Removing the Diff, what else?

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5Cruiser

5Cruiser

Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Threads
25
Messages
234
Location
Colorado
I'm going to put my 99 LC under the knife. I'm removing the front diff (third member) completely to take in for an ARB locker install. This means the whole front end is going to be wide open.

I've also got a leak where a hose connects to my rack and pinion.
I'd also like to install new rack bushings.

My thought is that I should maximize the access I am going to have to the rig with the whole front diff removed. I should do all the maintenance, upgrades, mods I can do in that region while the working will be easier.

What suggestions would you make?

What should I do?

Is there a way to test the rack for remaining life? If there's any time to replace the rack it's now...but how do I know if it's bad?

I'm going to re-regrease the front bearings while in there.

Check the front brakes (did those last year, so should be okay)

CV axles are new as of last year.

What other services should I do while I'm in there?

Please help me oh wise ones of the 100 that have gone before me. ;)
 
My front and rear diffs will be getting the lockers installed this week.
I just ordered the following from Beno:
carrier bearings
pinion seals
pinion nut
oil seals

Not replacing the pinion bearings though.

Maybe a few other misc stuff, but I don't have the invoice from American Toyota yet.

Call Beno and he can give you specifics.
 
Track down that rack leak. I'm willing to bet its not at the fitting but at the steering shaft input. Both mine 98, 200k miles, and my dads, 01 170kmiles leak from this location.

I just replaced my rack and lower ball joints, and I did the poly rack bushings while I was there.

If you are spending ARB money, may want to check out that rack. It's a royal pita, but while you are there it could be less of a pain.
 
Subscribed
 
Even though there are thousands of guys running lockers with the compression fittings and plain plastic air line I had a local hydraulic shop make me a braided SS line to run from the locker to the compressor for a tougher and more heat resistant line to the locker.

Like you Paul I was concerned about trail debris, sage brush, etc., pulling on the line. With our sage brush covered land out here I figured it was good insurance; I'd do it again the same way...knock on wood its been trouble free since '06 when it was installed.

YMMV.
 
Not much help this far removed Les...but I think the ARB fitting on the diff side is BSA...not sure of the diameter.
 
Ordered my locker yesterday. Should have it in about two weeks. That gives me time to start dismantling the rig.

Excited, I am.
 
jasonbraswell said:
My front and rear diffs will be getting the lockers installed this week.
I just ordered the following from Beno:
carrier bearings
pinion seals
pinion nut
oil seals

Not replacing the pinion bearings though.

Maybe a few other misc stuff, but I don't have the invoice from American Toyota yet.

Call Beno and he can give you specifics.
Click to expand...

PM sent to Beno.

What is the pinion seal and pinion nut? I don't see those in the FSM?
 
Okay, I've got to seriously plug the member Beno.

I just got off the phone making my order with "Beno", Onur at American Toyota in AZ.

I hardly ever order anything to be shipped to me. I like feeling and touching things before I buy. I've heard so much about this guy and how well he treats the Mud members, service, etc, so on.

So I gave it a chance...a change from my old run down to the local Toyota parts store.

IN ONE SINGLE BEARING, HIS PRICE COVERED ALL THE SHIPPING COSTS AND PUT $4 IN MY POCKET. He was so helpful discussing my upcoming project and getting me in good shape with the "little stuff" I should do while I handle this big project. I also saved a ton of money. Far better than any experience I've had buying parts in person!

THANKS BENO!! YOU'VE GOT A NEW CUSTOMER!!
 
jasonbraswell said:
My front and rear diffs will be getting the lockers installed this week.
I just ordered the following from Beno:
carrier bearings
pinion seals
pinion nut
oil seals

Not replacing the pinion bearings though.

Maybe a few other misc stuff, but I don't have the invoice from American Toyota yet.

Call Beno and he can give you specifics.
Click to expand...

Crush Sleeve? If you are putting ARB's in and you are replacing the pinion seal, you pretty much resetting the whole diff so you might as well go all the way and do a new crush sleeve as well. Unless your installer can measure pinion preload and then redo to the same or slightly more.
 
spressomon said:
Even though there are thousands of guys running lockers with the compression fittings and plain plastic air line I had a local hydraulic shop make me a braided SS line to run from the locker to the compressor for a tougher and more heat resistant line to the locker.

Like you Paul I was concerned about trail debris, sage brush, etc., pulling on the line. With our sage brush covered land out here I figured it was good insurance; I'd do it again the same way...knock on wood its been trouble free since '06 when it was installed.

YMMV.
Click to expand...
The air lines on my FJ40 survived everything except time, I want to say 7 or 8 years. Eventually the plastic got brittle and cracked right where the stem goes in (old style fitting they are different now). The original installer didn't leave me any service loop so I had to run a whole new line.

That said the line on the 100 front diff is MUCH harder to access than the diffs on my FJ40, I would strongly recommend the SS braid lines Spresso used.
 
rusty_tlc said:
I would strongly recommend the SS braid lines Spresso used.
Click to expand...

