Repaint / resale question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

CA Cruisin

CA Cruisin

10 Year
Joined
May 19, 2013
Threads
24
Messages
274
Location
So. Cal.
Website
www.goldendolphinfilms.com
I have a '99 with pretty low miles I may be selling once I find a newer LC sometime down the road - it's from what I gather a pretty desirable color, River Rock and has the rear locker and A/C, etc. But the paint on the hood and roof is unfortunately going - my question for the forum is, would you rather buy a car that looks great (ie. I may repaint it) or, one that's original and not so hot-looking so you can take care of it yourself?

Thanks for weighing in.
 
I am of the same opinion, I don't mind work done on the vehicle as long as it is of good quality. Just don't expect to be able to boost the sell value enough to recoup the cost of the paint job.
 
Thanks for weighing in, it's useful. I'd definitely have an excellent paint job done - being rather obsessed with quality, appearance and color-matching. Out of the quotes I've received, I'm leaning toward the most or 2nd-most expensive. Definitely wouldn't expect to recoup, esp. on a '99...
 
If it's just the hood and roof, they can do those items and blend it in with the rest of the body. I have had a couple of body guys tell me this and they do it all the time. It would be less money too. I have done this before and it turned out great.
 
Agreed with arcteryx. Take it to a good spot have the problems done and blended inn won't cost a fortune and will help. Key as in with anything is prep


Sent from my iPhone

2005 Lexus LX470
 
like others have said, don't do this expecting to recoup or boost your resale value. if you're going to drive it for a while and want it for yourself, then go for it, and just do the hood/problem areas and have the shop blend to the existing paint. hood is fairly inexpensive b/c VERY little prep required since it can just be pulled from the vehicle, sanded/sprayed versus having the whole truck in the paint-booth.
 
a inexpensive paint job, and i mean only paint, no dings, dent, panel alignment, etc will run 8-10k. Blending semi metalic paints can be very difficult to accomplish correctly. I had some fisheyes in my Cuda fenders, wanted them resprayed to be perfect, no dents, year old paint on the car all around and that ran me 2k. that was "driver quality" not a show paint job. painting it will eat into your sale margin by 50%.
 
If you do paint, make sure the shop doesn't record the work against the VIN so it doesn't show up on CARFAX. If it shows up on the reporting services, I think it will be worth less as a trade-in because dealers will call it a "re-spray". At least that was my experience with my '93. Private sale might not matter so much.
 
Sandroad said:
If you do paint, make sure the shop doesn't record the work against the VIN so it doesn't show up on CARFAX. If it shows up on the reporting services, I think it will be worth less as a trade-in because dealers will call it a "re-spray". At least that was my experience with my '93. Private sale might not matter so much.
Click to expand...

Sandroad, this is solid info. Thank you so much. It wouldn't have occurred to me unless you shared your experience! :beer:
 
I wouldn't look at a vehicle with pealing paint. I will look at a vehicle with a respray, but it better be done in a manner in which I don't notice. If I can see the respray I'll also probably pass.
 
Emcd said:
Honestly, you could probably buff out most of the oxidation. Or, at least remove 75% off the paint issues for a couple hundo.
Click to expand...

Highly doubtful. Every time I have asked a detailer about this they say it can't be done and paint is needed. Maybe the detailer is not as good as they advertise, but I have asked 4-5 different ones and all say paint is required.

That said, a little oxidation doesn't bother me. In fact, it means that the truck is almost assuredly 100% rust free. It's very common here in Texas where it's hot and dry. My 80 has this and I have no plans to get it painted at this time
 
Emcd said:
Honestly, you could probably buff out most of the oxidation. Or, at least remove 75% off the paint issues for a couple hundo.
Click to expand...

I am guessing the clear coat is dying, not oxidizing. Once the clear coat gives up, your choices are to live with it, or find paint that you can afford AND live with.

It is hard to beat factory paint job, because it takes so much prep to duplicate the coverage that the factory got.

And yes, a good painter can blend, but if the rest of the paint is old, you need some pretty detailing after the paint to spruce up the original. Otherwise, you can see the transitions...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom