Rebuilding Lower Control Arms? Has anyone done this? (1 Viewer)

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Sep 28, 2020
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Location
CA
Hey all
I'm in the throws of a suspension overhaul on my truck and have found a lot of information to the point where it's almost overwhelming. I'm not a major rock crawler or anything but want to be able to feel confident in my rig to go on mild off-roading and hold up.

I've purchased:
NEW stage 2 ironman foam core lift with UCA's
NEW 17x8" method 314s
NEW OEM CV axles with NEW output shaft seals
I'm excited to throw this all on and figure I will do all of the work at the same time as the lowers. When buying my GX I knew it needed CV axles (the aftermarket ones from previous owner had partially and completely torn boots), Upper control arms and ball joints (replacing with forged Ironman's), and Lower control arms... BUT

My lowers seem in good condition and it seems like a bit of overkill to completely replace my lowers if I can just rebuild with new bushings. I see kits for new bushings online but wondering if anyone in the community has done this, what product they went with and why? If recommended to fully replace my LCA's I will but looking for advice.
THANK YOU!
 
Yeah no need to swap out your oem arms if they are rust free and not damaged (especially if you have kdss then you are essentially forced to keep your existing arms). I've heard good things about the whiteline bushing kit for these.
 
People on the FB group have.

For NON-KDSS you are looking at ~$250 for OEM bushings and LBJs or ~$580 for complete new arms. Complete KDSS arms are insane - like $800-1000 for a new set.

So if doing the work yourself is worth saving the $280 then yes, it can be done but I don't think anyone would call it easy.

Plan on using heat, bottle jack, maybe air chisel, etc to get the bushings out. Plan on a heavy duty ball joint puller and a decent size sledge hammer and a big purse to get the LBJs out.
 
People on the FB group have.

For NON-KDSS you are looking at ~$250 for OEM bushings and LBJs or ~$580 for complete new arms. Complete KDSS arms are insane - like $800-1000 for a new set.

So if doing the work yourself is worth saving the $280 then yes, it can be done but I don't think anyone would call it easy.

Plan on using heat, bottle jack, maybe air chisel, etc to get the bushings out. Plan on a heavy duty ball joint puller and a decent size sledge hammer and a big purse to get the LBJs out.
My lower ball joints are actually ok. It’s just bushings I’m focusing on.. thanks!
 
i have KDSS and replaced all the LCA with all OEM parts. The LBJ are not sold in USA and i had to get it on ebay overseas. The two upper bushing are sold online. If you cant fine OEM LBJ check out 555 brand. Cruiser Outfitters sells them.
 
My lower ball joints are actually ok. It’s just bushings I’m focusing on.. thanks!
I changed the bushings of my LCA a couple of months ago. just used the bottlejack trick and a propane torch. Easy task. To install the new ones, I borrowed a tool from the local autozone. Don't remember which one...
 
I changed the bushings of my LCA a couple of months ago. just used the bottlejack trick and a propane torch. Easy task. To install the new ones, I borrowed a tool from the local autozone. Don't remember which one...
Did you have to take the lower control arms off or did you do it while car was on a jack? What bushings did you get? Did you notice a big difference?
 
I was overwhelming too when I started working on my GX. After spending weeks reading threads in here, youtube and other forums, I started to overhaul all the suspension. Pulled the trigger on some polyurethane bushings founded in ebay (Syberian bushings). Great price, easy install. no complains at this time. Not crazy wheeling but a lot of moderate rock trails.
 
I replace just the bushing using SupePro double offset bushing. It give about 1.6° additional caster. My balljoint still tight and boot in good condition so decide to leave it alone. Goal is to be able to run 35 without doing BMC or flattening the pinch

To maximize the double offset bushing you would need adjustable UCA to take advantage of it completely. I still run 3.7° of caster. Run the SPC at "E" setting to help bring the tire forward.
 

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