MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
Now that is an absolutely correct statement. It's a plague these days.
Last edited:
Builds "Rednexus" - 2007 GX470 Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rednexus
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #342
I didn't bother to do my due diligence for PS considering that Rock Auto, Summit Racing, and lots of other places all sell their parts. I assumed (wrongly) that they were legit. Not sure which kit I'll get next time, but all of the PS hoses are suspect. I did go ahead and ping Rock Auto, but don't expect any resolution. Honestly being out $92 for a kit isn't a big deal for me, it's more of their deceptive business practices and they way they treated me.
However they aren't the only manufacturer I've had problems with. I've had warranty/replacement claims or other issues with Ironman (front coilovers), CS Injectors (still think those were fake), JW Fab (plasma booger on my ditch light brackets - haven't posted about that here), and Ellis Precision (sent me the wrong shift knobs - also haven't bothered posting). Everyone else stood by their product and made it right - except for Power Stop.
The overall poor quality of aftermarket parts for these is another topic to discuss. Not sure if this is still just the post-COVID world or if people making junk parts is the new norm.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #343
In other GX-adjacent news, the rebuild of my 2015 Harbor Freight utility trailer is complete. This had a DIY treated plywood floor and sides that rotted out over the past 8 years. I fixed it with 300# of steel that included a 14-ga diamond plate floor and a new and extended C-channel tongue (built from scratch, as the old one was twisted) that allows me to actually see the trailer while backing. I built the upper structure out of 1.5" angle iron so it'll be easy to replace the new plywood in the future. My welding and fabrication skills went from bad to novice during this job - glad to practice on a cheap old trailer instead of something nice. Running my Hobart 210 MVP on 120V did prove challenging - can't wait to be in the new shop with 220V so I can more easily weld thicker stuff.
I do have a few areas to touch-up with more Ford Red tractor paint, but otherwise she's already been used and is way more sturdy than the old iteration.
I do have a few areas to touch-up with more Ford Red tractor paint, but otherwise she's already been used and is way more sturdy than the old iteration.
- Thread starter
- #345
Time flies - hard to believe it's been over 3 years since I did a AT fluid exchange and pan drop. Going to also change fluids in the diffs, TC, and PS, then hit-up the underside of the rig with Woolwax while it's on jackstands. Normally I'd not order all of this stuff on Amazon but my local Wal Marts are chronically sold out of Max Life ATF and Bezos had the best price otherwise.
How often do you use AT-205?
- Thread starter
- #347
Every two years in my motor. This will be the first use in the trans, TC, and PS.
I've used it in my PS before I replaced it. It did what it was supposed to do. The LC80 guys swear by that stuff.
Clean up my steering box leak on my 60. Stuff is fantastic.
- Thread starter
- #350
One treatment dried up my rear main seal seep for a good two years. It started seeping again this winter so I just re-treated the engine oil. I'm hoping to head off any future leaks in the other drivetrain components. It's definitely the real deal of a product.
- Thread starter
- #351
Knocked out the ATF, TC, F+R diffs, and PS fluid in around 5 hours this AM (also pressure-washed the underside of the rig in preparation for a Fluid Film/Woolwax treatment tomorrow). I chose to do this in our driveway (on some plastic as it's messy) since the weather is so nice and my shop is full of other stuff right now.
The diff and TC fluid was honestly in good shape - maybe I just didn't wheel as much over the past year, as it had been pretty nasty after 12 months in the past (which I had attributed to creek crossings and water ingress). The PS fluid was a bit dark but not terrible. I also replaced the Magnefine filter while I was at it.
The ATF was not too bad either. This was a Valvoline MaxLife full fluid exchange with a pan drop that I did in late 2020 (around 40K ago). I had replaced at least 5-6 quarts along the way when I installed my upgraded valve body in 2022. The fluid was a bit dark but still pretty red. Next time I'm going to at least 50K if not 60K before I change it. Having the bigger cooler and WAT valve body must make the rig easy on fluid.
There was a minor amount of sediment in the bottom of the pan and much less than at the last exchange in 2020 and even at the time I dropped the pan for the WAT valve body in 2022. Again I attribute this to the WAT valve body being easier on clutches than the stock valve body. Nevertheless, I still recommend always dropping the pan for a fluid exchange to clean the gunk out.
My fluid exchange setup. Upper hose (cooler exit) goes into an empty jug of ATF. Ms. Rednexus sat in the rig and ran it thru the gears until I had around ~2 quarts out. Then the rig was turned off and 2 quarts of fresh ATF were added via the Motive Power Fill (30 psi off the compressor), prior to repeating the process. Easy peasy - took us probably 15 minutes to exchange the remaining ~12 quarts of old fluid with new fluid, plus two bottles each of Lubegard Platinum and AT-205. I then checked the level from the pan fill plug after the trans had gotten up to 105F (and added around 1/2 quart more to get it to the proper level).
