refresh or rebuild 22re motor

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Joined
Mar 17, 2006
Threads
61
Messages
1,915
Location
Pacifica CA
Original owner of 94 4x4 with a 22re and 5 speed. Only motor mod is a Downey header exhaust. Oil has been changed by me every 3,000 miles. I had one overheating incident at 100,000 miles when a fan belt broke.
Truck now has 150,000 miles and I am thinking it is time to install a fresh timing chain. Although there is no sign of coolant and oil mixing the coolant has been disapearing at a very low rate. The truck also burns oil (2 quarts per 3,000 miles), I assume this is the valve guides.
There is a tick coming from the rear of the motor that I think is a noisy injector or valve (after using the socket extension stethoscope trick) I have not checked the compression yet.

are these conditions typical of motor with this mileage?
I am on a budget and am unsure of the route to take. I have narrowed my choices down to 2
1. Save my pennies and just have yodaman install one of his motors. = Bad for budget but good piece of mind.

2. Replace the timing chain, rebuild the injectors and install a new head with oversize valves and rv cam from engbuilder myself. do nothing to the bottom end.

So how do I test/ check the block before I invest in refreshing the motor. If I have to find a machine shop and hire people I would rather just get all that done by Larry (yoda man)
 
#2.....sounds like you have a head gasket going......just do the top end(timing chain while your at it).....should have plenty life left in the bottom end.....plus you could do the work in a short weekend
 
Have you checked compression?

I'd have the injectors cleaned, get the head shaved, new timing chain and head gasket and stick it back together. You said you were on a budget right? :D An EB head and cam is tempting though.... If it turns out there is a bearing problem, they can be changed from below in a day.
 
Yes, I am on a budget that has not allowed me to unnecessarily make the performance mods to a perfectly good motor. Now that I have decided to tear into it, it seems like a good time for some upgrades. A compression check is definitely in order, I tried it the other day and discovered my compression gauge has a rotten hose. I am leaning towards just doing the top end/timing chain.
 
Assuming my compression numbers are decent. (btw what are good numbers and wouldnt a sticky/bad valve or hg leak affect this?).
I need to come up with a "complete" list of parts.
This is what i come up with from the top of my head.

enbldr complete assembled rv head
rv cam
timing chain/cover (are the engnbldr timing chain kits guides better than stock/equivalent to the doa guides?)
arp head bolt stud kit
oem gaskets, head, intake manifold, water pump, oil pump
Downey header gasket
injectors(o rings)
oem radiator hoses
oem belts
What am I forgetting?
 
ok, well i least i have part of the info;



Perfect. Run it! Should be between 142 and 171 with less than 14 difference between high and low cylinders. You're golden!


__________________
Jerod

89 4Runner "The James Caird" 01 4Runner, for my

Sign the petition for CA OHV license plates!!!

Pacific Mountain Cruisers
 
Hi Doug,

Buy a complete gasket set. It won't cost you much more cash. Then, when you have the top end apart, drop the oil pan and check the bearings by pulling the bearing caps one at a time. Do both the rods and the mains. This will let you see the condition on the crank journals and the lower halves of each bearing. As Jerod said, "This can be done in a day." Should take less with the other stuff apart. Then, with the compression numbers, you will know the shape that the lower end is in and not be guessing.

I learned the hard way when I had my engine refreshed. We had to go into the engine twice. I could have done a real strong rebuild for less than what I spent on the refresh. Now, I want to rebuild it to get more torque and HP. I'm thinking of doing a stroker. But, that will be another thread.

Good luck.
 
ok, well i least i have part of the info;



Perfect. Run it! Should be between 142 and 171 with less than 14 difference between high and low cylinders. You're golden!

Hey, that sounds familiar! :D

For the record, I dropped the IFS, pulled the pan, replaced all the main bearings and put it back together in 5 hours, alone, in my sweet dirt driveway.... But that wasn't my first time getting in there...
 
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