semlin
curmudgeon
I am going to remove, sandblast and re-paint my somewhat rusty trailer hitch reciver. I have no compressor so is there a torque setting for the bolts when they go back in, or should I just go get a mechanic to air them up tight.
removing trailer hitch (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter semlin
- Start date
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Semlin,
Do NOT air them up tight. These bolts go into captured nuts in the frame. You don't want to strip out these nuts! These bolts are torqued at 70 ft/lbs when you install the Slee rear bumper. That is the torque you should use for the trailer hitch.
Since you indicate your hitch is rusted, you will likely find these bolts are rusted. It will be difficult to get PB Blaster to the fastener. Bill posted an excellent description on how to remove stubborn fasteners. Find that and memorize it 'cause you're going to need it.
-B-
(Now with drilled, tapped to 1/2", and properly torqued rear bumper bolt.)
Do NOT air them up tight. These bolts go into captured nuts in the frame. You don't want to strip out these nuts! These bolts are torqued at 70 ft/lbs when you install the Slee rear bumper. That is the torque you should use for the trailer hitch.
Since you indicate your hitch is rusted, you will likely find these bolts are rusted. It will be difficult to get PB Blaster to the fastener. Bill posted an excellent description on how to remove stubborn fasteners. Find that and memorize it 'cause you're going to need it.
-B-
(Now with drilled, tapped to 1/2", and properly torqued rear bumper bolt.)
