removing the egr and pair vsv's (10 Viewers)
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Great info.
I'm just in the process of removing all the charcoal canister and associated valves under the inlet manifold on my non egr aussie spec fzj80 as part of my turbo build.
I've been drilling and tapping unused ports on the manifold and inserting stainless grub screws witch has been working well.
Couple of quick questions...Once all this is removed other the the FPR what else requires vacume lines?
Secondly does anyone see any issue with me running the the tank breather to my catch can witch the pcv and valve cover breather are going to then vented to airbox?
I also have non egr exhaust manifolds and 94 non egr ecu I no longer require if anyone interested let me know.
I'll post some info on my build when time permits
I'm just in the process of removing all the charcoal canister and associated valves under the inlet manifold on my non egr aussie spec fzj80 as part of my turbo build.
I've been drilling and tapping unused ports on the manifold and inserting stainless grub screws witch has been working well.
Couple of quick questions...Once all this is removed other the the FPR what else requires vacume lines?
Secondly does anyone see any issue with me running the the tank breather to my catch can witch the pcv and valve cover breather are going to then vented to airbox?
I also have non egr exhaust manifolds and 94 non egr ecu I no longer require if anyone interested let me know.
I'll post some info on my build when time permits
The egr system was designed separately from the engine so it can be removed easily. It's basically a bolt on system for emissions laws.
I believe the only thing that needs vacuum is the FPR, the brake booster and the PCV system. If you are running a turbo, DO NOT plumb the PCV hoses back into the intake system. Vent them into a separate catch that vents to the atmosphere.
I believe the only thing that needs vacuum is the FPR, the brake booster and the PCV system. If you are running a turbo, DO NOT plumb the PCV hoses back into the intake system. Vent them into a separate catch that vents to the atmosphere.
I had read alot vent directly into the airbox after the catch can but I'm open to either option.
Why do you suggest not venting to airbox?
Don't know if I saw this mentioned in this thread. When you put the plate over the egr hole in the head you'll want to use the bolts that held the pair valve on as the egr ones are too long and you don't wanna mess with those bolts back there twice like I did.
Great writeup! Did a total desmog (deleted PAIR, EGR and charcoal canister, and everything under the intake) over the long Labor Day weekend on my '93 FZJ. I also refreshed the coolant system and performed the rear heater delete. I got everything pretty well figured out and was able to remove the EGR valve and pipe and installed block off plates at the intake and the head cut from some 1/8" scrap steel i had laying around. For the vacuum, i have it all whittled down to the FPR, brake booster, and the PCV. For the FPR, i just ran a vacuum hose to the open port on the intake like this:
bsmart82 stated that he did this. I have a few more checklist items to do before i fire her up and am hoping I got this right. Anyone see any issue with how i ran this? The other option i have is to run the line under the intake to another port that is currently plugged.
bsmart82 stated that he did this. I have a few more checklist items to do before i fire her up and am hoping I got this right. Anyone see any issue with how i ran this? The other option i have is to run the line under the intake to another port that is currently plugged.
I am reviving this thread in an effort to keep this information in one place.
I am in the process of deleting my EGR and PAIR completely. I would like to keep the EVAP if possible. Can anyone tell me which components and vacuum lines need to stay to achieve this? Will I need to keep the big blue/black vacuum modulator? Removing the intake is such a huge PIA I need to somehow make sure I'm going to get this right the first time but I'm completely lost.
TIA!!!
I am in the process of deleting my EGR and PAIR completely. I would like to keep the EVAP if possible. Can anyone tell me which components and vacuum lines need to stay to achieve this? Will I need to keep the big blue/black vacuum modulator? Removing the intake is such a huge PIA I need to somehow make sure I'm going to get this right the first time but I'm completely lost.
TIA!!!
easy answer is get 95-97 manifolds of you dont plan on moving your o2 sensors into the manifolds to delete the pair system. you could also fill the egr port on cyl 6 with weld and flat grind that smooth to delete the egr. easier egr delete is just unplug the temp sensor and route the vacuum lines back to themselves, modulator line loops back to the modulator.
youll be able to keep the evap system vacuum lines in place with no problems
youll be able to keep the evap system vacuum lines in place with no problems
I really should have provided more background. I got this 80 for 4k a few weeks back and have been working on getting it back on the road. The frame is great for a new england rig but it had it's fair share of issues. As far as the manifolds are concerned someone decided to install aftermarket headers that had no port off the end for the EGR. Because of this I really have no choice whether I want the EGR or not. I smoke tested the intake and also discovered that nearly all of the EGR components were leaking air along with many of the lines under the manifold. As a result I have done the following to eliminate the system:
1. Removed the EGR pipe, cut it back to the base, and welded it closed. I reinstalled it on the back of the head with a new gasket. It's now permanently blocked.
