Rebuilding Front Calipers on a 1/79 FJ40

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aggiecruiser

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Guys,

I think I may have some front calipers that are toast. They are coming off of a 1/79 FJ40. The caliper pistons seem to be frozen into the housing.

How tight a fit is it supposed to be to get them out?
What is the best method to get them out without boogering them up?

Manual says to use compressed air to remove them...How much pressure should it take for them to unseat, and slide out? I have pictures that I can post up tonight, but they look like hell, lots of granular rust under the piston boots.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Air pressure will not get them out if they are stuck. At least, you won't be able to produce enough pressure to get them out.

Best way I have found is to use the brake system hydraulics. Assuming the calipers are still installed and bled, slide the brake pads out of the calipers, then get in the truck and stomp on the brake pedal. Hopefully you'll be able to get them to move, the brake rotor will keep them from popping all the way out.

CalipersBefore.jpg
 
OReilly had em in stock here in Odessa. About 30 bucks each, work fine. Not worth rebuilding IMO
 
OReilly had em in stock here in Odessa. About 30 bucks each, work fine. Not worth rebuilding IMO


X2, let the rebuilder worry about stuck pistons;)

Ed
 
X3

dont bother. bring your cores, and walk out of the parts store with two rebuilt calipers for $67 plus tax. did it the other day.
 
Texx,

OReilly had em in stock

Are you talking about aftermarket calipers? Direct swap out?

Thanks,
Chris
 
Let me high jack my own thread a bit based on what a couple of you guys are saying.

If you can get rebuilt calipers for that kind of money at Oreilly's and the like, why does CCOT and $OR charge like $175 + $45 core for their calipers?

Their has to be a difference, right?.......(besides price):meh:

Thanks,
Chris
 
I just got mine at Kragen - which was just bought by oriley i heard... 60 some dollars per loaded w/pads, it was easier than rebuilding, and they're shiny!!!
 
Don't look a gift brake too hard in the mouf! Hey, it's cheap, it stops my restored 80 FJ40, and I got waaaay to much in it to take chances. Plus, a lifetime guarantee. I assumed they were aftermarket, at that price i didnt care. Can't speak to the long long term usage, but fine for now.
 
the bonus about cardone and other suppliers that you can source locally is a chain of stores supporting the lifetime(in cardone's case anyhow) warranty. leaks? remove and return, get new one. I have to say, while a bit skeptical of the "cores" they start with, the ones I got were in great shape, no obvious rust pitting, etc. all new parts incl. pins, clips, bleeders, etc. they appeared to be an OEM toyota casting with the "SW+8" or whatever it is exactly stamping in the casting.

Cardone is what the local parts store recommended, with a lifetime warranty and cheaper than other re-manufacturers.
 
It theoretically should not take that much pressure but with years of wear, corrosion and rust they can be a bitch. There is noting really holding them in the cylinder.

KLF method works great. You can do it on a bench with air pressure but you want to put something in between the pistons so they don't fly out.

I don't remember how much the rebuild kit is but it takes about 4-6 hours including re installation for a :banana:mechanic.

There are a couple good write ups in the 80's section that provide general guidelines.
 

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