Poor Man's Roof Top Tent (PMRTT) - REI Roof Top Tent (RTT) on Prinsu Designs Rack (REDUX)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Dissent

Questioning my life choices...
GOLD Star
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Threads
270
Messages
3,798
Location
Sweetwater, TN (East of Knoxville)
NOTE: This is a re-post of a project I created in June 2016. My original post lost all the pictures and it's important to have pictures for this build. I’ve had zero luck adding them back in (REI Roof Top Tent (RTT) on Prinsu Designs Rack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rei-roof-top-tent-rtt-on-prinsu-designs-rack.931692/). So, I just created a new post with some lessons learned as I used the platform over 6 years. Additionally, I'll be revisiting this with v2.0 in the near future so it's a good time to refresh myself and others what a cool project it was.

I've come up with a highly functional roof top tent solution that fits my budget and my garage. I call it my Poor Man's Roof Top Tent (PMRTT). I've mentioned to a few folks who wanted to see what all the hubub was about so here it is.
1741152028559.jpeg


1741152051211.jpeg


Why Do This?
My kids go out with me most every time now and sleeping in the truck and Hennessey hammocks has been working out well but lately, we've been doing overnights without trees so that makes for a cramped truck and tents. I've looked at Tepui roof top tents but my budget and garage clearance (or garage storage for the tent when off the truck) is tight. I needed a better solution that would be as beneficial but not have any of the negatives (massive consumption of roof rack, high center of gravity, wind drag, off camber tipping, cost, storage, etc.) of a real RTT.

UPDATE: A buddy graciously gave me a proper TJM RTT and it’s been a real bear to get it on and off the truck and now that I’ve moved to East TN, it’s VERY HARD to run a trail with a full size RTT on the truck. I’ll be rebuilding this platform soon as it proved so incredibly useful for so many reasons. My TJM RTT has been sitting in the garage for 3.5 years now…I think it may go up for sale soon.

How Much?
I figure the total cost of the tent setup without the rack is about $450. Keep in mind, the beauty of this solution is its portability and flexibility. Any RTT solution will need a rack so I figure that's an assumed expense.

I had an REI Half Dome tent which is a standard 2 person tent measuring 88x52 inches (these are the floor dimensions which is critical to note) that I've used for camping with Boy Scouts. I think I paid about $250 for it new.

I bought plywood, paint, hinges, a ladder, etc. for about $200

I have a Prinsu Designs flat roof rack that I paid about $1100 for when all was said and done. Awesome rack by the way, highly recommend one! The rack footprint across the load bar rails is 80x51 inches. There is about a 3/16 inch lip along each rail.

The Process
I had the tent out for some reason and decided it would fit on the top of my truck so I tossed it up there and it seemed like a good idea to keep going with it. I had a couple of warped sheets of 19/32 inch plywood cut to use as the base (it's all Home Depot had and I was in a rush for an upcoming run) which I laid up on the rack and moved around for a few hours to get the tent settled before I painted them, installed hinges and bolted them down.

Nothing was working and the tent was very floppy and messy.
1741152186112.jpeg


1741154323027.jpeg


1741152330457.jpeg

1741152214621.jpeg

I hadn't considered that the tent poles were protruding another 5" beyond the tent floor.
1741154353840.jpeg

After a couple of more hours, I clamped a crescent wrench to the wood at a 45 degree angle on each corner and used the hole in the handle to wedge the mushroom shaped tent pole tip.
1741152310291.jpeg

Eureka! This was the solution that I had been looking for! I clamped on 3 more wrenches and the tent came to life. It was taught, secure as heck and due to the mushroom shape, the poles wouldn't pull out of the wrenches.

I picked up some beefy 10" straps from Home Depot. They are about 1" wide and have a series of 1/4" holes staggered along them. These attach to the platform with a couple of thumb screws on each corner secured into "t-nuts" inserted in the plywood. When the brackets are screwed to the platform they are rock solid.



1741152373988.jpeg

The platform fits the tent floor perfectly and the bathtub shape of the tent floor sweeps upward just as the edge wants to lay on the 3/16" lip of the rails. My daughter and I slept up there with a couple of Big Agnes air mattresses and the floor was perfectly flat and we fit very well.

I drilled holes and mounted "t-nuts" to reach up through the sun roof to secure the front of the platform to brackets on my crossbars but after deploying it, the platform is pretty heavy and the tent shape actually exerts pressure downward so it forces the wood down and negates me having to secure the front half of the folding platform. In extreme winds it may need to be secured but I doubt it.

