Hi
i feel you..
My suggestion:
- Take the fuel lines, sedimenter and tank out of the equation and feed the IP from a canister.
- Bleed / prime filter. See below how I do it.
- With priming pump hard: Let it sit and check periodically again. Should still be reasonably hard after a few hours / over night.
If not: There is a leak somwhere between IP and Injectors.
My first suspect in that case would be the filter. Could also be a fine crack in the housing or something. Next step then would be eliminating the filter (temporarly put a simple transparent in-line fuel filter)
Here is how I bleed:
- Put a transparent hose, filled with fuel, on the bleeder, leading into a container.
- Prime. Priming pump should get harder (probably not rock solid yet). You are moving fuel in, which compresses any present air.
- Stop pumping (ideally once you can't pump any more anyway). Open bleeder, observe. Pumped pressure releases now. Compressed air expands and moves out: Bubbles to be observed. Close bleeder.
- Repeat: As long as there is still air in somwhere, it can compress and allows pumping. Once no more air is in, the pump gets solid within 1-3 strikes. Then you are done.
Even with air in lines, the engine should at least sputter with white / gray smoke.
(Provided timing and compression are right and air is available and no fuel cutoff is -well cutting it off)
You may want to check on that.
Other than that, concerning the no-start, question is, whether the IP is actually pumping sufficiently. That would mean: Crack injector lines and turn it over significantly by starter (hughe mess), or remove it and have it tested (hughe effort).
But if mostly everything else (tank, sedimenter, most of fuel lines, filter, engine itself) is ruled out, basically only the IP itself remains as a suspect. Again: Even with bad injectors and leaking lines it should sputter...
Good Luck Ralf
i feel you..
My suggestion:
- Take the fuel lines, sedimenter and tank out of the equation and feed the IP from a canister.
- Bleed / prime filter. See below how I do it.
- With priming pump hard: Let it sit and check periodically again. Should still be reasonably hard after a few hours / over night.
If not: There is a leak somwhere between IP and Injectors.
My first suspect in that case would be the filter. Could also be a fine crack in the housing or something. Next step then would be eliminating the filter (temporarly put a simple transparent in-line fuel filter)
Here is how I bleed:
- Put a transparent hose, filled with fuel, on the bleeder, leading into a container.
- Prime. Priming pump should get harder (probably not rock solid yet). You are moving fuel in, which compresses any present air.
- Stop pumping (ideally once you can't pump any more anyway). Open bleeder, observe. Pumped pressure releases now. Compressed air expands and moves out: Bubbles to be observed. Close bleeder.
- Repeat: As long as there is still air in somwhere, it can compress and allows pumping. Once no more air is in, the pump gets solid within 1-3 strikes. Then you are done.
Even with air in lines, the engine should at least sputter with white / gray smoke.
(Provided timing and compression are right and air is available and no fuel cutoff is -well cutting it off)
You may want to check on that.
Other than that, concerning the no-start, question is, whether the IP is actually pumping sufficiently. That would mean: Crack injector lines and turn it over significantly by starter (hughe mess), or remove it and have it tested (hughe effort).
But if mostly everything else (tank, sedimenter, most of fuel lines, filter, engine itself) is ruled out, basically only the IP itself remains as a suspect. Again: Even with bad injectors and leaking lines it should sputter...
Good Luck Ralf
