I am not a mechanic but I have just changed my second set of injectors in my limited mechanical experience on my 2h. First time was years ago on a b engine in a bj40, rip. I must have fluked that one as I do not recall any issues and being very easy, but I am losing my mind slowly.
I thought a list of recommendations for guidance as there is certainly a leap between talking about paint colours, seats and working on engines especially high pressure fuel lines. There is gap on mud between very experienced, to folks who want to have a go and understand.
1. Prepare as if going to war.
2. A set of clean tools, almost separate from the ones used for dirty drive train work. Or clean them.
3. Air compressor is your best friend, to clean and find leaks.
4.Do not underestimate soft fuel line leakage. May as well replace the hoses along with good non mar soft hose clamps.
5. Good lighting.
6. Glasses if you need them.
7. Vacuum cleaner and little 4 and 6mm tube attachments, step down hoses to fit, use gaffer tape to join.
8. Tap and dies which fit your injectors and return hard line hold down nuts. Never force them on and strip your thread. You will not achieve enough torque otherwise. In case you stuff up. The more you fiddle, the greater the chance to strip threads using torque. The reason why injector conditioners want to check the housing before returning deposit. The more folks who strip the threads by over torquing, the less housings are available.
9. Spare washers. The crush washers, especially the one which sits below the nozzle are single use. It almost like calligraphy, one shot. The brass washers are very robust.
10. It is probably better to use the lower torque setting at first, then you have a bit more to go if you have leaks.
11. Don't even bother going for a test drive until you are absolutely certain there is zero leakage, after thorough bleeding of filters, pump, injector lines.
12. various sockets and crows foot which fit injectors and lines.
13. very easy to damage your engine, drop stuff in the cylinder, strip threads. Far more difficult than just changing spark plugs!
14. good reason why diesel mechanics charge a bomb. For a job only done every 100000km, it is worth considering for simple peace of mind..
15. Have plenty of juice in your tank, I recall some friends idling and revving for hours seeking leaks.
16. maybe the uv die and black light torch could be a really good thing if you can find exact location of leaks. Anyone got a good priced brand?
17. removing glows and pumping the injectors with the starter is an excellent technique. Thanks Rosco.
Please anyone, add more.
I thought a list of recommendations for guidance as there is certainly a leap between talking about paint colours, seats and working on engines especially high pressure fuel lines. There is gap on mud between very experienced, to folks who want to have a go and understand.
1. Prepare as if going to war.
2. A set of clean tools, almost separate from the ones used for dirty drive train work. Or clean them.
3. Air compressor is your best friend, to clean and find leaks.
4.Do not underestimate soft fuel line leakage. May as well replace the hoses along with good non mar soft hose clamps.
5. Good lighting.
6. Glasses if you need them.
7. Vacuum cleaner and little 4 and 6mm tube attachments, step down hoses to fit, use gaffer tape to join.
8. Tap and dies which fit your injectors and return hard line hold down nuts. Never force them on and strip your thread. You will not achieve enough torque otherwise. In case you stuff up. The more you fiddle, the greater the chance to strip threads using torque. The reason why injector conditioners want to check the housing before returning deposit. The more folks who strip the threads by over torquing, the less housings are available.
9. Spare washers. The crush washers, especially the one which sits below the nozzle are single use. It almost like calligraphy, one shot. The brass washers are very robust.
10. It is probably better to use the lower torque setting at first, then you have a bit more to go if you have leaks.
11. Don't even bother going for a test drive until you are absolutely certain there is zero leakage, after thorough bleeding of filters, pump, injector lines.
12. various sockets and crows foot which fit injectors and lines.
13. very easy to damage your engine, drop stuff in the cylinder, strip threads. Far more difficult than just changing spark plugs!
14. good reason why diesel mechanics charge a bomb. For a job only done every 100000km, it is worth considering for simple peace of mind..
15. Have plenty of juice in your tank, I recall some friends idling and revving for hours seeking leaks.
16. maybe the uv die and black light torch could be a really good thing if you can find exact location of leaks. Anyone got a good priced brand?
17. removing glows and pumping the injectors with the starter is an excellent technique. Thanks Rosco.
Please anyone, add more.