Recent long crank starts

[highonpottery]

@a31gun: I'd assume that will only work if your battery is in good enough condition to actually hold some of that charge, otherwise it's just wasted time and energy. You can take your battery to pretty much any auto parts store for testing. BTW, I believe the general consensus was to go with the Diehard vs the Optima - same battery, less price. I have a Duralast Gold in mine.


I have not yet made myself the jumper device to fix this issue. Actually, it has not happened again since the one day when I ended up pulling and bending/tweaking the fuse prongs to wedge in there tighter. Since I have most of the parts already, I will end up making a pigtail adapter like in the threads above, to use the stock EFI relay with an aftermarket fuse holder in place of the questionable 20a one.
- BTW, I had wife inquire with service rep about this problem when she took it in for service recently -- they said they can't do anything about it unless it's physically showing the problem right then as there's no way to chase down that type of gremlin unless it's showing it's face....also they don't really "repair" stuff like this, they replace whole effected circuit/component (like the whole fuse box in this case). This would likely mean towing it into the shop and a fuse box replacement....yeah, I'm good with a $3 DIY attempt before going that route.

Good luck to anyone else who experiences this issue.

 

[Chalky]

Dear forum members.
while it was a pain getting registered the massive help through IH8Mud (while I negotiated the IT frustrations of being in the middle-east) was spectacular and yes I was having the crank start issue. Yes flashing immobiliser light despite key being inserted and turned. Problem was saved initially by the 30Amp fuse idea, only to fall foul a day later on quick trip to the supermarket and yes hooray the pre-made in reserve link from battery direct to relay socket - got me home. I implemented the full fuse by-pass solution but using the existing relay and hooray all good --

A big thank you to you all.

Now it does not stop there, unfortunately for me, as only two day after the full by-pass of the offending fuse the car would not start and I had no blinking immobiliser. So I bit the bullet and pulled the petrol pipe after the filter and sure enough no petrol coming. Expecting a clogged filter I purchased a new one. A quick physical blow through with the mouth of both filters showed a difference in effort required for the old one but not a block. A quick turn of the engine showed no petrol. So under the back seat for me. Turning the engine revealed no pump and yet 12V being supplied. So new Pump -- Not Cheap -- Quick outside test was good so fitted and turned on car. Still no pump. After much diagnostics it was revealed that the earth was very poor.

So have cleaned all earths I can find and have even run a new earth for the pump.

Moral of this is check your earths first.

i am about to tackle the notorious diff locks (centre and rear) that do not work so see you in that section and the central locking so see you there also.

Great site and great advice THANK YOU

 

[a31gun]

Problem solved! Holy Sh** that was a headache.

So, 2 months before my no start, my serpentine belt shredded on me. I mean shredded. I picked, pulled, and thought I got 99% of the belt out of pulleys and nooks/crannies. That 1% of my belt left in engine bay had gotten under my timing cover. 2 months later on the trail that debris jumped my timing 1 tooth. So I had fuel, spark, and air but no start. Ugh!

I appreciate the forums help and attention to my issue.

 

[2001LC]

Problem solved! Holy Sh** that was a headache.

So, 2 months before my no start, my serpentine belt shredded on me. I mean shredded. I picked, pulled, and thought I got 99% of the belt out of pulleys and nooks/crannies. That 1% of my belt left in engine bay had gotten under my timing cover. 2 months later on the trail that debris jumped my timing 1 tooth. So I had fuel, spark, and air but no start. Ugh!

I appreciate the forums help and attention to my issue.

How did it get in the belt area. Was that little cover piece missing?

We saw a mouse take-out a belt once here in mud.

 

[a31gun]

My guess is the serp belt ran for a few before completely breaking in two. Pulling the metal cords in the belt every where and any where. Even pulling it under the timing cover.
Good news is the serp belt went next to a parts store 2 days just after a solo 3200 mile Colorado, Utah, Phoenix off road/camping trip.

 

[Utahlandcruiser]

For anyone wondering we had the same issue as OP except it ALWAYS took longer to start. I was looking through the maintenance history and saw that the previous owner had taken it Toyota for the same issue and it ended up being the EFI fuse was corroded. They replaced the fuse and it fixed the issue but recommended replacing the entire fuse box. As the issue is still happening I am going to see if I can fix this by cleaning the terminals on the fuse box. I’ll report what happens.

 

[drjman]

It’s the only fix that almost literally guaranteed. Try a different used fuse box or get a new one. How much of your time is worth a new box.