Close up of the hose connections.
Now that I'm 3.5 years and 2 pan drops into using MaxLife ATF, I can confirm this is a great fluid. It holds up very well and has very little degradation. Though I do have the cooler and WAT valve body, my rig gets used hard towing. IMO there is no reason to pony up for Toyota WS when MaxLife is readily available for $25-30 a jug (sometimes it's under $20 at WalMart).
Tomorrow I'll post some pics of the undercoating (as well as side-by-sides of the rig pre-Woolwax in 2021 and after 3 years of Woolwax usage in 2024).
The diff and TC fluid was honestly in good shape - maybe I just didn't wheel as much over the past year, as it had been pretty nasty after 12 months in the past (which I had attributed to creek crossings and water ingress). The PS fluid was a bit dark but not terrible. I also replaced the Magnefine filter while I was at it.
The ATF was not too bad either. This was a Valvoline MaxLife full fluid exchange with a pan drop that I did in late 2020 (around 40K ago). I had replaced at least 5-6 quarts along the way when I installed my upgraded valve body in 2022. The fluid was a bit dark but still pretty red. Next time I'm going to at least 50K if not 60K before I change it. Having the bigger cooler and WAT valve body must make the rig easy on fluid.
There was a minor amount of sediment in the bottom of the pan and much less than at the last exchange in 2020 and even at the time I dropped the pan for the WAT valve body in 2022. Again I attribute this to the WAT valve body being easier on clutches than the stock valve body. Nevertheless, I still recommend always dropping the pan for a fluid exchange to clean the gunk out.
My fluid exchange setup. Upper hose (cooler exit) goes into an empty jug of ATF. Ms. Rednexus sat in the rig and ran it thru the gears until I had around ~2 quarts out. Then the rig was turned off and 2 quarts of fresh ATF were added via the Motive Power Fill (30 psi off the compressor), prior to repeating the process. Easy peasy - took us probably 15 minutes to exchange the remaining ~12 quarts of old fluid with new fluid, plus two bottles each of Lubegard Platinum and AT-205. I then checked the level from the pan fill plug after the trans had gotten up to 105F (and added around 1/2 quart more to get it to the proper level).
Close up of the hose connections.
Now that I'm 3.5 years and 2 pan drops into using MaxLife ATF, I can confirm this is a great fluid. It holds up very well and has very little degradation. Though I do have the cooler and WAT valve body, my rig gets used hard towing. IMO there is no reason to pony up for Toyota WS when MaxLife is readily available for $25-30 a jug (sometimes it's under $20 at WalMart).
Tomorrow I'll post some pics of the undercoating (as well as side-by-sides of the rig pre-Woolwax in 2021 and after 3 years of Woolwax usage in 2024).
- Thread starter
- #353
The original idea came from a YouTube video. I just modified it to add the Power Fill. In 2020 used a funnel plugged into the return line without air pressure, and it took foooorrrrrreeeeevvvvvveeeeerrrrrr for the ATF to make it's way back into the pan. I also tried a similar approach as the video (with air pressure) with a 1 quart bottle when I did the valve body, but ended up blowing the side of a bottle out! the Power Fill was pricey but worth it.
- Thread starter
- #354
Happy Easter!
I spent the afternoon/evening tying things up after church and family activities. This included completing undercoating (Woolwax Black on the exterior framerails, Fluid Film inside of the frame and on the underside of the body panels)
^Rear axle in April 2021, after power washing, prior to first Woolwax treatment.
^Rear axle in late March 2024, after power washing, prior to second Woolwax treatment (I also did a treatment in July 2021 after coming back from CO/UT but let's consider that a touch-up).
^Rear axle in late March 2024, after the second major Woolwax treatment.
I spent the afternoon/evening tying things up after church and family activities. This included completing undercoating (Woolwax Black on the exterior framerails, Fluid Film inside of the frame and on the underside of the body panels)
^Rear axle in April 2021, after power washing, prior to first Woolwax treatment.
^Rear axle in late March 2024, after power washing, prior to second Woolwax treatment (I also did a treatment in July 2021 after coming back from CO/UT but let's consider that a touch-up).
^Rear axle in late March 2024, after the second major Woolwax treatment.
- Thread starter
- #355
^DS front wheelwell, April 2021, after power washing, prior to Woolwax.
^DS front wheelwell, March 2024, after power washing, prior to Woolwax re-treatment.
^DS front wheelwell, March 2024, after Woolwax re-treatment (and new Yota Liners)
- Thread starter
- #356
The pictures should speak for themselves, but I'd consider the Woolwax/Fluid Film treatment a great success. Granted I'm in MO and our winters are nowhere near as harsh as say New Hampshire or Maine, but this rig sees salt several times a year and a lot of creek crossings, mud holes, and off-roading that is hard on undercoating. The first treatment seemed to basically stop the rust - there was no rust progression anywhere after 3 full years. Also my power washing left quite a bit of Woolwax on the frame (which had accumulated some dirt - this is all the gunk shown on my rear axle under Pic 2). With the second "real" treatment now, I think it will build up an even thicker layer once it mixed with some gravel road dust.
