Removing stuck axle bearing races?

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I followed a trick someone suggested here on Mud way back when and it worked fantastic. But you need a old/used race. Then took a grinder to it and cut a slot out of the race leaving a 1/4 inch or so gap (allows race to flex/compress a little)... This cut race is then perfect for pounding out the old race's and installing the new race's w/out damaging the new one.
 
I GOT THEM OUT TODAY!!!! Funny how it happened. I broke the tip off the punch while trying to straighten out after bending it. The jagged end turned out to work like a charm!!! I just now owe my father in law a new punch.

I was able to get the brakes torn down and clean all the grease off my passenger side brake caliper. When I lost the bearing it melted the leaking grease and went everywhere. I also got a piece of scrap PVC pipe from Home Depot. I was able to sepperate my birf from the axle. Plus I bolted my drive shaft back in place. I had removed it months ago to try and prevent having to rebuild my axles while in school this year. Lots done today after being dead in the water for a few days. These are no major accomplishments for most of you. But to this unexperienced wrench ,I feal like Tom Hanks starting fire. TODAY WAS A GOOD DAY!
 
Good job. I bet the sound of those races hitting the floor made you happy :clap:
 
Good job - nice wrenching day, eh?

DougM
 
If I have learned anything on this project, it's nothing beats a good set of tools. Except maybe a good a hand cleaner.
 
If I have learned anything on this project, it's nothing beats a good set of tools. Except maybe a good a hand cleaner.

And....beer....

at least on the disassemble portion of the job. I recommend staying sober for reassemble. :D

EDIT: I noticed in Scott M's pic that he is using a brass punch to shoot out the races. Personally, I'm not sure if the brass punch will do a good enough job with a race that is really in there good. Since these will be disposables, I've always thought that a nice long steel punch and a BFH (2 pounder works wonders) really are quite adequate for the job.

Now, pushing out races in the hub is another deal...brass is good for this application considering how tight the hub is already.

-o-
 
I've always used brass for all races. Rather than a punch, I used advice I got here on Mud and bought a brass 3/8 diameter rod a couple feet long. A hacksaw makes quick work to get it into usable lengths. Then in use the trick is to know when the tips need to be sawn off (they flare with use) so you have a nice sharp edged tip to pound the races out with. Cheap and functional - downright LandCruiserish. I have a dual axle trailer under my boat that needs bearings/races about every other year. I've done about 5 full changeouts (that's 8 races per change) and 80 maintenance X2 for a decade with the brass rod.

DougM

DougM
 
... with the brass rod.

DougM

Brass rod. Good idea! I have a hard time to find a long brass punch for a reasonable price. Now with this alternative, I just have to find the way to get a grass rod. Thanks Doug. :cheers:
 
Brass rod's not cheap either, but if you have a buddy or two you can buy quite a length and split it. I think a 24" piece has been winnowed down by half after all that work. Nipping off 1/8" at the start of a job generally does it.

DougM
 
Mine are out and hopefully I wont be tearing back into them for a long time! Is it every 60,000 miles or 100,000 or when they start to leak?
 
some people have raved about the HF brass punches. Big and hefty (and inexpensive of course). I have not used mine yet for serious pounding so don't know if they are real hard or not.
 
Mine are out and hopefully I wont be tearing back into them for a long time! Is it every 60,000 miles or 100,000 or when they start to leak?

They start to leak when they begin leaking; there is no set mileage. The strong recommendation is to plan a full front axle service every 60k miles and you can be relatively certain you're in good shape. Start pushing that interval toward 100k miles and bad things can happen. Push it to 150k miles and you can be certain that you will have expensive repairs.

-B-
 
x2 on what -B- said.

Bearing repack every 30K miles (basically, just the wheel bearings)...I do this every year regardless of mileage.

-o-
 

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