Entry and exit is done using a Tepui tents telescoping ladder. This is the same type of telescoping ladder you can buy at Home Depot but it has the bolt on connection brackets at the top. I use a 1/4" clevis pin on one side and a TSA approved padlock on the other to keep honest people honest. The ladder is pinned to Tepui brackets that bolt on the Prinsu rack and live up there permanently. No holes had to be drilled thanks to the expansive slots on the rack. The ladder does block my rear driver's door but in a pinch I can remove it or just lift it up and hold it while the door is opened then it can be lowered. Not a big deal yet. The ladder leads perfectly to the large side entrance (there's an mirrored large entrance on each side) of the tent so the ladder could go on either side. One other great advantage of having a removable ladder is I can finally climb up those big trees to get the huge pinecones! Securing the tent was the most challenging in my mind but once I found the bracket trick, it's so much more solid than I had imagined. By inserting the tent pole into the bracket straight then letting it angle naturally to maintain the tent shape, it locks the mushroom tip in and will not come out unless brought straight up once more. It's easy to bend the flexible pole to insert each corner. I learned to be mindful of the wind and always secure the upwind side first to prevent the tent from blowing over and bending the tips. Once secured, I then pull the stake loop around the tip of the 10" bracket and secure with a carabiner. This adds some peace of mind should a tip break off or something, the tent is securely fastened to the truck.

The platform measures 88x51 inches. Each panel is 44x51 inches. I have a nickel plated 4" piano hinge from Home Depot securing the two pieces. I painted the piano hinge black to match.

The platform is painted with Acrylic Latex gloss paint which should weather the best. The underside is black and the sleeping surface is all white. When closed, the exposed surface is white. All white surfaces have a 2" black border to keep it invisible against the black Prinsu rack. I figure the white would be a better option to reflect the desert sun and heat. The black is to match the black truck.

1741152239646.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Referencing the black panel pic below, the far left white holes by themselves are meant for the 2x rear pins to secure the 2 panels when stowed. The grouping of 3x angled holes at the upper and lower left corners are meant for the corner braces; 2x angled holes for deployment and a third which was meant to swing them in and secure with the thumb screws for stowage but they hit the rear cross bar and I was afraid they would rattle loose and I'd lose the screws. The additional white holes on the black panel inboard and on the right side are to secure the panel to the Prinsu cross bars.
1741152640645.jpeg

This leaves me with a 4'x4' white background just begging for some sort of graphic that can only be seen from high rise buildings...TEQ logo, Punisher (my son), My Little Pony (my daughter).
1741152667153.jpeg

The black screws below are plugs to keep water out, the corner is for the brackets, the top ones are to secure the panel to the front cross bars when deployed if needed. The pins are the silver bolt/washer on the bottom.
1741152702656.jpeg

The clevis pins that hold the two platforms shut stow nicely in the 1/4" holes in my quick fists and keeps them from getting misplaced.
1741152743241.jpeg

The platform is bolted up through my Prinsu load bars into "t-nuts" that are sealed on the tent side, none of the bolts protrude through the "t-nuts" as I cut them all to length. This caused a small issue with the front mounts when stowed so I just plugged the bracket holes with extra black screws and neoprene washers. I can easily remove the 8x end screws from both Prinsu cross bars and remove them along with the folding platform for service. I'll need to do this to get to my plugged OEM roof rack foot holes to run new wiring for solar, lights, etc.
1741152768575.jpeg


1741152779133.jpeg

The flat profile of the wood platform only sticks up about 1" above the Prinsu rails so it's extremely low profile and I can still load up the entire roof rack for the trail run which is a big disadvantage for the real RTT.

I've been asked why I went with a folding platform that that is because the Prinsu rack only measures 80" long and my tent needed 88" inches. The platform extends rearward about 4" but since I have McMaster Carr struts and an extra 1" of lift on my rear hatch, I had to position the platform about 1/4" forward of the hatch spoiler.

This put the front of the platform extending about 7" beyond my Prinsu spoiler which won't work while I'm driving. The folding platform also helps keep the tent side cleaner during a dusty trail run which I had an opportunity to try out as the maiden voyage.

1741152870294.jpeg
 
Stowed
Stowed, it's barely noticeable on top of my truck.
1741152973547.jpeg


1741152994242.jpeg


1741153010659.jpeg


1741153018580.jpeg

Setup, Tear Down and Storage
Setup takes about 6-8 minutes by myself, about 1/2 that time with a helper:
First, I assemble the REI Half Dome on the ground without the footprint. The footprint is VERY loose on this tent and makes it impossible to get it on the truck. (3-5 minutes depending on rain fly usage)
Next I unpin and unfold the platform. (30 seconds)
Then I unscrew my waterproofing screws and attach the sturdy 10" brackets (3 minutes)
Then I lift the tent by grabbing the poles at one end and lifting it up onto the rack (5 seconds)
Then I insert each tent pole tip into the bracket and attach the safety lanyard (20 seconds)
Finally, I pin on the ladder and extend it to the ground (30 seconds)

Tearing it down is about the same, two people can fold the tent and fly like a blanket. I have to unpin the ladder and replace the thumb screws with my waterproofing screws (screws with neoprene gaskets) to keep water out of the "t-nut" sockets. I keep the tent in the truck gear in the rear and my 10" brackets live in my air down bag kit along with a tiny tacklebox for the thumb screws, carabiners, and extra clevis pins and screws in case I drop one and lose it. The ladder stows in the rear of the truck with it's clevis pin and padlock attached. The clevis pins that hold the two platforms shut stow nicely in the 1/4" holes in my quick fists and keeps them from getting misplaced.