Arrggg...compelling story though...

The possibilities for this project never end...but my money does.

Man...another $70+ for those SS lines...ouch... I am planning on keeping this rig for the long, long run, so it's definitely something worth considering.

So, here's a dumb question.
Does a hose come with the locker, or is that something I have to buy but didn't consider?

Slee, thanks for the note about the crush sleeve...I'll research that.
 
sleeoffroad said:
Crush Sleeve? If you are putting ARB's in and you are replacing the pinion seal, you pretty much resetting the whole diff so you might as well go all the way and do a new crush sleeve as well. Unless your installer can measure pinion preload and then redo to the same or slightly more.
Click to expand...

Will have to defer to Texican on this. He nor Beno brought this crush sleeve part up unless I am forgetting (the descriptions on the invoice from Mr T are not so descriptive), but I know the pinion bearing was not being reset due to difficulty of getting it back to spec. I thought about calling you or Ben before this install to do a quick parts check but the Cruiser just got back in the garage tonight with fresh lockers.

Texican got his 100 series cherry busted on this job.
 
jasonbraswell said:
Will have to defer to Texican on this. He nor Beno brought this crush sleeve part up unless I am forgetting (the descriptions on the invoice from Mr T are not so descriptive), but I know the pinion bearing was not being reset due to difficulty of getting it back to spec.
Click to expand...

As soon as you remove the pinion nut to replace the seal, you have disturbed the pinion preload. The correct way to set it up then is the same measuring technique as setting it up from scratch. If you are going to replace the seal, you might as well inspect the pinion bearings as well and set up with a fresh crush sleeve.

The only time we will replace the seal and not do that, is if the diff is in the truck and the customer does not want to pay for removal. Even then we have a huge disclaimer on it.
 
We have 100's of installs with the supplied blue line without issues. Routing is the key. The issue with stainless is that if you secure it that well on the diff side and you do snag it, you rip the bulhead out of the diff, then you have to take it apart to fix.

The blue line is easy to splice and will be the weak link in terms of getting snagged. Now on the front of the 100 since the line is not really exposed, a stainless line might make sense, but on the rear, you run the risk of it getting caught on something. Also easy to carry a hole coil of spare blue line and a couple of ends and splices.
 
sleeoffroad said:
Crush Sleeve? If you are putting ARB's in and you are replacing the pinion seal, you pretty much resetting the whole diff so you might as well go all the way and do a new crush sleeve as well. Unless your installer can measure pinion preload and then redo to the same or slightly more.
Click to expand...

I cannot find anything named a "crush sleeve" in the FSM. Though I am not doing the gearing, I sure want to be as familiar as possible.

I see a non-reusable part titled "bearing spacer", on the diff side of the rear bearing. Is this what you are talking about?
 
sleeoffroad said:
As soon as you remove the pinion nut to replace the seal, you have disturbed the pinion preload. The correct way to set it up then is the same measuring technique as setting it up from scratch. If you are going to replace the seal, you might as well inspect the pinion bearings as well and set up with a fresh crush sleeve.

The only time we will replace the seal and not do that, is if the diff is in the truck and the customer does not want to pay for removal. Even then we have a huge disclaimer on it.
Click to expand...

So let me see if I am following you correctly:

-You can install the ARB without upsetting the pinion nut and preload, but if you want to replace the pinion seal (been recommended to me), you might as well inspect the pinion bearings and replace the crush sleeve. Is that correct?

-I have also learned that the pinion bearings are expensive and no need to replace unless visibly worn. However the carrier bearings should go ahead and be replaced. Correct?
 
Yes, in the service manual that is referred to as a bearing spacer. It is a piece of tubing that starts collapsing when you tighten the pinion nut. That insures constant tension on the pinion bearings.

Some people replace this with a solid spacer with shims. In order to get the correct preload they change the shims until correct. That is the only way you can remove the pinion seal and set it back up to the same spec. However we have found other issues with the shims that is used with the solid spacers on the LC's and don't use them.
 
5Cruiser said:
So let me see if I am following you correctly:

-You can install the ARB without upsetting the pinion nut and preload, but if you want to replace the pinion seal (been recommended to me), you might as well inspect the pinion bearings and replace the crush sleeve. Is that correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, but that requires you setting up the pinion pre-load again. For that you need a torque meter (not to be confused with a torque wrench)

-I have also learned that the pinion bearings are expensive and no need to replace unless visibly worn. However the carrier bearings should go ahead and be replaced. Correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, you need special tools to remove the carrier bearing from the carrier without damaging it. Even then it is a crap shoot. Depending on the mileage it may or may not be worth it to re-use the bearings. In the ideal world, all bearings are replaced on higher mileage truck, in the 2nd to ideal world bearings and inspected and replaced if needed. In the 3rd ideal world, carrier bearings are inspected and re-used if needed and pinion is not disturbed when putting the ARB in. However you should still check the pinion preload when you have the carrier removed. If not in spec, it should be redone.
 
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