Also - I took it for a test drive - the trans was shifting great and I also noted the TC lockup to be smoother/quicker than before. I'm attributing that to the Lubegard Platinum. For whatever reason the GX had a ton of power today as well....maybe due to it being 75F out? Warmest weather I've driven it in for months.
Also - I took it for a test drive - the trans was shifting great and I also noted the TC lockup to be smoother/quicker than before. I'm attributing that to the Lubegard Platinum. For whatever reason the GX had a ton of power today as well....maybe due to it being 75F out? Warmest weather I've driven it in for months.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #357
This is somewhat of an embarrassing post to write - but hopefully fessing up with let others will learn from my mistakes.
Never use additives in ATF!
The first day or so after my fluid swap, my transmission was operating great. Over the next ~300 miles I first started to get kind of weird shifts (not as firm as previous - considering I have a Nomad valve body), then I started to get torque converter shudder at 35-40 mph when it locked up in 5th gear on city streets, then I started to get harsh engagement into reverse (not abnormal with my Nomad valve body, but harsher than before), then I started to get torque converter lock/unlock shudder on the highway. The latter appeared on Monday on our way home from viewing the solar eclipse (after I had pre-emptively flashed the ECU/TCU to clear learned values).
Needless to stay this was concerning, so on the way home I stopped off and picked up 4 jugs of MaxLife ATF ($20 post-rebate a jug at Menards) and did another fluid exchange on Monday evening evening. After that and another ECU/TCU flash, my trans is back to operating as it should, and better than it did prior to the flush ~2 weeks ago.
The MaxLife/AT-205/Lubegard fluid cocktail came out kind of light and watery. I'm 95% certain it was the AT-205 that messed things up. They say it's safe for transmission fluid, but it definitely is not. I think it modified the friction properties of the fluid enough to start causing shuddering and the other issues. I was stupid to add it - was hoping to prolong my seals - but I did not have any leaks and MaxLife ATF has seal conditioners anyway. Honestly the TCC lock/unlock is also smooth using straight MaxLife, so I don't even think Lubegard is necessary. The fluid was not burnt in any way and there was not metal in it - so I'm reasonably confident that it did not damage my A750F for the ~300 miles it was in there.
I've also contacted ATP and asked for a warranty claim on the AT-205 and requested that they clarify/update the advertising and usage recommendations in regards to transmission fluid. We'll see how amenable they are to that.
Never use additives in ATF!
The first day or so after my fluid swap, my transmission was operating great. Over the next ~300 miles I first started to get kind of weird shifts (not as firm as previous - considering I have a Nomad valve body), then I started to get torque converter shudder at 35-40 mph when it locked up in 5th gear on city streets, then I started to get harsh engagement into reverse (not abnormal with my Nomad valve body, but harsher than before), then I started to get torque converter lock/unlock shudder on the highway. The latter appeared on Monday on our way home from viewing the solar eclipse (after I had pre-emptively flashed the ECU/TCU to clear learned values).
Needless to stay this was concerning, so on the way home I stopped off and picked up 4 jugs of MaxLife ATF ($20 post-rebate a jug at Menards) and did another fluid exchange on Monday evening evening. After that and another ECU/TCU flash, my trans is back to operating as it should, and better than it did prior to the flush ~2 weeks ago.
The MaxLife/AT-205/Lubegard fluid cocktail came out kind of light and watery. I'm 95% certain it was the AT-205 that messed things up. They say it's safe for transmission fluid, but it definitely is not. I think it modified the friction properties of the fluid enough to start causing shuddering and the other issues. I was stupid to add it - was hoping to prolong my seals - but I did not have any leaks and MaxLife ATF has seal conditioners anyway. Honestly the TCC lock/unlock is also smooth using straight MaxLife, so I don't even think Lubegard is necessary. The fluid was not burnt in any way and there was not metal in it - so I'm reasonably confident that it did not damage my A750F for the ~300 miles it was in there.
I've also contacted ATP and asked for a warranty claim on the AT-205 and requested that they clarify/update the advertising and usage recommendations in regards to transmission fluid. We'll see how amenable they are to that.
Last edited:
I for one very much appreciate posts like this. It's helps the rest of us greatly and certainly saves us time and most likely money and heartburn.
Thanks Red. Glad you got it sorted out
2nd this
Same. I was considering adding AT 205 to my next transmission service as I usually add a little to the oil and my other car has been using it in the powersteering system with great success in stopping some seepage and little leaks.
