bench, so I think the best solution would be for me to make that tool out of some flatbar and put it in the vice to stop it moving?
 
well

Well to do it right it should get a new crush sleeve. Better yet, just pull the 3rd member and put new bearings in it too, because many times that is the cause anyways.



Dauntless said:
So following on from my brake drum saga, I have now fitted the Aussie Locker to the 3rd member. Everything seemed to go as planned, with everything being well within listed tolerances after final assembly.

However, when I removed the tailshaft from the diff, oil gushed out. This must mean the seal needs to be replaced, so I purchased a genuine Toyota seal.

So, how difficult is it to replace this seal? Is it 100% necessary to replace the crush bush at the same time? If so, what is the process to go through to get the correct adjustment?
Click to expand...
 
solid spacer

A solid preload spacer is a billet non-collapsible piece that takes place of the crush sleeve. It is slightly shorter than the height of a Crushed crush sleeve, and the extra gap is filled with shims. This way it is adjustable as the measurement is not the same in every diff. This allows a rigid setup, and once set, ITS set. It will allow you to remove the pinion nut at a later time and re install without affecting preload. Crush sleeves are a 1 time use part.
 
ringpinion.biz said:
A solid preload spacer is a billet non-collapsible piece that takes place of the crush sleeve. It is slightly shorter than the height of a Crushed crush sleeve, and the extra gap is filled with shims. This way it is adjustable as the measurement is not the same in every diff. This allows a rigid setup, and once set, ITS set. It will allow you to remove the pinion nut at a later time and re install without affecting preload. Crush sleeves are a 1 time use part.
Click to expand...

That's exactly right, what he said...:)

These guys sponsored our Fall Crawl 4x4 Trials event way up here in the middle of Montana, they are awesome, buy their parts!
 
Hmm, interesting. Where do I get that coloured grease stuff that I need to be able to see where the ring and pinion are riding on eachother? And do I need any other special tools to set this up?
 
Chances are if the seal is bad so is the bearings. Did you check for laterl movement in the pinion....I mean grabbing the pinion flange and shaking?

RB is not just pimping his parts he is being truthful:beer:
 
Yeah it's strange, the bearing seems to have absolutely no play. Solid as a rock. I did find the diff breather was completely blocked though, could that cause oil to push past the pinion seal?
 
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