Registering "Moose" (1 Viewer)

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Question: do I need to replace my master cylinder? Bad shot of it but all I've got on phone currently. The top of the cast male end that sits in centre of booster has chipped (see roughness). Rubber oring still in great shape.

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Difficult to see but why not, maybe the master is the problem and not the booster. It all works on vacuum and rubber O-rings.
They are a bit expensive but don't buy imitation and I never use a rebuild kit that fails after a few months. But maybe a rebuild kit is a cheap way to find a problem ?:meh::hmm:
I bought a new brake master and a minute before installation found the 5th lspv bleeder so did not need it :bang:
Anyway if you replace the master first and test the booster the worst thing you might need to buy a booster to, if you have the cash I would not hesitate to much. Also a spare part is handy (I tell myself :devil:)
 
Brake booster was full of engine oil. I'm hesitant to fit the new one before checking if oil is pumping from vacuum pump up vacuum line.

Am I safe to pull the vacuum line and see if oil spits out when I run the engine?
 
Not easy but if you have multiple problems in the system might replace it all and be done with it? Dont know if it is worth fixing? charging, vacuum, braking is all essential.
FSM advice with booster and vacuum is repair or replace.

My old alternator seems to have done 30 years 300k kilometers and did not fail, just replaced as preventive maintenance.

If alternator vacuum pump is leaking oil to the booster trough vacuum line that is another problem and the booster might be fine. Sure it is not dirty brake fluid because that happens.
The big O -ring is for keeping oil in, maybe the vacuum pump air check valve is not working properly?
Inside there is another O-ring that might be broken, just take it apart with FSM procedure, .

Anyway if you start it with loose oil outlet hose prepare to clean a lot because this thing pumps a lot at idle, the vacuum hose should not have oil and if it does not much pressure.

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Check the fsm brake system procedure for testing booster valve operation and air tight check.
And if you replace parts watch out for different parts sizes in building years (length of booster push rod) Not sure but I don't sell stuff.
 
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Thanks for your consistent help and advice HJ60. My 60 is a 2F not 2H or 12HT so its all manifold vacuum for me.

Because I don't know the full history of this vehicle I have to make some guesses. I checked the vacuum lines from manifold and from hard line to check valve and they are bone dry with no oily residue. The check valve however has evidence of oil staining on the plastic but no oily residue.

So my thought is at one point there was valve issues or over filling of oil causing vacuum line to "pump" oil into my booster.

I'm going to fit the new booster but cut into the hose line a clear filter box for air tools to check but I suspect I won't see any oily buildup.
 
Rebuilt booster fitted today, looking fresh. Quick drive and noticeable difference... hopefully inspector feels the same.

July 3rd is the suspension replacement and then 4th of July hopefully roadworthy!

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Huge kick in the nuts today, ARB could not source all parts required for my suspension replacement and 2 inch lift even with a month notice. It will be another month lead time.

I can't drive her anywhere. I've replaced all fluids. Any other cheap mods/maintenance anyone recommends?
 
After some long waits for parts (actually had to get my leafs from freaking Poland and I'm in Aus) I finally had Moose in the shop to get new suspension and lift.

Funny story. I got it fitted at an ARB because they had really competitive rates and I couldn't be bothered with the mess in my front yard/driveway. Dropped it off first thing in the morning and get a call at 3pm saying "we can't fit the rears, you must have an aftermarket diff or tail shaft/prop."

I rock up to workshop and after speaking with them for 5 mins, eliminating the fear of aftermarket mods, I realise they haven't cracked the nipple on the slip shaft. I point this out and the build up of old grease on the outside of the nipple and low and behold once cracked there is ample play to pull the diff forward and the leafs now fit.

They were a bit sheepish and didn't charge me for the labour for the day... as they shouldn't! Very happy with outcome though.

No more to work thru for some plates. Wish me luck.

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Got the girl registered. There's a funny story of the day it was registered about being pulled over by the police whilst driving naked and wet but I'll save you the details. I am now continuing to "baseline" and in the process of making her fit for my wife and baby to drive in.

It's been sitting unloved due to having a baby and all that...but now that my little fella is 4 months old it's time to get back into making this adventure ready.

What's been done since last update:
1. I sourced a compressor and had it rebuilt, brand new condenser receiver dryer and tx valve. Now have really cold air blowing which is awesome.
2. 5 new tyres; went with Falken Wildpeak AT's because at the time I couldn't stomach the $1600 for BFG's.
3. Rerouted hoses in the engine bay as some were resting on rocker cover giving me a nice burning smell in the cabin.
4. Auto electrical clean up; at one point this thing had various mobile phone controllers and hands free mic's, spotlights, caravan light controllers.
5. I've pulled one door panel off to template and laughed when I saw that it was actually masonite. I've got speakers coming from the states and a new head unit (my wife loves tunes on road trips so quality sound is a must) so I'll be trawling the forums for advice on modifying doors to fit 6" units without completing bastardizing the look.

Next major mechanical I want to do is knuckle but I'll enjoy the car with a first trip to some dunes before that. I've also been eyeing off some Dapper Lighting headlights, anyone had some of those put in?
 
Installed today, mounting points for child seats.

Some 60’s get the hard bar across the rear but I think this is the best option to save cabin space. Plates installed under the hood liner between the two skins. Engineered and mod plated on the vehicle.

Ignore the non symmetrical notches and speaker cable hanging from the hood liner; the original owner did not give a single fxxx about looks and threw speakers up there... to be fixed.

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Small update. I got this sweet key ring from a bloke in Slovakia. Bit silly I guess but when you’re obsessed...

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