One consideration you may have is if you plan on doing any river crossings etc. where you will get water in the vehicle. After much consideration- i chose to start with a basecoat of waterproof bedliner to seal the floor---- I then applied the second skin/ spectrum sludge layers---then sealed the top with another bedlinerlayer.
Having done a few cars in the past with dynamat and second skin- it occurred to me that you will never be able to eliminate air pockets in the second skin layer......these pockets will hold water---and if that pocket is held next to the body--it will eventually lead to rusting from the inside out. By using your top and bottom layers of a waterproof material--you can vastly eliminate water intrusion and subsequent holding of moisture.
I also chose to eliminate the replacement carpet padding layer as it too will hold water. At present im planning on testing a Rhino Liner layer- over the top of the bedliner layer i used which turned out firmer than i had hoped. At present- the bedliner layer had very firm adhesion to the Second Skin Layer as well as the spectrum layers.
I did this only to the floor throughout the vehicle- and simply did the secondskin and sludge to the sidewalls and rear door.
I was surprised to find that up to this point- there is a fairly high pitched harmonic resonance even with the sludge which is supposed to work with higher frequencies. If i had to do it over again- i would likely eliminate the sludge layer on the side panels and choose to do an insulation/heavy foam type layer in the rear 1/4panel voids behind the panels. I also chose to double up on the wheelwells with the second skin as well as some of the more offending bed areas.
I just switched to 255/MT's and am happily surprised at the noticable reduction in low MT lug growl which has been reduced to an "on par" with the drivetrain sounds level of wrrrrrrrrr if that makes sense.
Like anything else---you are only as good as your weakest link....which in a Sub 1995 cruiser is the roof. Unfortunately for us 93-94s we cant remove the headliner in a snap--and thus far i think the next weakest link would be the roof resonances generated. With that being said-- if you do have a 95 up- i would imagine attention to the roof would yield some fairly nice results-especially in the higher frequency whirring generated by the drivetrain which seems to "ring" thru all the panels once you attend to the lower frequencies with the Second Skin/Sludge.
I ended up using just shy of 80feet on the floor/wheelwells and quarter panels with two layers on rear upper bed and wheelwells. Single layer on quarter panels. single layer inside whole rear door(inside) and single inside upper door(a byotch). Heavy waterproof foam padding in quarter panel voids.
At this stage of the game you will notice that things quiet down a lot and what becomes noticable is all the rattles your 10+year old twisty frame is inducing on the plastic panels in these rigs. To eliminate these you can take 1/8" adhesive backed soft cell foam and add it to any and every piece of plastic that comes in contact with other plastic or metal surfaces that can cause a rattle. The worst offenders are in the dash area. Especially the steering column/dashboard intersections which can be "padded" with adhesive foams. If you have a 95+ id say definitely do the roof as it should pay off given the amount of work required to easily snap in and out the headliner.
Having done a few cars in the past with dynamat and second skin- it occurred to me that you will never be able to eliminate air pockets in the second skin layer......these pockets will hold water---and if that pocket is held next to the body--it will eventually lead to rusting from the inside out. By using your top and bottom layers of a waterproof material--you can vastly eliminate water intrusion and subsequent holding of moisture.
I also chose to eliminate the replacement carpet padding layer as it too will hold water. At present im planning on testing a Rhino Liner layer- over the top of the bedliner layer i used which turned out firmer than i had hoped. At present- the bedliner layer had very firm adhesion to the Second Skin Layer as well as the spectrum layers.
I did this only to the floor throughout the vehicle- and simply did the secondskin and sludge to the sidewalls and rear door.
I was surprised to find that up to this point- there is a fairly high pitched harmonic resonance even with the sludge which is supposed to work with higher frequencies. If i had to do it over again- i would likely eliminate the sludge layer on the side panels and choose to do an insulation/heavy foam type layer in the rear 1/4panel voids behind the panels. I also chose to double up on the wheelwells with the second skin as well as some of the more offending bed areas.
I just switched to 255/MT's and am happily surprised at the noticable reduction in low MT lug growl which has been reduced to an "on par" with the drivetrain sounds level of wrrrrrrrrr if that makes sense.
Like anything else---you are only as good as your weakest link....which in a Sub 1995 cruiser is the roof. Unfortunately for us 93-94s we cant remove the headliner in a snap--and thus far i think the next weakest link would be the roof resonances generated. With that being said-- if you do have a 95 up- i would imagine attention to the roof would yield some fairly nice results-especially in the higher frequency whirring generated by the drivetrain which seems to "ring" thru all the panels once you attend to the lower frequencies with the Second Skin/Sludge.
I ended up using just shy of 80feet on the floor/wheelwells and quarter panels with two layers on rear upper bed and wheelwells. Single layer on quarter panels. single layer inside whole rear door(inside) and single inside upper door(a byotch). Heavy waterproof foam padding in quarter panel voids.
At this stage of the game you will notice that things quiet down a lot and what becomes noticable is all the rattles your 10+year old twisty frame is inducing on the plastic panels in these rigs. To eliminate these you can take 1/8" adhesive backed soft cell foam and add it to any and every piece of plastic that comes in contact with other plastic or metal surfaces that can cause a rattle. The worst offenders are in the dash area. Especially the steering column/dashboard intersections which can be "padded" with adhesive foams. If you have a 95+ id say definitely do the roof as it should pay off given the amount of work required to easily snap in and out the headliner.
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