Repair or replace blown subwoofer on 2002 LX470 with the Mark Levinson audio system? (2 Viewers)

[CSG1]

Been ages since I've been on here and I know there were some older threads regarding this issue but I wanted to ask if there was any updated info on this issue. I've owned my LX since the end of 2009 and this is really only the second repair outside of maintenance I've had to do all these years. I'm not a basshead and the controls have always had the bass notched down a couple bars. Point being, I'd like to replace it with an appropriate speaker or have this one rebuilt (where?) but it doesn't need to be a sub, any woofer of the correct ohms (8, 4?) would likely be fine for me. My goal is to get the system playing out of all the speakers again as I have to fade fully to the front to quiet the blown sub. BTW, I will not be doing the work myself, I'll be using my dealer. I appreciate any thoughts/help in getting system fixed.

 

[CSG1]

Hope someone sees this and has a thought or two!

 

[VR6GURU]

Hope someone sees this and has a thought or two!

I ordered a Skar Audio 6.5" subwoofer. Wired it in sequence to make it 8 ohm. The fit was basically plug and play, I only needed to modify the sub enclosure by shaving down the ridges inside. The sound is so much better now. The trade off is I have a bit of rattle on songs with heavy bass so I will investigate to see what I can tighten down to minimize the rattle.

https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-EVL-65-D4-Subwoofer/dp/B019WYPLIA/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.1ac62dee-1169-4bf4-91b9-84fe33c930b1%3Aamzn1.sym.1ac62dee-1169-4bf4-91b9-84fe33c930b1&crid=GXDZBFMDP3IQ&cv_ct_cx=skar%2Baudio%2B6.5%2Bspeakers&keywords=skar%2Baudio%2B6.5%2Bspeakers&pd_rd_i=B019WYPLIA&pd_rd_r=f5859d85-e502-436a-9349-c110bb8a4dbf&pd_rd_w=X23oC&pd_rd_wg=4VB0J&pf_rd_p=1ac62dee-1169-4bf4-91b9-84fe33c930b1&pf_rd_r=5XYDFKHFXY8QN7A4JXE6&qid=1742694419&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=skar%2Ba%2Caps%2C208&sr=1-1-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&smid=A2JVCW1GQY516A&th=1

video I used to change it.

 

[CSG1]

Thank you for posting your experience. I really would like to find a replacement that would not require any modding.

 

[DadWagonLX]

You're going to want to check out Parts Express: Speakers, Amplifiers, Audio Parts and Solutions - https://www.parts-express.com/. Most 6.5 subs typically struggle to fit in the small factory box. You'll likely have better luck looking for a woofer component speaker. With that being said, a bolt in, no mod, no trim replacement with confirmed improvement over a refoamed ML sub, I have yet to identify. (I've spent countless hours looking into this)
Many people have modded to run the SKAR, but it's poorly optimized by the Mark Lev amp. You're likely looking at about 30 watts RMS to power the sub. The SKAR is rated for 200... it will work, but probably be underwhelming to anyone with an ear for audio. On top of that, the factory setup is tough to produce deep/loud bass. There's just not enough air to move and power from the factory amp. The ML speakers were all designed and balanced to create a good sound.
From the research I have done and searching through IH8MUD, here are some general specs I would recommend.

Factory flange mounting spec found in a different thread: Thanks Pucker5
Ring spec: 6.75" outside diameter flange, 5.75" inside diameter flange = 0.5" flange width = 6.25" centerline of screws His Suggestion

Parts Express Search Filters/Specs
Diameter: 6.5 inch
Depth: 3 inches (SKAR sub is 3.52 requiring trimming the webbing on the back of the sub box to fit.)
Ohm: 8 (Or 4 if you find a dual voice option like the SKAR above)
RMS: 30-40

My Current Pick

RMS rating of 30, High sensitivity of 94.8 dB and a 4.6 XMAX. I'd like to think this is about as good as it gets. But Pricey.

Cheaper 2nd Pick

This woofer seems to have the specs to be an improvement and match system capabilities. Bang for buck.

