- Thread starter
- #21
Looks good!
remove fuel tank
- Thread starter jblueridge
- Start date
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To fit the filler neck:
Attach all thin hoses to the tank prior to mounting it.
The big filler hose is angled in three dimensions. Figure how it has to go in to meet the connectors on tank and filler neck in straight line.
Attach the big filler hose to the filler neck.
Put the hose clamps on, but don't tighten yet. ! Position the tank-side hose clamp so the screw comes on top and faces forward.
While bringing the filler neck in place, slide the filler hose on the connector.
Temporarly place the bolt holding the filler neck.
You can now rotate the filler hose to make sure it covers the connector all the way to the tank. Thighten the hose clamps.
Remove the bolt again to allow some play.
Twiddle the other hoses on, starting with the 1/2" overfill hose.
Work from back (left) to right for the thinner hoses. I put them over the 1/2" hose.
! Don't forget to place the clamps on, first !
A bit of petrolatum jelly helps sliding the hoses on.
Attach all thin hoses to the tank prior to mounting it.
The big filler hose is angled in three dimensions. Figure how it has to go in to meet the connectors on tank and filler neck in straight line.
Attach the big filler hose to the filler neck.
Put the hose clamps on, but don't tighten yet. ! Position the tank-side hose clamp so the screw comes on top and faces forward.
While bringing the filler neck in place, slide the filler hose on the connector.
Temporarly place the bolt holding the filler neck.
You can now rotate the filler hose to make sure it covers the connector all the way to the tank. Thighten the hose clamps.
Remove the bolt again to allow some play.
Twiddle the other hoses on, starting with the 1/2" overfill hose.
Work from back (left) to right for the thinner hoses. I put them over the 1/2" hose.
! Don't forget to place the clamps on, first !
A bit of petrolatum jelly helps sliding the hoses on.
Hose dimensions (BJ73 1985)
- Filler main hose:
You need the original part, as it's angled in 3 dimensions.
- Small hose at the bottom of check valve:
1/4" with a 90° elbow. A straight piece will not work here !
All other hoses are straight.
- 1/2" = 14mm for the overfill pipe. ~20cm (allow a bit more)
Caution: 14mm is not common in Europe!
12mm barely works and 16mm is too wide.
- 1/4" for all other connections between tank and filler neck as well as Check valve.
It is really 1/4" = 6.5mm
In total about 1.5m is required. Actually exactly 1m is required on the tank + ~15 cm on the check valve top.
- 1/4" for the return line (my BJ73 doesn't have that, but the sucction assy is only available with return line. The one-pipe version is discontinued. Had to block that.)
- 8mm for the sucction tube (main fuel line).
- Filler main hose:
You need the original part, as it's angled in 3 dimensions.
- Small hose at the bottom of check valve:
1/4" with a 90° elbow. A straight piece will not work here !
All other hoses are straight.
- 1/2" = 14mm for the overfill pipe. ~20cm (allow a bit more)
Caution: 14mm is not common in Europe!
12mm barely works and 16mm is too wide.
- 1/4" for all other connections between tank and filler neck as well as Check valve.
It is really 1/4" = 6.5mm
In total about 1.5m is required. Actually exactly 1m is required on the tank + ~15 cm on the check valve top.
- 1/4" for the return line (my BJ73 doesn't have that, but the sucction assy is only available with return line. The one-pipe version is discontinued. Had to block that.)
- 8mm for the sucction tube (main fuel line).
Bleeding fuel lines
- Take the opportunity to change the fuel filter and clean the water sedimenter (if fitted).
I disconnected the main fuel line at the priming pump inlet and used a multi purpose fuel pump (kind of an oversized syringe) to bleed the main line. I drained about 2l to be sure there is no air in any more. Block hose with fingertip to prevent fuel to run back to tank and put back on priming pump. Place hose clamp.
Attach a piece of 6mm clear hose to the drain plug on top of fuel filter housing and put end in a container (1l) with a bit of fuel.
Free priming pump (turn knob anticlockwise) and actuate it until it becomes hard.
Open drain plug. Air and fuel will spit out.
Close drain plug when nothing more comes out.
Repeat pumping and bleeding cycles.
As long as there is air left somewhere, a pressure reservoir can be build up and significant flow of fuel can be observed in the clear hose when bleeding, although no bigger air bubbles might be seen in some cycles.
Once all air is out, less than 4 movements on the pump are required and no significant flow of fuel will be observed when bleeding, as the only fuel in the system will not compress. Hose on bleeder plug must be full of fuel now.
