Redarc vs Blue Sea Isolator, Other Advice (1 Viewer)

[EricUT]

Hello,

Hope this isn't a dumb question, but I'll just jump right in, then add some more details and a couple other questions. First, am I correct that the Blue Sea ML-ACR 7622 does everything that the Redarc SBI212 200A isolator can do, and has a higher amperage rating?
Blue Sea: Amazon product ASIN B001VIXLRO
Redarc: Smart Start SBI 12V 200A

Some more detail for anyone interested. I'm planning a dual battery system for my 2001 100 Series, and despite reading for hours I'm still not totally clear on the best approach for what I want to do. I plan to use it to power some accessories as I add them, lights, fridge, winch, compressor etc, and do want it to be able to self jump. I'd also like to be able to add a solar charger down the road. So mostly looking for a platform with legs to grow as needed.

My understanding is that both of these units would allow these uses, correct? And other than the legit cool factor of Redarc being Australian, (which I'm 100% shallow enough to be swayed by, lol) does the Redarc unit do anything the Blue Sea does not, or is it just another voltage sensitive relay? Seems like the 7622 is actually more expandable with the 500A rating, and the inclusion of the remote switch is cool.

Then one final related question, am I correct that my 2001 does NOT have a variable output alternator, and therefore a DC TO DC would be of limited benefit for my application? I haven't taken the time to test it directly, but sitting in my office and figured I'd just ask - from what I've read about 2006 seems to make the starting point for smart alts

Thanks in advance for any help, and again I hope I'm not asking "one of those questions. " I really have done a ton of reading and have been wrenching for over 35 years, but this stuff is all new to me, so go easy!

 

[spressomon]

What type of auxiliary battery are you going to use? Are you going to set-up the aux battery to supply current for all accessories and leave your starting battery alone? How much battery capacity do you need? Will you camp without engine running for a few or more days? Or will you roll each day, and therefore rely solely upon the alternator to keep the aux battery system properly charged?

I use a Sterling 60A DC-to-DC charger in our Escape trailer to keep the LFP (Lithium Iron Phosphate) battery happy. The Sterling, and presumably the Redarc but I don't know for sure, has a selection of pre-set charge profiles and also allows for custom charge profiles which is valuable especially in the LFP world.

OTOH, with the Powergate isolator I have on my 1999 100-Series and a 100A alternator keeps both Odyssey AGM batteries charged without issue. I got 10-years out of the Odyssey auxiliary battery before it needed replacement which is just as much a testament to Odyssey as it is the simple charging from the stock alternator. The BlueSea would operate similarly...keeping an FLA/AGM properly charged if you are rolling long enough to re-charge fully.

 

[EricUT]

The plan for now is to run another AGM as the aux, and run accessories off that. I have young kids, so most of our camping for now is of the park and stay put variety, but it's kind of a mixed bag of both depending on where we are. We don't have huge capacity needs, but I would like to get a fridge and can see that running for multiple days, along with some lighting.

But that raises a bunch of other questions I have. I've got a group 34 Odyssey (PC1500) up front now, so I'm wondering if I do the Slee aux tray as planned, isn't it counterproductive to end up with a smaller capacity battery for the aux spot just because that's all that will fit in that tray? So, I could see flip flopping them and running the starter off the battery in the aux tray, and everything else off the front battery. I'm also trying to figure out what options there might be for putting a 31 in that usual spot in the corner, and just putting the compressor somehwere else, although I really like how slick the Slee system sets up.

I need to read up on the Powergate! I came across it when I started researching all this and kind of dismissed it as too rich for my blood, but like all projects I'm already abandoning the budget so should look at it again. As I recall it's more like a diode, with no mechanical contacts or switching? That's actually what I'm wondering about the Redarc SBI, whether it's a garden variety VSR, or if there's something unique it does to fetch its relatively higher price vs something like a blue sea?

 

[spressomon]

That's what I have: Group 31 in the OEM starting slot and PC1500T Group 34 in the aux position. I would have liked a Group 31 in the aux position but didn't have the patience for the needed surgery to stuff that big carcass of a battery into that slot. Generally I'm not camping more than a night or two in the same spot in the LC these days. And if I do, my modest electrical draw makes it easy to keep up with demand with my Powerfilm 60w blanket. I've had it forever...if I did it today I'd probably buy a higher output Merlin portable panel. Like I said though, it works.

I ran the 500A variant of the BlueSea on my former trailer and it worked fine; simple.

 

[EricUT]

I wonder if I'm over thinking this. At this point i mostly just want to add an onboard compressor. Any reason why i could't just add that now, start carrying a jump box, and worry about the aux battery down the road when i actually add other accessories?

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Have you thought about the solar option on the Redarc DC to DC controllers? I typically camp similarly to you... sans the kids, as my 4 are grown now and can drive their own stuff if they want to come too. For those longer trips with the wife, I was thinking of modifying my dual batt setup to move to this controller with a 100W foldable solar panel that would end up sitting over the windshield while camping to trickle charge the aux batt and keep the start battery isolated, otherwise.

Thoughts on this approach?

