Removable CO2 tank stand/bracket

[Riley]

I needed some sort of bracket system to hold both my CO2 tank and my propane tank. I would have opted for a more standard bolt in method but I’ve got some specific requirements that prevented me from using the more standard approach to this problem:

• I need to be able to remove the bracket/stand in a few brief minutes to allow me to still sleep in the rear of the 80 and also need fast removal for when the wife needs to cart a bunch of kids around with the 3rd row seats.
  
• I needed to complete the project in a weekend cause I’m running out of time.
  
• I don’t have any welding skills or equipment so I needed to base the design on plywood and brackets.

I know of lot of the guys will comment “is this strong enough to retain the tanks in an accident?”. Well that’s a good question and I’m not sure of the answer. I’d like to secure it better and strengthen the back brace so it’s going to be a work in progress. Certainly it’s a lot better than I had before which was nothing. suggestions are welcome.

I decided to make use of the OEM cargo hook which flips up and then can be flipped back down out of the way. I added a second hinged flip up point to provide another point at the front of the bracket/stand. I needed to work around the 3rd set of seat belts because those do get used by the family once in a blue moon.

Here’s a pic of the wood base of the bracket stand. You can see the slots cut out for the flip up hinges (cargo ties) and also the notch cut out for the seat belt strap. The hinge is also shown with an a couple of extra large holes and cut down to size.

 

[Riley]

I secured the second flip up bracket onto the bolt that holds the bar latch for the 3rd row rear seat.

 

[Riley]

I made a wood back plate and secured it with a 5 L type braces. For extra strength I should remove the wood screws and use bolts. The wood screws are likely the weak point at the moment.

I used I bolts for the strap points for the tanks. I might modify/improve by removing the cargo straps and I bolts and use standard metal tank brackets when I find some that are the right size and for not too much money.

Here’s the final solution with tanks and straps and all. I know I should beef it up some more and probably supply a few more tie points but that’s it for now. It holds things pretty secure all things considered.

 

[PKP80]

That's a pretty clean setup given the time. As long as the back support and base support is strong enough, I'd say you're in the clear (give it a few kicks).

 

[Bryan E.]

Riley, Looks like a pretty good set-up but I'm worried about the rubber straps holding the bottles. I've had rubber straps stretch and give in an impact. I would use nylon ratchet straps. I would also think about adding a diagonal support, from each corner. This could be as simple as a small cable atached to eye bolts, or small chain, or even a piece of 1/2" conduit, flattened at each end on a 45 angle, screwed to the boards. A diagonal will add a huge amount of strength. My last sugestion is to have at least two floor mounts.

 

[Riley]

Riley, Looks like a pretty good set-up but I'm worried about the rubber straps holding the bottles. I've had rubber straps stretch and give in an impact. I would use nylon ratchet straps. I would also think about adding a diagonal support, from each corner. This could be as simple as a small cable atached to eye bolts, or small chain, or even a piece of 1/2" conduit, flattened at each end on a 45 angle, screwed to the boards. A diagonal will add a huge amount of strength. My last sugestion is to have at least two floor mounts.

Thanks Bryan. I was thinking about the diagonal support as well. I'll look into that tomorrow.

And there are two floor mounts, you can only see one of them from the rear. I should probably add another but it means drilling holes in the floor.

I agree I'd like to improve on the straps. On impact there isn't any force on the straps as the force is on the back plate. However in a roll-over situation, they could be a problem. I'm gonna keep looking for a fire ext. bracket or perhaps order Christo's tank bracket and fasten it to my bracket.

I'll take a look at some racket straps too. Good idea.

 

[Rich]

Riley, I understand that even moderate speed collisions can result in G forces from 30 - 50 G's. To test your setup, fasten it to a vertical surface with the "back" horizontal and attempt to place 30 - 50 times the filled weight of the two tanks.

 

[cruiserdan]

I suggest you take another piece of plywood and make a side panel in the shape of a triangle. Something along the line of the lower photo.

 

[Riley]

Thanks Dan, again I'm thinking same thing. Nice job BTW. Where does your "box" fasten to the truck?

Anybody know if the PowerTank and the Outback tanks? I figured that they would be but not 100% sure. I'm thinking I could use the bracket for the Power tank instead of bungy straps.

Considering Rich's comment about the G forces, an easier solution for ensuring the bottle doesn't wack someone in an accident, I thought I could add a safety strap/chain. In a crash the stand doesn't need to survive, I just need to make sure the bottles don't make to the passenger area.

 

[Rich]

With the objective of improving the strength, Riley's set up, at a minimum, really should have two side panels.

To maximize the strength, within the constraint of continuing to use plywood, I would suggest for both Riley's and Dan's that metal angle, through bolted, run the length of each joint, both internal and external.

 

[cruiserdan]

Mine is 3/4 inch and glued and screwed and bolted all over the place. I am OK with it. It does not move and is certainly as strong as the strap that retains the tank to the commercial bracket.

 

[Rich]

Riley, have you looked to see what it would take to mount metal straps, such as Dan has used, directly to the body side, one tank in each rear corner? From just eyeballing Dan's picture, I would suggest two straps per tank. You would need to see if appropriately strong body structure exists for mounting the straps. Otherwise you still have a fabrication problem to deal with.

With respect to the propane tank, if it were me, I would just carry that on the roof rack, given the risk of a leaky valve.

 

[Riley]

With the objective of improving the strength, Riley's set up, at a minimum, really should have two side panels.

To maximize the strength, within the constraint of continuing to use plywood, I would suggest for both Riley's and Dan's that metal angle, through bolted, run the length of each joint, both internal and external.

Yep 2 side brackets and I was just deciding how to secure them. I was thinking of picking up some angle and flat steel and bolting it through. That should be pretty strong.

Then there's the OEM cargo loop that I'm using as one of the points to fasten it. I'm not sure how strong it is. I've got another tie point at the 3rd row seat bolt as well.

When I take my Co2 bottle and the propane bottle and add that up and then multiply by 50, it's a big number.

Maybe my son and I should wear helmets for our 18 hour drive to Moab. JK.....

 

[Rich]

Yep, 50 G's is a big number. From an engineering approach, this kind of problem is solved by first determing how strong the mounting structure needs to be, and then designing a structure that meets that requirement. The forces to be considered are large.

In terms of mounting anything to the floor, you would perhaps be better off directly bolting to the captured nuts of either the tie downs or the seat mounts, than using the cargo tie down loops.

 

[Riley]

Regarding carrying the propane on the roof, I didn't think propane should be carried on it's side. Also I worry about it flying off and becoming a missile. I guess better outside than inside. I would like it on the outside but it creates other issues for me when on the roof. I also toss my boat over top of my cargo rack and there's not enough room for the tank in the height dimension.

For some trips I can just leave it at home and use small disposable bottles. But most time I like having lot's of fuel.

It's a pretty new tank and I don't fill it full so there's lot's of room for expansion.

Best thing for propane would be a custom rear bumper with a bracket for it. That's not going to happen for awhile.

It's a tough set of requirements when you consider that I'd like to be able to sleep in the back sometimes so it all has to be removed quickly.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[cruiserdan]

Mine is anchored to the third row mounting captive points on the wheelhouse and to the top of the drawer box (which is bolted to the captive nuts that normally fasten the third row floor anchors.

 

[Riley]

Again I'm still thinking about having an additional backup safety strap. I could fasten that to the 3rd row wheelhouse captive nuts and (somehow) secure to the bottles. If stand/bracket ever did give way, the safety strap would prevent it from hitting anybody (which is really the goal here).

Consider a very short tow strap, problem is how to secure to the bottles. Chain is another material I could use but it might rattle.

What a pain,... for my Moab trip I'm now thinking of leaving the bottles at home and using small disposables for the propane. If anything every happened, Id never forgive myself.

edit... another compromise is to just take the CO2 bottle. It by itself isn't too heavy but that propane bottle sure weights a lot.

 

[cruiserdan]

Don't toss your work out the window yet. The location does not leave much of a place for the bottles to go backwards before they would hit the tail gate. What do you plan to have in front of them? a bunch of other stuff, like tent, sleeping bags, duffles, etc between the rear seat back and the "box" will serve to further restrain it. At what point do you stop protecting yourself? When you have a huge "pillow" surrounding the entire vehicle?

 

[Riley]

That's true Dan. I usually have a ton of stuff packed in there. Over the years I've just packed that propane bottle loose. There was a huge pillow between us and the bottle. I figure this is like 100 times better than that.

I think a bit more work for side supports and likely leave the big propane bottle at home. I'd really like to have my new OBA tank with me. If I run out of propane we can always eat peanut butter and jam.

 

[Rich]

I not aware of any problem transporting a propane tank sideways, but I have no knowledge one way or the other. If there is no issue with the tank on its side, put it on the roof rack. Is it not just as easy, or easier, to adequately strap down the tank to the rack as it is to strap it down inside?

With respect to strapping down the CO2 tank, can you strap it down, horizontally, to the third row seat bracket that is mounted to the inner wheel well? Not as convenient for access, but would be more secure than what you have so far, and also accomplishes having your stuff in Moab.