Lock pump knop with bleeder plug open (to release pressure from pump), then lock bleeder plug and remove hose from it.
- Take the opportunity to change the fuel filter and clean the water sedimenter (if fitted).
I disconnected the main fuel line at the priming pump inlet and used a multi purpose fuel pump (kind of an oversized syringe) to bleed the main line. I drained about 2l to be sure there is no air in any more. Block hose with fingertip to prevent fuel to run back to tank and put back on priming pump. Place hose clamp.
Attach a piece of 6mm clear hose to the drain plug on top of fuel filter housing and put end in a container (1l) with a bit of fuel.
Free priming pump (turn knob anticlockwise) and actuate it until it becomes hard.
Open drain plug. Air and fuel will spit out.
Close drain plug when nothing more comes out.
Repeat pumping and bleeding cycles.
As long as there is air left somewhere, a pressure reservoir can be build up and significant flow of fuel can be observed in the clear hose when bleeding, although no bigger air bubbles might be seen in some cycles.
Once all air is out, less than 4 movements on the pump are required and no significant flow of fuel will be observed when bleeding, as the only fuel in the system will not compress. Hose on bleeder plug must be full of fuel now.
Lock pump knop with bleeder plug open (to release pressure from pump), then lock bleeder plug and remove hose from it.
Appreciate the write up. Nice work!
ATL Cruiser
GOLD Star
THANK YOU for this list. EXTREMELY helpful.
Ah @Felde, my thanks for your write-up and photos. It was the last step in tracking my air leak - will see tomorrow if I succeeded.
Using straps for the re-install was magic.
My tank came free from the frame easily and apart from a missing filter on the pickup (not in there!) and wasting 2 hours by forgetting to tighten the large hose on the tank.
PO rebuilt with jubilee clips and low quality hose, all rusted and brittle, but did a great job of cleaning the tank, it had about 5 grams of sand and no rust!
Using straps for the re-install was magic.
My tank came free from the frame easily and apart from a missing filter on the pickup (not in there!) and wasting 2 hours by forgetting to tighten the large hose on the tank.
PO rebuilt with jubilee clips and low quality hose, all rusted and brittle, but did a great job of cleaning the tank, it had about 5 grams of sand and no rust!
- Thread starter
- #28
I am always amazed by what you can still buy new for these trucks.
where did you find the fuel pickup tube assy.?
…I was going to say Partsouq, but checked and it was eBay Seller: Good Life Your Life in Japan - TOYOTA GENUINE 77240-60080 PIPE METAL OEM JDM Japan Parts Products | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/204503533116
BTW - air leak remains, multiple parts / O-rings on order…
... help ...
... i have replaced every darn bit from tank pickup to the injection pump including new primer head, fuel filter and o-rings on drain, bottom and top of filter ...
... clear tube before filter assembly no bubbles with draw from electric pump ...
... but still air in tube and slowly going off prime after ...
... trying 3 different primer head [original and 2x OEM replacements from Ebay], two different o-rings in each place drain, filter bottom and top, have double clips on all hoses, have primed through 10 gallons of fuel ...
... help ... any suggestions? anything else to try before posting on BaT? [that's a joke]
... have to admit that i wondered why driver's seat outside edge was worn, I have been in 'n out of this thing 10,000 times...
... i have replaced every darn bit from tank pickup to the injection pump including new primer head, fuel filter and o-rings on drain, bottom and top of filter ...
... clear tube before filter assembly no bubbles with draw from electric pump ...
... but still air in tube and slowly going off prime after ...
... trying 3 different primer head [original and 2x OEM replacements from Ebay], two different o-rings in each place drain, filter bottom and top, have double clips on all hoses, have primed through 10 gallons of fuel ...
... help ... any suggestions? anything else to try before posting on BaT? [that's a joke]
... have to admit that i wondered why driver's seat outside edge was worn, I have been in 'n out of this thing 10,000 times...
... LJ73 with no copper washers in the filter/primer, just o-rings, all replaced and brand spanking new ...
... can't get it to start, at all ...
If there is no fuel at injector when fuel line are loosen, engine won't start. You followed all instruction for priming fuel injection system?
Injection pump timing wasn't touch?
Injection pump timing wasn't touch?
… yes indeedy, fuel at all four injectors, no leaks at injection pump …
… i think it’s still air at the primer / filter, will give it another round of variables today including petroleum jelly on each o-ring and line before assembly…
… watch this space…
… i think it’s still air at the primer / filter, will give it another round of variables today including petroleum jelly on each o-ring and line before assembly…
… watch this space…