Replace Rotors with pads? (1 Viewer)

[jakemccurdy]

Havn’t done a brake job in a while (like 25 years?). Looks easy but all the youtubbers and write ups either just replace the rotors and don’t say why, or only do the pads and not talk assessing the rotors. I don’t have any chatter, just feeling the vibration of the ‘feelers’ coming on so I know I need pads at least.

Anyone got any advice on what to do about the rotors? Should I take them to napa and ask if they can check them/turn them? Or just replace the rotors becuase it’s easy? Looks like they are about $75 each corner for discount OEM so it’s not a huge expense but would like to keep my $300 if there is no need. 160K currently.

 

[Rednexus]

I usually don't replace rotors unless they are obviously warped (as indicated by a pulsating brake pedal/vibration while braking) or are otherwise damaged (i.e., badly grooved). All of my vehicles have had rotors last over 100K. This usually results in my rotors going through two sets of pads in their lifetime.

Getting rotors turned was pretty commonplace on older vehicles, but most modern vehicles use a "thin" rotor which aren't designed to be turned. I'd just replace them if they are obviously warped or grooved.

 

[re_guderian]

^^^ This. I just replaced my rotors, but that was because the fronts were obviously warped, and shuddering during braking. Replace only when needed. It's only 2 extra bolts to change the rotors at any time if you want to later on, just to take the caliper off. If you're not having shuddering or vibrations only when braking, and only hearing the metallic squeal of the wear indicator, then I've always just done pads.

I guess technically you could get your calipers and measure rotor thickness compared to spec, but if it's nearing too thin, it's gonna warp soon anyway...

This time, since I was in there having to do rotors, I did front and rear Powerstop rotors and heavy duty pads.

I haven't had the GX long enough to know, but both my 100-series Cruisers wore back brakes faster than front, and that seemed to be conistent with other Mudder's experiences, but different from every other car I've owned, which seem to go through fronts faster.

 

[Banandalorian]

If the rotor surfaces are in good shape you don't necessarily need to do anything with the rotors, but at 160,000 miles they probably have some pitting/scratching/warping.

I haven't done anything with the GX brakes yet, but in my last 2 cars I would get new rotors with new pads because a Centric blank was only a few dollars more than resurfacing (and my Fiesta ST would eat front rotors so they couldn't be turned anyway)

 

[re_guderian]

Side note, I'm at 177K, and though the pads I took off were "Car-Quest" brand, I'm pretty sure the warped rotors were OEM. I've thad the rig for a little over a year, and the warping happened recently. I also installed, and did some pretty extensive testing of CC and MTS, both of which I can see heating up the rotors, then clamping them. I'm wondering in the back of my mind if long usage of CC/MTS can impact the lifespan of rotors in a negative way.

 

[jiggletits]

If they’re baby butt smooth and not warped don’t worry about it, if they are pitted or grooved get them turned, it is cheap. 20 year old Toyota steel rotors are superior than anything new aftermarket.

 

[r2m]

Havn’t done a brake job in a while (like 25 years?). Looks easy but all the youtubbers and write ups either just replace the rotors and don’t say why, or only do the pads and not talk assessing the rotors. I don’t have any chatter, just feeling the vibration of the ‘feelers’ coming on so I know I need pads at least.

Anyone got any advice on what to do about the rotors? Should I take them to napa and ask if they can check them/turn them? Or just replace the rotors becuase it’s easy? Looks like they are about $75 each corner for discount OEM so it’s not a huge expense but would like to keep my $300 if there is no need. 160K currently.

So you've priced new rotors, have you priced resurfacing them? Had my resurfaced twice. The first time was because I was getting pulsing from them being a little warped. After a short time that pulsing cam back and had them trimmed again. Bingo! They've been great since!
Although when I do get to the point of needing an new set of rotors, I'll be doing my homework on the best driled, slotted or stock rotors and pads out there. May even move up to stainless steel hoses too since they're all pulled apart!

My vote would be save the money and just have them resurfaced.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Hmmmm. Mine aren't squealing at all but I feel some vibration in the pedal that wasn't there before... Has anyone turned a GX460 rotor?

 

[jakemccurdy]

Okay, just checked Napa. $35 to turn a rotor, $75 for a new one.... New rotors it is. I'm going OEM. I'd be afraid slotted or cross drilled could cause a few issues when I'm traversing a mud bog with the gravel all stirred up. I'm sure they're great for race cars, but I drive a tank and take it through the mud on occasion : )

 

[jdam]

Also a reminder to those that think rotors are warped - you have do to really, really dumb things to modern rotors to warp them. Significant overheating, really bad braking habits and super overweight. Most times, brake pulsation and judder is just pad deposits on the rotor. Have them turned and rebed using proper procedures and they should run straight again.

