Redesigned xtd 40

[dr_dobro]

Taking my 40 to a different direction, four the its third time. When I first started this project, I wanted to have a semi hardcore truck with the "40" looks, well the truck got beat up in two years and learned from my building process mistakes or ignorance.

I came to the conclusion (by observing and wheeling at the same time) that I wanted to link the entire 40 and stretch the frame on the rear (part of my design) to accommodate the struts without compromising the rear bench seats.

I have started to accumulate some parts and want to build it in the cheaper way (if it makes sense) and light as possible.

Here are the specs:
- LC axles: front FJ62 with 80 knuckles , 80 FF rear (Keeping my 4:88 with ARB's)
- Keeping my LS1
- Ditching the H55F to a Dodge NV4500 (acquired here from JIM S.) and matting this to a Dana 300 with the lomax 4:1
- 3 Link in front, 4Link (not sure of the pattern yet) the rear.
- Recess the 8274 (if possible) as far deep into bib and radiator.
- Stretch the frame on the rear well by 8".
- Cut 5 to 7 inches the front overhang frame
- Make a New tank and move it away from the rear linkage (I have a 79 model, tank under tub) and install a sub. pump.
- At the end custom make a soft top.

I hope I can do this and all of by 2015, will start on frame I have laying around and taking measurements from my 40, will be a lot easier!

Here is a pic of the current 40.

 

[cult45]

How do you feel about an 80s chassis?

 

[dr_dobro]

A friend if mine offered me one, but not worth it , IMO, I still need to cut, trim and link. In my case it will be a lot cheaper to stay with a 40 frame since I own one.

 

[hman913]

In on this one.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Subscribed

 

[lrowe_csp]

Yeah, I'm following this one too, my friend.

 

[dr_dobro]

This will be a slow process, as I am cleaning up the shop and the lack of time. Need to make more room for this project in this one car garage.

I took the FJ62 Front axle (fixed) inspection cover out to weld a new Ruff Stuff cover I had laying around rather than doing a protection cover on it. I also wanted to measure the WMS of this axle with the hellfire knuckles (acquired also here) by using FJ60 outers.

So the front WMS is around 60.5" and need to sort of match the rear FF 80 I have. Well, it looks like by cutting the fixed spindles off the housing and pressing the Ruff Stuff Flange, will get me a little over 2" less of WMS. I will end up using 1.5" spacers per side on the front.

I am trying to do all of this by reusing as much as I have off my current 40, this is one of the reasons I am sticking with toyota axles. I am trying to run 42's on her and I hope the axles will last me some time.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Do not invest any time in the FF 80 rear axle. You have a center rear output transfer, so it'd be cheaper, and significantly stronger, to run a 14 bolt.

 

[dr_dobro]

So you think I should? I do have a second generation 14 bolt but that thing is massive and heavy !

 

[hman913]

So you think I should? I do have a second generation 14 bolt but that thing is massive and heavy !

If you're planning 42's, then absolutely ditch the 80 FF. Toyota parts are expensive when you blow that rear end apart. The offset of the transfer case vs. pinion flange won't make any difference as long as nothing binds.

 

[Fast Eddy]

You need the Marlin Crawler knuckle gussets:

http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/front-axle-armor/heavy-duty-knuckle-gusset-kit

 

[yOHda]

Cool build!

This could be a good read for you on the front axle build.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-land-cruiser/1072473-fj-80-front-inner-axle-length.html

I dig my 80 axles and plan to step up to 40" Nittos or 41.5" Rockers when the time comes. Both of my axles(one being a RuffStuff housing) weigh less than a Dana 60 let alone a 14 bolt.

plenty of examples of guys running 42s and 44s on even the smaller 8" minitruck stuff. Swain had a 2uz and 44s, a lot of the homegrown crew ran big tires on toy stuff. Im going to take a chance with the Toy stuff, I really dont forsee too many problems. I know, I know...famous last words...lol.

 

[Tapage]

nice build .. someday I would be able to do something like that ..

Wonder if you are doing all this .. why not go with the 80 series shafts and birfs .. bigger and supposed to be strongest than smaller 6* series birfs .. yeah I know you will need to make the housing length match the 80 series stuff in order to do it so .. and then you would save wheel spacers too ..

 

[yOHda]

Agreed.

Another thing to think about is 80 series knuckles are going to steer farther than 60 series birfs can handle. Are 80 series and 60 series birfs the same length from the bell to the end?

 

[hman913]

I'm pretty sure Daniel's front setup is a 60 series housing (for the 9.5" center) with 80 balls for the Hellfire knuckles. So you get the best of both worlds... larger diff with larger birfs/knuckles.

 

[yOHda]

Yes, but at 60.5", his axle is not wide enough for stock 80 axle shafts. 80's are 63.5".

 

[dr_dobro]

60 and 80 birfs shared the same length. Inner shaft are easy to custom make as they don't have flanges.

Yes that housing is from a FJ62.

I think a pretty easy method to obtain inner lengths is to fully assemble a stock 62 and my hybrid, then deduct the difference

I have pulled a 97 full floater I had and definitely makes sense to change directions. I guess in the long run it will be cheaper.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

So you think I should? I do have a second generation 14 bolt but that thing is massive and heavy !

You wheel like me, with a heavy right foot. Having the extra beef of the 14b will help prevent trail headaches.

Ask Terry how many diffs he's gone through on his Tacoma. No thank you, I'll stick with my boat anchor!

 

[yOHda]

Then that begs the question why even mess with the FJ60 hybrid axle up front. Might as well go tons from the get go. It sounds like GLTHFJ60 has already been down this road and is trying to save you some time/money/headache. How much will you have in the 14bolt with disc brakes, gears, locker, shave kit, etc?


That's the one thing I hated with minitruck axles was having to run spacers and having a horrible scrub radius which just made it harder on other parts, especially with larger tires.


GLTH, Is he spitting out 8.4 diffs or 9.5 diffs? There is a difference.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That guy Terry is spitting out 8.4" diffs, so yeah there is definitely a difference in strength with the 9.5" setup. However, I bought two 14b axles for $350, one of which is a second Gen with disk brakes from the factory. I sold the gears, housing and hubs of the first Gen 14b for $100, so I'm $250 into my disk brake 14b setup.

I haven't shaved mine yet, but that won't cost more than another $200.

Still, at $450, my stock axle shaft 14b is cheaper and as strong, if not stronger, than a built toyota rear end, and it's way cheaper too! The extra weight is a moot point since Daniel, the OP, has a hot-rodded Vortec in his truck. The axle weight will help lower the center of gravity.