Removing the Diff, what else?

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The air lines on my FJ40 survived everything except time, I want to say 7 or 8 years. Eventually the plastic got brittle and cracked right where the stem goes in (old style fitting they are different now). The original installer didn't leave me any service loop so I had to run a whole new line.

That said the line on the 100 front diff is MUCH harder to access than the diffs on my FJ40, I would strongly recommend the SS braid lines Spresso used.
A closer look at mine reveals either my installer didn't install this "coil" or the coil has rode up the line to where I can't see it. This is exactly where it's leaking. :doh:
131_1007_09+arb_locking_differential+compressor_air_line.webp
 
A closer look at mine reveals either my installer didn't install this "coil" or the coil has rode up the line to where I can't see it. This is exactly where it's leaking. :doh:
That would do it. You can buy a push to lock stye splice from ARB which will let you do a quick fix. The guys at ARB USA are amazing the service I've had from them is always excellent, give them a call and they will hook you up.
 
sleeoffroad said:
As soon as you remove the pinion nut to replace the seal, you have disturbed the pinion preload. The correct way to set it up then is the same measuring technique as setting it up from scratch. If you are going to replace the seal, you might as well inspect the pinion bearings as well and set up with a fresh crush sleeve.

The only time we will replace the seal and not do that, is if the diff is in the truck and the customer does not want to pay for removal. Even then we have a huge disclaimer on it.

Ran the lockers front/rear plus plenty of open diff around town driving today. Everything seems buttery smooth. Not sure how Texican pulled it off but the system seems to be running very well.

Christo- what are the symptoms when a pinion bearing is out of spec?
 
Ran the lockers front/rear plus plenty of open diff around town driving today. Everything seems buttery smooth. Not sure how Texican pulled it off but the system seems to be running very well.

:cheers:
 
jasonbraswell said:
Ran the lockers front/rear plus plenty of open diff around town driving today. Everything seems buttery smooth. Not sure how Texican pulled it off but the system seems to be running very well.

Christo- what are the symptoms when a pinion bearing is out of spec?

A good gear guy can do a pinion seal and nut and reuse the crush spacer. I've seen it done. Not the best option, but doable. Or, they throw a new one in and set preload.
 
hoser said:
A closer look at mine reveals either my installer didn't install this "coil" or the coil has rode up the line to where I can't see it. This is exactly where it's leaking. :doh:

I had that same exact issue. The air compressor would not shut off with the front locker engaged so I poked around and found then coil not seated. A gentle pull on the line and it popped right out of its housing. Luckily it was a $.39 fix (ferrule) .
 
A good gear guy can do a pinion seal and nut and reuse the crush spacer. I've seen it done. Not the best option, but doable. Or, they throw a new one in and set preload.
Beno, price on the crush spacer? If it's not much, I'd rather just add it to my recent order and have it in hand just in case the gear guy is able to go that way (setting the preload and all).
 
A good gear guy can do a pinion seal and nut and reuse the crush spacer. I've seen it done. Not the best option, but doable. Or, they throw a new one in and set preload.

Yes, but setting preload to the correct spec is not possible with the carrier in the third member. Yes, it can be done, but then the onus is on the installer. Not saying it can not be done, just saying that if the diff is out for a regear and/or ARB install and you are going to replace the pinion seal, you might as well set it up from scratch and get it to spec.

Loosing pinion preload can cause a number of issues, worst is ring and pinion breaking when under load.
 
Yes, but setting preload to the correct spec is not possible with the carrier in the third member. Yes, it can be done, but then the onus is on the installer. Not saying it can not be done, just saying that if the diff is out for a regear and/or ARB install and you are going to replace the pinion seal, you might as well set it up from scratch and get it to spec.

Loosing pinion preload can cause a number of issues, worst is ring and pinion breaking when under load.

Yup. All very true.
 
I did not disturb either one of Jason's pinion nuts, the seals were fine, that said, anyone that has done as many diffs as I have can reset pinion preload easily, and I have the correct gauges to test and set it....as long as you do not go too far, that is too tight. then you are locked into resetting with new crush sleave.
 
I'm going to order a crush spacer just to have on hand, depending the price.

Tomorrow morning a friend and I are tearing down the front, diff and rack. Should be fun...I'm prepared for a tool run if needed for that beach of a rack.

Wish us luck.
 
It has been gutted. I cut the resonator off too.

With the steering knuckle removed, and the ball joints just sitting there with 160K on them, I'm thinking of new uppers now. I'm also thinking that new tie rod ends would be wise also. Then I can keep the old ones as trail spares.

parts.jpg
 
Now ain't that purdy!

A refurbished rack from the one and only CVJ Axles here in Denver, and an expensive little package of poly. Hope that was worth it.

It goes in this weekend.

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Diff is at Slee (thanks, Christo, for the advice on this thread)

Steering rack went back in this morning with its new bushings. That was definitely a sucky job. I had help getting it out, but it was just me getting in. I don't suggest that.
 
All back together.

I am surprised that the air port at the diff is installed at the bottom, where totally exposed.

Is this the normal location for the ARB locker air line on a 100 series?

IMG_20120316_135415.jpg
 
The fitting on mine is on top of the diff. Tough to access without dropping the diff...but very well protected.
 
All back together.

I am surprised that the air port at the diff is installed at the bottom, where totally exposed.

Is this the normal location for the ARB locker air line on a 100 series?


Crap man... you installed it upside down!!!!

















J/K. Like PK mentioned above, it should be covered by the skids. I have the BOIR skids, so I would be ok with it.
 
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