Removing steering arms... (1 Viewer)

[DGAphlyer]

I decided to dive in and redo the knuckles on my FJ40. In over my head and swimming. I did a search all the way back to 06 on this and could not find what I was looking for. So I am guessing that this is a really stupid question (GRIN)...

In the factory manual, they talk about a SST (super secret tool) for removing the steering arm. It appears to press the steering arm out from the inside of the knuckle. It looks like a turnbuckle in reverse that pushes out. Is this the only way to get the steering arm out? Any useful techniques?

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

SST - ha!

Most of us use a BFH, perhaps along with a brass drift to "encourage" the steering arm to come loose from the knuckle.

Good luck!

Alan

 

[Bret]

The best way I have found to get the steering arms off, especially if they have been on for awhile is to pop the cone washers out by hitting the side of the steering arm with a hammer. After that I have "tapped" the knuckle down on the front/rear to get the arm to start coming off and use a prybar to get leverage to pry the steering arm off. You can damage the shims but I have been pretty lucky so far.

 

[Mr. Toad]

The SST is a sweet little press. However, a hammer and brass drift (from the inside of the knuckle) works well too.

 

[vtcruiser60]

The best way I have found to get the steering arms off, especially if they have been on for awhile is to pop the cone washers out by hitting the side of the steering arm with a hammer. After that I have "tapped" the knuckle down on the front/rear to get the arm to start coming off and use a prybar to get leverage to pry the steering arm off. You can damage the shims but I have been pretty lucky so far.

Oh...I wouldn't hit the knuckle studs with a hammer. Use a brass drift on the studs, then a hammer. The cone washers will pop up. Second, tap and wiggle the steering arm, but try...try...try...not to use a metal prybar to lift that arm up and off. Wood or plastic...or even that brass drift will be better.

good luck.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

I just installed 4x4 labs arms so I just went through this. I didnt use a brass punch and a few studs did get screwed up. I found that sometimes a few taps with the hammmer would pop the cone washer up alittle then I used a very narrow screwdriver in the slot to expand the cone washer and it forced itself out. most came right out but two exhusted my knowage of cuss words but finally let go. Good Luck

 

[Bret]

I didn't intend to mean to hit the studs, just hit the side of the steering arm next to the stud. pops the cone washer up. There was a bit of a overhang that I used to pry the arm up, but not marring up the mating surfaces is definately important.

You may be able to pull the studs out of the knuckle and that would give you a bit more wiggle to get the arm off.

 

[teamextreme]

I'm going thru this exact process installing my new 4x4 labs arms and didn't have much trouble removing the passenger arm, but when I removed it I did so without tearing the knuckle down. Just used a hammer and pry bars to gently lift the arm up and get the cone washers out. Everything went fine, no damage, arm came off, but it also brought with it half the trunion bearing, still pressed onto the round pin on the bottom of the arm. Did I do this to myself by not forcing the arms off from the inside? Is this common? Did I ruin the bearing, or can I just drop it back in place and the new arm will press into it? Or should I press the top half of the bearing onto the new arm, then install the arm? That upper half of the bearing was pressed onto the arm pretty damn good. Getting it off the arm was the hardest part. What do you guys think I should do to correct this and how should I approach the driver's side to avoid this, or is it even a problem?

 

[flash02]

I just completed knuckles on my 74, the best way I found is using a brass drift and a BFH. Find a Brass Drift (mine is about 1/2" dia and 6-8" long) place it on top of the studs and tap with a heavy hammer, the washers will start to work there way up the studs, use care you don't need to beat the living S**T out of the studs. I then used a big plastic mallet to work the stearing arms out of the bearings; they may need some more persuasive beating. If you have the time order new studs with the external wrenching ends so you can tighten them up easily, half of mine were bent so you may need new studs anyway. I found rebuilding my knuckles was not hard but very time consuming and messy.

Good Luck!