Should Bolt In

Specs not as desirable to me, but the mounting flange looks like it matches the factory speaker pretty closely. Specs are okay. I'd assume it's next to bolt in.

Hope this helps!

 

[rbrave]

I’ll summarize what all of those pages say about replacing the stock with stock: your only improvement is less blown speaker sound. If you want an upgrade, do the mod with the SKAR or bite the bullet and add a dedicated subwoofer in a real box. If you want to fix the original, do a reform for under $20.

Part numbers, for you to look up how expensive they were and find that buying an OEM replacement is expensive (had to buy the entire assembly, from what I understand) and discontinued:

Landcruiser (00-07) 86150-0W020
Lexus LX470 Non-ML (98-01) 86150-60080

I can’t find the one for the ML, but same idea.

 

[VR6GURU]

Thank you for posting your experience. I really would like to find a replacement that would not require any modding.

The modding is really a non issue. Took just a few minutes to get rid of the grooves with a plier.

Now my car sounds really good.

 

[CSG1]

The modding is really a non issue. Took just a few minutes to get rid of the grooves with a plier.

Now my car sounds really good.

Thank you. You mentioned some rattle on "heavy" bass. Have you got that sorted yet? As I mentioned, I always had my bass down a couple notches anyway as I seem to be bass adverse. My main goal is to restore the balance from having all the speakers working. After driving this thing for 15 years, I can't get used to just the front speakers.

 

[ColonelJLloyd]

I ordered this 50w/80w Visaton sub from Parts Express, but I am considered returning it for the Skar wired in series. DadWagon, however, does make a valid point above about the OEM ML amp not having the power to get the most out of the Skar.

 

[CSG1]

I ordered this 50w/80w Visaton sub from Parts Express, but I am considered returning it for the Skar wired in series. DadWagon, however, does make a valid point above about the OEM ML amp not having the power to get the most out of the Skar.

Again, my goal here is to simply fit a woofer, not, specifically, a sub. I'm a midrange guy. Apparently, there's not a direct replacement size woofer of the correct ohms available without some sort of modding or installing a sub amp? I hope you all will forgive my ignorance here, as at home, I live in the world of two bookshelf speaker stereo w/o subs.

 

[VR6GURU]

I ordered this 50w/80w Visaton sub from Parts Express, but I am considered returning it for the Skar wired in series. DadWagon, however, does make a valid point above about the OEM ML amp not having the power to get the most out of the Skar.

If thats the case. Then check this one off to ignorance is bliss, because my skar sub bumps really hard.

OP. If you go my route I would also shave off some of the tabs around the sub cover. I wish I had done that to minimize the chance of rattle. Dont know what kind of music you listen to but if it's not very heavy on bass you'll be OK. I just noticed that Ben build a custom sub cover that I will most likely buy and give it a shot.

 

[CSG1]

If thats the case. Then check this one off to ignorance is bliss, because my skar sub bumps really hard.

OP. If you go my route I would also shave off some of the tabs around the sub cover. I wish I had done that to minimize the chance of rattle. Dont know what kind of music you listen to but if it's not very heavy on bass you'll be OK. I just noticed that Ben build a custom sub cover that I will most likely buy and give it a shot.

I listen to a wide variety of music in the car, primarily off Pandora streaming through one of those FM transmitters plugged into the lighter or 12v outlet (don't remember which) but none of it is bass heavy, at least with my audio settings. Jazz, Steely Dan, Larry Carlton, 60's-70's rock, and similar.

 

[ColonelJLloyd]

Again, my goal here is to simply fit a woofer, not, specifically, a sub. I'm a midrange guy. Apparently, there's not a direct replacement size woofer of the correct ohms available without some sort of modding or installing a sub amp? I hope you all will forgive my ignorance here, as at home, I live in the world of two bookshelf speaker stereo w/o subs.

Sorry, I was just adding a data point for future readers.