What I Would do Differently Next Time
It's been 3 months since I build this and to this day the paint is still tacky causing the two plywood panels to stick to one another when stowed. You can push on it with a finger and it feels sort of dry-sticky. An easy fix is to keep parchment paper between them where they contact. I will probably rebuild with 1/8" or 3/16" anodized aluminum or at least better wood and paint one day but the platform is only used a few times each year so it's no big deal right now. I've read that sticky Acrylic Latex is normal but usually clears up after a couple of months. It could also be bad paint. Not sure why it's still tacky.

I'd put more time into better plywood. I figured this was more of a proof of concept so I didn't sweat the materials but that warped wood is causing some grief. When I wash the truck, water tends to sit in the warped lower panel. No biggie but it makes a water stain there when you open it back up. It also causes some contact points along the rear edge where they pin together.

Ultimately, I'd go with aluminum drilled with 1" holes or long slots that would lighten it up, drain better and still provide a solid floor for the tent. From my research, since the Prinsu supports are 12" apart, I could do with an anodized 1/8" or 3/16" aluminum for less or the same weight as the 19/32" plywood. Aluminum is more expensive so I want to find a better way to integrate flat hinges (welded or riveted), some sort of slide out channels to hold the 10" brackets and tie down points for hauling gear. The aluminum would only be about 3/8" thick at most folded and would get me that little extra clearance for 35" tires.

I want to setup a solar panel on the roof for daily driving, storage and camping. I've selected one that will fit perfectly between two rails on my Prinsu rack but when the platform is opened for camping, it will block the solar panels. This will be alleviated by buying a second panel that will be portable for camping. I figure the rack mounted solar will work around town to keep up with the slow charging city driving and auxiliary electric fan as well as when the truck is sitting outside a long time without being driven and then the portable will work for camp as I would probably be parked in the shade anyway so I'll use an extension and stick the panel in the sun. Easy fix.

I'd use stainless steel screws on the piano hinges too, I just noticed they are already rusting.

Thoughts?
Do you see any room for immediate improvement or something that would make this solution easier to manage?

2025 Update
I used this platform about 8 times a year for 6 years before removing it. In that time, the paint never did stop being tacky. I figure that was just a combo of damp plywood and/or crap paint. For wet areas like East TN, some sort of weatherproof lower panel with drainage is a must. I'm still liking the slotted aluminum or HPDE (cutting board) materials as they won't be affected by water. I may try some Baltic Birch plywood with marine grade varnish for the top and maybe the bottom...need to think about the bottom for sure.

I'm also considering a layered, sliding panel design with some sort of pop-up contraption to eliminate the hinges. The hinge worked fine but lifting standing on the slider to lift and lower a roughly 4x4 sheet of plywood was a bit tricky. I had to stand just right to get enough leverage to lift it but then lowering it without slamming it onto the solar panel required taking a few steps forward while the panel was vertical.

I did add a 100W solar panel that has been up there for 13 years now and I do have a folding 100W panel with an extension cord for when I deploy the platform. The platform always sat just above the solar panel and with Prinsu load bars on either side, it never affected the panel, even with me sitting on the platform directly above the panel.

1741154570481.jpeg


I use the medium Rigid gear boxes for all my gear and strapped down 6 loaded containers on top of my folded platform multiple times with zero issue. The rack was very secure and the boxes slid into position easily. I used Stratch-Its with my L-Track fittings to secure the boxes and nothing ever moved.

Final Verdict
This was an amazing addition that I really regret getting rid of. I gave it to a club member when the TJM RTT showed up and I've missed it dearly since then. I highly recommend anyone to give this a shot, it was very easy and hugely functional. I'll be building a new version this spring and plan to have it bolt on where the RTT currently attaches so I can just unbolt the load bars on either side and swap platforms, giving me the best of both worlds as opportunities arise.
 
