Replacing alternator brushes (1 Viewer)

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Decided to replace the brushes on my 200,000 mile alternator as a PM today. First I removed the adjusting bolt, locking bolt, nut and pivot bolt as per the FSM. Then removed the three 12mm bolts that hold the power steering reservoir in place and moved that forward and to the side. I was concerned that it might leak but it didn't. To get the alternator loose I had to lightly tap downwards at the upper pivot point using a brass drift and hammer. Couldn't wiggle the alternator out with the large oil filter I had just put on, so pulled the filter back off, and the alternator came right out. If using the small filter you might not have to do this step.

Got the back cover off no problem after removing the three 10mm nuts and one 10mm bolt and the 10mm nut and plastic insulator on the side. The two Phillips head screws holding the brush holder in place are soft and were in very tight. One of them started to deform so I backed off, got a better fitting #2 Dewalt Phillips bit on a handle (for downward pressure), put about 1/2 drop of PB Blaster on each screw, tapped on the screws with the bit in place, then applied steady pressure and they came loose.

The brushes were not as worn as I would have expected after so many miles; there is still about 3mm of usable brush length. To measure that I put the brush pack back in and made a light score mark on one brush then pulled the pack back out. The slip rings looks good, hardly any wear by feel, I just cleaned them up with some quick dry electronics cleaner on a paper towel and blew out the carbon dust with compressed air.

Holding the alternator up to my ear while spinning the pulley I could hear some very slight grinding, whirring, intermittent tick/click sounds like the bearings are getting dry and/or worn; there were different sounds at the front and the back. Now I'm thinking that I may just put the old brushes back in which could be good for at least 50,000 more miles instead of using the new brushes. I figure I'll either have to rebuild this one or get a remanufactured unit sometime before the old brushes wear out.
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Rough measurements of the new brushes shows they have about 10/32 (8mm) of usable length, and the old brushes have about 4/32 (3mm) of usable length remaining. The FSM says 1mm is the minimum length. So calculating 200,000 miles wore down about 5mm of brush length that's 40,000 miles per mm. Theoretically if the wear rate stays the same then these brushes could have 80,000 miles left on them, although I'm not sure if the bearings will last that long. In the bottom photo you can see the mark I made with the brushes in place against the slip rings of the rotor (top photo); the remaining length is from the mark up to the case. Checked the rotor for continuity by touching the multimeter probes to the slip rings, got 3.0 Ohms (Range 2.8-3.0 Ohms cold).

Edit: In the middle photo the new and old brush packs side-by-side are upside down. The bottom photo shows the brush pack in the correct orientation for installation; notice the nib of plastic at the top right rear of the plastic housing.
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Wow, Kernal, nice write up & pics. But, what year is your rig? I was able to leave the alternator on my '94 when I replaced the brushes, back in 2006 - $19 for OEM, at the time. It had 184k on it then. Of course I couldn't do the bearing test like you did. My original brushes were longer than I expected, also. I think I threw them in my spare parts in case of emergency. I can dig them out and measure the length for comparison if you want.
 
It looks possible to replace the brush pack with the alternator mounted and the oil filter out of the way if you have long arms and a strong back. The advantages to pulling it out IMHO is you can see the brushes or other carnage, hear/feel the bearings and check wear on the slip rings. After thinking on it overnight I decide to go ahead and use the new brushes. I noticed while fiddling with the two packs that the used brushes being shorter also have less outward tension than the new longer brushes. Not an alternator expert, but have been reading some that worn brushes can bounce around and make light or intermittent contact resulting in erratic alternator outputs, or the slip rings can become coated with a film that also will decrease the power, or worn bearings can drag----. These bearings weren't dragging, the pulley spun freely, maybe too freely??
 
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It looks possible to replace the brush pack with the alternator mounted and the oil filter out of the way if you have long arms and a strong back......
I was lazy and in a hurry and came to the conclusion it would be less effort and quicker to do it that way.
.......The advantages to pulling it out IMHO is you can see the brushes or other carnage, hear/feel the bearings and check wear on the slip rings......
I agree. The better and more complete method is the way you are doing it.
......After thinking on it overnight I decide to go ahead and use the new brushes. I noticed while fiddling with the two packs that the used brushes being shorter also have less outward tension than the new longer brushes. Not an alternator expert, but have been reading some that worn brushes can bounce around and make light or intermittent contact resulting in erratic alternator outputs, or the slip rings can become coated with a film that also will decrease the power, or worn bearings can drag----. These bearings weren't dragging, the pulley spun freely, maybe too freely??
That was my reasoning also. I was motivated to make a change, at the time, due to some intermittent weird dash lights and wasn't sure the battery was being charged completely. Since then the alternator has performed with no complaints. Pretty cheap fix IMHO. Good work and excellent thread!
 
Before putting the new brush pack in I polished the slip rings using 1000 then 1500 grit sandpaper; just held a small piece of sandpaper on the slip rings while rotating the pulley to polish them evenly. Then cleaned them and other connections with quick dry electronics cleaner and a paper towel and cleaned the rubber dust cover and positioned it over the brush pack before reinstalling the back cover. The brush pack can only go in one way as there is a little nib of plastic on the top/back that prevents it being installed upside down, it just won't fit. Forgot to get good photos of the slip rings after cleaning them up, you can just see them with the new brush pack installed. Noticed that the rubber boot that fits over the top of the brush pack has a small opening; not sure if that is to let air (and dust) out, or air in. Before reinstalling the alternator I cleaned up the casting slightly using a flat file and emery cloth where the alternator mounts to the brackets and used anti-seize on the pivot bolts and adjusting bolt threads and the pivot points, slipped right in no problem.
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Anyone know the part # for the connector circled in the photo? tried to pull the plug and busted the locking tab :/
Hoping I can pull the pins and get a new plug.

Didn't even need to unplug it, so that was stupid of me.
Thanks for the tip of removing the oil filter- made this easy, except for the plug....

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Anyone know the part # for the connector circled in the photo? tried to pull the plug and busted the locking tab :/
Hoping I can pull the pins and get a new plug.

Didn't even need to unplug it, so that was stupid of me.
Thanks for the tip of removing the oil filter- made this easy, except for the plug....

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Before putting the new brush pack in I polished the slip rings using 1000 then 1500 grit sandpaper; just held a small piece of sandpaper on the slip rings while rotating the pulley to polish them evenly. Then cleaned them and other connections with quick dry electronics cleaner and a paper towel and cleaned the rubber dust cover and positioned it over the brush pack before reinstalling the back cover. The brush pack can only go in one way as there is a little nib of plastic on the top/back that prevents it being installed upside down, it just won't fit. Forgot to get good photos of the slip rings after cleaning them up, you can just see them with the new brush pack installed. Noticed that the rubber boot that fits over the top of the brush pack has a small opening; not sure if that is to let air (and dust) out, or air in. Before reinstalling the alternator I cleaned up the casting slightly using a flat file and emery cloth where the alternator mounts to the brackets and used anti-seize on the pivot bolts and adjusting bolt threads and the pivot points, slipped right in no problem.
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If you decide to do your bearings:

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I went completely though mine and have plenty of pics if anyone needs them (rebuild alternator), just let me know.
 

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