Maybe I'm missing something particular about the sub enclosure, but Parts Express has several 8 ohm 6.5" mid range and full range woofers, including the one DadWagon linked in post #5. FWIW, I do not listen to bass-centric music.

Impedance, Nominal Diameter

Need the perfect woofer? The fantastic selection at Parts Express includes all of the best loudspeaker brands, with a full variety of sizes and materials.

www.parts-express.com

I installed this speaker in the front passenger door over the weekend, but have decided that even though this is a somewhat seldom driven vehicle for me, music is so important to me that I deserve a higher quality speaker. Happy to send it to you for the cost of shipping if you want to give it a whirl in your sub enclosure.

Visaton BG17-8 6.5" Full-Range Speaker with Whizzer Cone 8 Ohm

Visaton BG17-8 6.5" Full-Range Speaker with Whizzer Cone 8 OhmThe 3017 BG17 full-range speaker from Visaton is designed with a relatively flat frequency response and high output, using a paper cone with whizzer cone and treated paper accordion surround. Typical applications for the BG17 include...

www.parts-express.com

 

[CSG1]

You're going to want to check out Parts Express: Speakers, Amplifiers, Audio Parts and Solutions - https://www.parts-express.com/. Most 6.5 subs typically struggle to fit in the small factory box. You'll likely have better luck looking for a woofer component speaker. With that being said, a bolt in, no mod, no trim replacement with confirmed improvement over a refoamed ML sub, I have yet to identify. (I've spent countless hours looking into this)
Many people have modded to run the SKAR, but it's poorly optimized by the Mark Lev amp. You're likely looking at about 30 watts RMS to power the sub. The SKAR is rated for 200... it will work, but probably be underwhelming to anyone with an ear for audio. On top of that, the factory setup is tough to produce deep/loud bass. There's just not enough air to move and power from the factory amp. The ML speakers were all designed and balanced to create a good sound.
From the research I have done and searching through IH8MUD, here are some general specs I would recommend.

Factory flange mounting spec found in a different thread: Thanks Pucker5
Ring spec: 6.75" outside diameter flange, 5.75" inside diameter flange = 0.5" flange width = 6.25" centerline of screws His Suggestion

Parts Express Search Filters/Specs
Diameter: 6.5 inch
Depth: 3 inches (SKAR sub is 3.52 requiring trimming the webbing on the back of the sub box to fit.)
Ohm: 8 (Or 4 if you find a dual voice option like the SKAR above)
RMS: 30-40

My Current Pick

RMS rating of 30, High sensitivity of 94.8 dB and a 4.6 XMAX. I'd like to think this is about as good as it gets. But Pricey.

Cheaper 2nd Pick

This woofer seems to have the specs to be an improvement and match system capabilities. Bang for buck.

Should Bolt In

Specs not as desirable to me, but the mounting flange looks like it matches the factory speaker pretty closely. Specs are okay. I'd assume it's next to bolt in.

Hope this helps!

Thank you, DW, I missed your response. A lot of leads here!

 

[CSG1]

Sorry, I was just adding a data point for future readers.

Maybe I'm missing something particular about the sub enclosure, but Parts Express has several 8 ohm 6.5" mid range and full range woofers, including the one DadWagon linked in post #5. FWIW, I do not listen to bass-centric music.

Impedance, Nominal Diameter

Need the perfect woofer? The fantastic selection at Parts Express includes all of the best loudspeaker brands, with a full variety of sizes and materials.

www.parts-express.com

Thanks. I missed DW's post above. I will dig into it a little more. I have little confidence in me being able to remove the side panel and reinstall it correctly. The actual replacing of the speaker doesn't put me off any as I mess with home audio. Maybe I'm overly worried about dealing with the panel?