2. Removed, sliced, and welded the EGR valve itself to fashion another block off. That will block the port on the intake manifold.
3. To do all of this I removed the upper half of the intake manifold and am now staring at all of the vacuum lines.
I would like to eliminate every vacuum line, VSV, and check valve etc. that I can to eliminate as many sources for vac leaks as I can. Others in this thread have gone one step further deleting the EVAP system as well. In that case every line under the manifold is basically removed, a vac line is run from the FPR to the intake, another from the booster to the intake, and the PCV lines remain. That is as simple as it gets.
The one thing I would like to leave in place is the EVAP. I just don't want the garage to smell like gas. I have a race car that's vented to atmosphere and it does smell. If it were just me in this house I'd probably just delete it but alas I have roommates aka my family lol.
So the EVAP system should basically just consist of a vacuum line that runs from the charcoal canister to an EVAP solenoid valve and another line up to the intake. What's confusing me though is the line from the canister has a y in it and then two lines go on from there to other components. I am trying to figure out what does what and what I need keep or delete. I can see if I can get some photos later, that would probably be helpful.
1. Removed the EGR pipe, cut it back to the base, and welded it closed. I reinstalled it on the back of the head with a new gasket. It's now permanently blocked.
2. Removed, sliced, and welded the EGR valve itself to fashion another block off. That will block the port on the intake manifold.
3. To do all of this I removed the upper half of the intake manifold and am now staring at all of the vacuum lines.
I would like to eliminate every vacuum line, VSV, and check valve etc. that I can to eliminate as many sources for vac leaks as I can. Others in this thread have gone one step further deleting the EVAP system as well. In that case every line under the manifold is basically removed, a vac line is run from the FPR to the intake, another from the booster to the intake, and the PCV lines remain. That is as simple as it gets.
The one thing I would like to leave in place is the EVAP. I just don't want the garage to smell like gas. I have a race car that's vented to atmosphere and it does smell. If it were just me in this house I'd probably just delete it but alas I have roommates aka my family lol.
So the EVAP system should basically just consist of a vacuum line that runs from the charcoal canister to an EVAP solenoid valve and another line up to the intake. What's confusing me though is the line from the canister has a y in it and then two lines go on from there to other components. I am trying to figure out what does what and what I need keep or delete. I can see if I can get some photos later, that would probably be helpful.
i left my charcoal canister out to atmosphere and didnt have any fuel smell, others have taken the line from the tank to the canister and made a small charcoal filter with aquarium charcoal and a gutted inline fuel filter
What year is your 80? If you have a late OBDII truck, then I think you have to solve the issue of the EGR temp sensor throwing a check engine code. Someone with an OBDII truck can probably elaborate, but I think the ECU needs to see a temp increase from this sensor or it throws a code. My 1994 also has an EGR temp sensor, but if you short the two wires together, it will think it is up to temp.
hes got the pair system so its a 93 or 94, obd1 truck.
is there a definitive solution (thread) to removing all the EGR and Vapor canister systems with out throwing codes on a 97? with pictures preferably
Can you elaborate?
93-94 have the pair system, the pair pushes air into the exhaust system to help heat up the cats quicker and this is done via the exhaust manifolds. you can see where the ports are just by following the hard lines coming off the pair valve. those ports are also the same size as the o2 sensor, some people like to mount them higher up in the exhast system so then dont get damaged by rocks and whatnot.
95-97 is the same manifold only without the port for the pair, its a direct bolt up no modifications needed. cyl 6 feeds the egr system via the exhaust manifold. the 6 cyl runner is a little elongated to route the exhaust back through the head to the egr system. the manifolds are cast iron so they can be welded, you can fill in the manifold over the egr port area to block it off and use a non-us spec manifold gasket to seal everything up. flat grinding will give a flat smooth sealing surface.
i dont have any pics from when i replaced the manifolds but itll be a lot easier to understand if you can get a visual on the manifolds
Thank you, I somewhat understand. Ultimately, do I have to take off my intake manifold to cap all the lines down under or can I just circulate it @ the top & intake once I’ve moved the 02’s uptop & call it done? I have a 93, 80 & I’m having the time of my life bringing her back to life
i left all of those vsv in place and just looped the vacuum lines up top back to themselves or used caps to finish the delete
Fj80oregon
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Here is a pic of a 95-97 exhaust manifold you can see where the pair valve ports would go if it where a 93-94.