I know it's not much of a difference between the cost of turning vs. new rotors, but personally the annoyance of keeping half-life rotors in the garage outweighs the slight price difference. I'm a hoarder and insert comment here about over-consumption.

 

[re_guderian]

Also a reminder to those that think rotors are warped - you have do to really, really dumb things to modern rotors to warp them. Significant overheating, really bad braking habits and super overweight. Most times, brake pulsation and judder is just pad deposits on the rotor. Have them turned and rebed using proper procedures and they should run straight again.

I know it's not much of a difference between the cost of turning vs. new rotors, but personally the annoyance of keeping half-life rotors in the garage outweighs the slight price difference. I'm a hoarder and insert comment here about over-consumption.

But what are we then to use as a base to shoot mortars off of during the backyard 4th of July fireworks party???

For the labor involved (more to schlep rotors to the ever-decreasing locations that do it), might as well start with new. Whether truly warped, or from of deposits, makes little difference, symptom and cure are the same. And thinner rotors, with less mass ARE more susceptible to heat damage, so other than the environmental cost, I see little upside to turning. Even reading the Stop Tech white papers on how to remove deposits from rotors...wow... involves buying another set of high-speed pads and 2 pad changes. I'd have to be pretty emotionally attached to those rotors to go to those lengths...

 

[K Dub]

I just did my rotors with the pads a couple weeks ago. Mostly because I couldn't find a shop with same day turnaround for resurfacing. The stealership wanted to keep the truck for 3 days for a $1200 brake job!

I kept the OEM ones to get turned and I'll swap them back on next time I do pads. That way I can do it on my own terms, on my own time, and have a platform for launching fireworks. I just have to store them in the meantime, which could be a problem for non-hoarders but not for me.

 

[midwestgxer]

I just did my rotors with the pads a couple weeks ago. Mostly because I couldn't find a shop with same day turnaround for resurfacing. The stealership wanted to keep the truck for 3 days for a $1200 brake job!

I kept the OEM ones to get turned and I'll swap them back on next time I do pads. That way I can do it on my own terms, on my own time, and have a platform for launching fireworks. I just have to store them in the meantime, which could be a problem for non-hoarders but not for me.

This is my approach as well. 2 sets of OEM rotors will last you a very long time.

 

[jiggletits]

Most shops can turn rotors same day. Used to be 20 minutes. Still, does not see like a big enough deal to keep extra rotors around.

 

[Rednexus]

Quite a few auto parts stores will turn rotors - at least around here. Rotors on "old" cars used to have a wear indicator in the center telling you then they could no longer be turned.

I always just replace them - cheap enough. My GX is running Bosch rotors the PO put on right before my purchase. I'd prefer OEM but they've been fine for my 20K of ownership. My old rotors then end up in the metal pile at our local recycler - to be melted down and turned into patio furniture .

 

[K Dub]

I know the work is quick enough to do it in a day, but by the time I got the factory set off and started calling around on a Saturday morning nobody wanted to commit to same-day turnaround. A couple shops only do it Monday-Friday so that's not an option for a working stiff like me. I bought Bosch rotors, and was a little uneasy about it, but after replacing whatever fluid I could from the reservoir at the same time the brakes feel far better than before. Saving $700 and a couple of days without the truck outweighed all the other considerations. After the driving I did last weekend I'm confident in my choice, and if these rotors do warp see my post about keeping the OEMs on the ready. We'll see how it goes long term, but I'm happy for now.

 

[re_guderian]

O'Reillys around here will turn for $25 per rotor, but they're perpetually short staffed. Cuz...you know...

 

[jiggletits]

O'Reillys around here will turn for $25 per rotor, but they're perpetually short staffed. Cuz...they pay s*** wages with no benefits like most antiquated boomer owned businesses

Clarified that for you

 

[OllieChristopher]

If I can run my fingernail across without it grabbing then I just run a Scotchbrite or sanding disc over them. If your brakes were not pulsating before the brake job they are not warped.

 

[Acrad]

============================
[Brake Calipers]
PN: 47730-60300 / Front Right
PN: 47750-60300 / Front Left
PN: 47730-34030 / Right Rear
PN: 47750-34030 / Left Rear
============================
[Brake Pads]
PN: 04465-60320 / Front
PN: 04466-60140 / Rear
============================
[Brake Rotors]
PN: 43512-60191 / Front
PN: 42431-60311 / Rear
============================



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