 

[CSG1]

You're going to want to check out Parts Express: Speakers, Amplifiers, Audio Parts and Solutions - https://www.parts-express.com/. Most 6.5 subs typically struggle to fit in the small factory box. You'll likely have better luck looking for a woofer component speaker. With that being said, a bolt in, no mod, no trim replacement with confirmed improvement over a refoamed ML sub, I have yet to identify. (I've spent countless hours looking into this)
Many people have modded to run the SKAR, but it's poorly optimized by the Mark Lev amp. You're likely looking at about 30 watts RMS to power the sub. The SKAR is rated for 200... it will work, but probably be underwhelming to anyone with an ear for audio. On top of that, the factory setup is tough to produce deep/loud bass. There's just not enough air to move and power from the factory amp. The ML speakers were all designed and balanced to create a good sound.
From the research I have done and searching through IH8MUD, here are some general specs I would recommend.

Factory flange mounting spec found in a different thread: Thanks Pucker5
Ring spec: 6.75" outside diameter flange, 5.75" inside diameter flange = 0.5" flange width = 6.25" centerline of screws His Suggestion

Parts Express Search Filters/Specs
Diameter: 6.5 inch
Depth: 3 inches (SKAR sub is 3.52 requiring trimming the webbing on the back of the sub box to fit.)
Ohm: 8 (Or 4 if you find a dual voice option like the SKAR above)
RMS: 30-40

My Current Pick

RMS rating of 30, High sensitivity of 94.8 dB and a 4.6 XMAX. I'd like to think this is about as good as it gets. But Pricey.

Cheaper 2nd Pick

This woofer seems to have the specs to be an improvement and match system capabilities. Bang for buck.

Should Bolt In

Specs not as desirable to me, but the mounting flange looks like it matches the factory speaker pretty closely. Specs are okay. I'd assume it's next to bolt in.

Hope this helps!

If that Dayton fits, the price is fine. I will check with P-E tomorrow and see if I can find someone who might further point me towards the best option for a direct replacement. Thanks for taking the time to link these!

 

[ColonelJLloyd]

Regarding the panel removal: I haven't done it myself yet, but I have done similar and, like most things, it comes down to organization (don't lose parts), preparedness (have the correct tools), and execution (do not rush or otherwise put yourself in a position to compromise). I'll be watching this video before the operation.

Land Cruiser Rear Window MOLLE Panel | 100 Series - Lexus LX470 (98-07) - Victory 4x4

Offering quality steel and aluminum goods for Toyota and Lexus 4x4s.

www.victory4x4.com

 

[CSG1]

Regarding the panel removal: I haven't done it myself yet, but I have done similar and, like most things, it comes down to organization (don't lose parts), preparedness (have the correct tools), and execution (do not rush or otherwise put yourself in a position to compromise). I'll be watching this video before the operation.

Land Cruiser Rear Window MOLLE Panel | 100 Series - Lexus LX470 (98-07) - Victory 4x4

Offering quality steel and aluminum goods for Toyota and Lexus 4x4s.

www.victory4x4.com

Yeah but that's exactly why I don't do this stuff. Like Clint once said, "A man's got to know his limitations." Having just watched the important part of that video, it really doesn't look to difficult but still...

 

[baltistyle]

refoam, 65 dollars and some time. New lx ml woofer for ease 500+. Likely looking at a small repair bills from a stereo shop, or a large repair bill from a dealer. Plus, if the sub is done, the others likely need the foam as well. If you could diy or have a family member than can, its 65 bucks and a few hours time.

 

[CSG1]

refoam, 65 dollars and some time. New lx ml woofer for ease 500+. Likely looking at a small repair bills from a stereo shop, or a large repair bill from a dealer. Plus, if the sub is done, the others likely need the foam as well. If you could diy or have a family member than can, its 65 bucks and a few hours time.

Thanks for the additional thoughts. I hoped I'd find some good info here so I really appreciate you guys weighing in. I'm gonna have to think this through a little more. It's not so much the money as it's trying to do it easy but proper. Like I said, this has been my daily driver for 15 years and I have no plans to replace it. Other than gas (and the timing chain at about 100k), it costs me very little to drive and living where I do in Idaho, it's about the perfect rig. We have few resources locally - a Best Buy, two indie car audio shops, and the local Toyota dealer. I have mixed feelings with all of them.