Jonathan

 

[Eyedaho]

I'm planning a similar setup to you. I might be missing something, but my thought is to run everything off of my main H8 AGM battery, with the Blue Sea isolator open while camping, thus saving my smaller AGM in the Slee tray for starting. Then closing the isolator to start the rig if the main battery is low. Is there a flaw in this logic?

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Not that I can think of. I am thinking similar, but with the possibility of having a dedicated solar option to make sure that the Aux battery does not fail in the middle of the night (typical period when everything seems to fail).

 

[EricUT]

Exactly what I'm thinking as well, a 31 up front and the smaller unit in the Slee aux tray as the starter battery. Would take a little more time to rewire it all, but it makes more sense to me, though I'm no expert by any stretch. Jonathan I'm with you on the solar too, that seems like a great solution for a park and hang out kind of trip. So for now I'm thinking the batteries as described, a VSR or maybe a 40w dc to dc, and solar.

I feel like this is a pretty complicated, and it seems to me evolving, area though. Honestly I've done things things like cross-manufacturer engine and transmission swaps over the years that seemed less complicated, lol. And last night I started reading up on lithium batteries which added a whole other layer of questions for me. Thank god for the quarantine, I can just keep reading and obsessing when I'd otherwise be working

Good news I think this is one of those "more than one way to skin a cat" things. I'm realizing there's probably an ideal set up for everyone's specific use, but a half dozen other ways to get to "good enough"

 

[FJ60Seth]

The Amazon link isn’t the 7622. The 7622 has a built in switch on the top to manually combine the batteries. This is useful for winching, and pretty important if the main battery dies. I don’t see we’re the Redarc can do this. If it can’t, that would be a hard no for me.

 

[EricUT]

The Amazon link isn’t the 7622. The 7622 has a built in switch on the top to manually combine the batteries. This is useful for winching, and pretty important if the main battery dies. I don’t see we’re the Redarc can do this. If it can’t, that would be a hard no for me.

Hmm, the link I'm seeing has the switch on top and links to the 7622, maybe Amazon is routing the link weird. The redarc can do the same, but you'd just have to set up an external switch. Totally agree that's a must

 

[george.arnold]

The Redarc can manually combine both batteries with a momentary switch and their SBI12. The BCDC1225D or 1240D cannot do this on their own. They need the SBI12.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2204/8993/files/Dual_Input_Ultimate_Dual_Battery_Setup_ee3f65a8-bc2f-4a7e-aa0e-bdc99113a3ba.pdf?v=1583970746

I originally thought I was going to go with the BlueSea setup when I first got my truck, but the more I read the more I think the Redarc BCDC1225D is the way to go. It includes an MPPT solar regulator and charging profiles for different battery types. Add the SBI12 isolator and you can manually combine the batteries from the cab for jump-starting or winching.

 

[Mrtwooooo]

I run the Blue sea 7622. I did some reading to compare it to the redarc and it seems to me the blue sea does everything the redarc can do. I like that the 7622 comes with the switch already. They both are dual voltage sensing so if you put a charge on either battery then it should connect them together. Also if you drain either battery it will disconnect at a certain voltage (the redarc does this as well). I also like how the blue sea packaged with the manual connect latch on the top and the lockout to prevent the relay from closing at all (incase you're working on the system). To me the housing of the blue sea looks way cleaner than the redarc which has exposed wiring. The blue sea is also ~$50 cheaper.

 

[george.arnold]

The thing I like most about the Redarc compared to the BlueSea 7622 is the fact that the Redarc is actually a charger and not just a solenoid that connects the batteries. The Redarc can 'sense' the aux battery and optimize the charge for it. I have heard stories of folks with solenoids ending up with batteries charged at different levels and not being able to equalize them without swapping batteries, side to side. The Redarc also has solar capability built-in. I agree that the 7622 is a good solution and I do like that it has the in-cab switch, but I feel that the benefits of the Redarc outweigh the cost difference. You can add the SBI12 to the Redarc charger and get the in-cab controls for jump-starting or winching.

 

[Eyedaho]

The thing I like most about the Redarc compared to the BlueSea 7622 is the fact that the Redarc is actually a charger and not just a solenoid that connects the batteries. The Redarc can 'sense' the aux battery and optimize the charge for it. I have heard stories of folks with solenoids ending up with batteries charged at different levels and not being able to equalize them without swapping batteries, side to side. The Redarc also has solar capability built-in. I agree that the 7622 is a good solution and I do like that it has the in-cab switch, but I feel that the benefits of the Redarc outweigh the cost difference. You can add the SBI12 to the Redarc charger and get the in-cab controls for jump-starting or winching.

Thanks for the explanation!

 

[EricUT]

Thanks George, good info! To clarify, in my original post I was actually just comparing the Redarc SBI12 isolator, not their DC to DC charger, to the Blue Sea. I'm still not sure if the SBI is anything more than a voltage sensitive relay, but think for all intents and purposes it does the same thing as the 7622.

In the end I finally pulled the trigger last night on the Redarc BCDC1240 with the SBI12 just as you've described. We bought a little travel trailer over the weekend, so I decided it was time to go all in on a power system