Last edited:
I fashioned up a contraption to carry the ladder that I never posted. Since I have L-Track everywhere in my truck, I leveraged a couple of 4" octagonal electrical boxes, a large "L" bracket, a bit of L-Track and a bungie cord to make the most secure ladder holder. I plan on re-building this contraption when I build my PMRTT 2.0.
1741153971248.jpeg


1741153985963.jpeg


1741153995112.jpeg


1741154005061.jpeg


1741154012384.jpeg


1741154021617.jpeg


1741154028899.jpeg
 
The irony of seeing this post! A few weeks back, over 2m HAM @Saddletramp was asking if anyone remembered that guy who had the camp tent on a folding platform on his truck. I thought it was you, but couldn't recall for certain. Glad to see you're doing well, and thanks for reposting the details!
 
The irony of seeing this post! A few weeks back, over 2m HAM @Saddletramp was asking if anyone remembered that guy who had the camp tent on a folding platform on his truck. I thought it was you, but couldn't recall for certain. Glad to see you're doing well, and thanks for reposting the details!
That's amazing timing. Getting used to the trees and mud over here but I'm finally getting lockers on my truck and plan to get out a bit more this year. It's good to hear from you and I'm glad you guys are doing well too!
 
Wow, cannot believe we were just talking about this. I sent Tom the flying tent video
 
Wow, cannot believe we were just talking about this. I sent Tom the flying tent video
LOL, I still need a high resolution copy of that. Glad I left a lasting impression out there. It's good to hear from you guys. I think about that nice dusty AZ dirt every time I'm trying to spray off caked on mud.
 
I had a similar setup years ago for my Iron Pig. My needs changed and I never really recreated for later rigs.

What do you see as the benefits with the tent on the roof rather than leaving it on the ground?

Mark...
 
I had a similar setup years ago for my Iron Pig. My needs changed and I never really recreated for later rigs.

What do you see as the benefits with the tent on the roof rather than leaving it on the ground?

Mark...
When I originally built this I had 2 young kids 12 and 8, the 12 year old was in Boy Scouts and my 8 year old always tagged along and usually stayed with me while the older one could camp with the other boys at scouting events. Between our local Cruiser Group camping trips and scouting we were either on the ground in a tent, hanging from hammocks in the trees or sleeping in the truck. I had a small camp kit (REI tent, Hennessey hammocks, Big Agnes mattresses) that had to be extremely flexible depending on who I was with, how many we were sleeping and where we were going. We had 3 trips in a row up above the tree line (no hammocks) with all three of us (can't sleep in the truck, only slept 2 max) and we were in extremely tall grass, extremely rocky areas or muddy areas. After suffering throug these trips, I finally decided to sleep the kids in the truck and I'd go up top to the Penthouse with my REI tent. It really proved to be the best way to go because the tent was always clean, I never had to do any ground prep besides drive around a bit and level my truck with a simple bubble level on the console, I never had to worry about water, mud, rocks, tall grass or insects on the ground and I always had the best view for sunrise. I've even had to relocate my truck after we were all set up due to difficulty finding out camp site in the dark while meeting up with larger groups. It was a piece of cake with everything in and ON the truck. In the single instance I had to use the truck the next day, it was just a matter of pulling the pegs out of the brackets and yanking the tent onto the ground and staking it for the day so it didn't blow away, then I could fold the platform and drive off. There were really zero downsides. The only time it was less than ideal is when I forgot to put the rain fly on and the tent was already setup with my sleeping gear inside (heavy and awkward). That was easily remedied by affixing the fly to the tent poles in the brackets and tossing the fly up into the wind that carried it on top of the tent and over then I simply secured the other end to the tent peg brackets. Only took a few min. The only issue I've ever had is tying out the rain fly which extends about 3 feet on either side of the truck. I ususally use reflective lines to trees or staked to the ground.
 
I had an exciting time during one of the local cruiser club Show and Shine events at the local Toyota dealership where I had the tent displayed for people to check out. I was talking to a couple of guys while I pulled the tent down and sat it on the ground. I turned around for just a second to gather one of the corner brackets from the platform. I heard someone quietly ask "Is that your tent?" as he stared high into the sky pointing at a small orange and silver speck. We all followed his gaze up and a it turns out a little whirlwind/dust devil had grabbed my tent from the ground and soared it into the air about 150 feet or so. We just stared at it for a few seconds in awe muttering how unexpected that was and then it dawned on me...we were at a dealership full of new cars! We saw it hit it's apex and then flip over and start winding it's way down, drifting away towards the new cares of course, so we took off running as it raced away. It swept down, inverted, and looked to be landing in an open space where I could amost catch it but then it blew away from me and just gently scraped the glass sunroof of a customer car in the parking lot, then landed on the ground unharmed. It didn't leave any damage but a small streak in the dust where the plastic couple tied the two aluminum tubes together and luckily the car's owner wasn't there for the grand reveal. That was definitely the most butt puckering moment I've had including all the difficult trail rides over the past 13 years. The guys above have a video someone shot. It was quite an adventure.
 
@Saddletramp was able to send me the video (Thank you!) I uploaded to YouTube:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom