Relocating the air filter box to the other side of the engine bay (1 Viewer)

[KiwiBogan]

Alright, I'm back at it again. I'm not happy with that black pipe going across the engine from the air filter box to the turbo. It gets very hot from the radiator fan pulling through hot air and blowing it straight on that pipe. (That's supposed to be the "cold air intake"). So under normal driving conditions on a 20°c day, the cold air is being heated to about 50-60°c BEFORE the turbo even gets its grubby little mitts on it. I've noticed the later model Prados have fixed this by placing the air filter box on the opposite side of the engine bay. Same with other model LCs.

So I've started looking into what needs to be done to achieve this. You can buy 100 series complete air filter boxes for $99 that should fit in the starter battery space. I might also look into later model Prado air boxes and see which filters are more readily available. If you look at pic #2, you'll see the starter battery, the fuse box, dual battery isolator and catch can will need to move. Starter battery can go over to the opposite side. That's pretty straightforward. But the fuse box is a bit tricky. I think if I move my catch can and the battery isolator, I can rotate the fuse box 90° and up into that space BUT it will involve cutting and lengthening about 6 electrical wires in the harness attached to the same plug

Any auto eleckies reading this have an issue with this idea? Assuming the extended wires are soldered, shrink wrapped and then protected with a wire snake sheild?

 

[little_joe]

Have you actually measured the air intake temps at different locations? or is this "internet lore?"

Obligatory dumb question: have you tried insulating the intake tube?

And not to be critical, but with that existing mess of loose wires - yeow.

 

[KiwiBogan]

Have you actually measured the air intake temps at different locations? or is this "internet lore?"

Obligatory dumb question: have you tried insulating the intake tube?

And not to be critical, but with that existing mess of loose wires - yeow.

Yep I have taken some measurements around the place. Not very scientific though using an infrared reader on the black pipe and metal pre intercooler pipe, and again readings from the more accurate air intake sensor post intercooler using an OBD2 reader. The intake temps measured at the IATS are always miles above ambient temperature in normal driving conditions and much worse when you hit a hill or are towing. I drive a lot of big hills and tow a camper trailer a fait bit. Reading performance articles online trying to understand intake air temps and how they affect performance, somewhere around 10-20°c above ambient temperature post turbo is about good performance zone for an intercooler but I'm not entirely convinced just upgrading the intercooler is going to bring temps down that much. Yes, I've tried using some fabric exhaust wrap product on the crossover pipe and the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler but not sure it was that effective. It would be interesting to try applying that stuff again once the new intercooler goes in and taking some more measurements.

In that second pic, I've undone/loosened off all the wires and taped off the live wires intentionally so I can see what's involved with moving the fuse box. It doesn't usually look that hideous haha

 

[Morrtac]

I'm am also in the process (slow) of relocating the intake to the other side...and open it up for less restricted flow. I have already moved the battery over and in the early stages of designing an airbox to fit in it's old spot.

 

[KiwiBogan]

I'm am also in the process (slow) of relocating the intake to the other side...and open it up for less restricted flow. I have already moved the battery over and in the early stages of designing an airbox to fit in it's old spot.

Great! I'd be keen to hear how you get on. My air box doesn't seal properly so that needs to be replaced regardless. I was thinking of fabbing up a custom job as a new filter box is a bit expensive, but I can get a brand new aftermarket OEM replica one for about $60 on eBay Australia, which is designed for the 2005 Hilux 3.0L TD (drivers side mounted) so am thinking I might just go down the route. It will involve cutting about 5 wires going to be fuse box and extending them by about 150mm. This will allow me to twist the fuse box up into that space mention and fit the new filter box in where the old starter battery was. Slow process for me also. I'm still in the middle of fabbing up the new TM intercooler piping.

 

[Morrtac]

Great! I'd be keen to hear how you get on. My air box doesn't seal properly so that needs to be replaced regardless. I was thinking of fabbing up a custom job as a new filter box is a bit expensive, but I can get a brand new aftermarket OEM replica one for about $60 on eBay Australia, which is designed for the 2005 Hilux 3.0L TD (drivers side mounted) so am thinking I might just go down the route. It will involve cutting about 5 wires going to be fuse box and extending them by about 150mm. This will allow me to twist the fuse box up into that space mention and fit the new filter box in where the old starter battery was. Slow process for me also. I'm still in the middle of fabbing up the new TM intercooler piping.

I was going to try to use a I4 or V6 4runner airbox but they wount fit. The spot welded batt tray is in the way, plus I have ABS so not much room for moving my fuse box .