Rebuild the 2F or Convert?

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I've had two Land Cruisers, a '74 FJ40 and my current rig, an '85 FJ60. I had good times in them both and eventually they both got the 350 treatment. On the 60 I built a couple of variations of the 2F with mixed results. I finally came to the conclusion that my friend, a machinst/parts store owner was right; there is only so much much that can be done to a 2F. On the other hand, the 350 I put in my 60 (a gen II block with roller lifters, Vortec heads and a carefully tuned Quadrajet) with the help of a Mark's bellhousing adapter along with an H55F that I already had, made more power than I thought it would and used less fuel than I thought it would, less than the 2F did. There are things that require welding, like brackets for motor mounts. You have to get a power steering hose made to go from the Saginaw pump to your Toyota box. I ran a self-exciting regulator in the Chevy alternator because there was no source for 5v in a Cruiser which is what that particular alternator required. All in all it went fairly smoothly and I have only one regret; that I didn't do it sooner.
 
BTW, pighead, a couple grand at the machine shop?? Doing what???
Or are you having the machine shop source the new parts???

Oh yes, I had the machine shop source the pistons (30 bucks each)and rings (90 bucks the set), lifters (25 bucks each), timing gears (35 and 63), valves (100), guides (2 bucks each), springs (3 bucks each), gasket kit (hundred bucks ), freeze plugs (7 bucks) and bearings(mains 46, conrod 45, cam 18).
They bored and honed (140), balanced (175), re-ground the crank and cam (115 and 140), valve job with bowl porting (185 plus 250). Recon the rods (48), Surfaced the head (45), surfaced the block (55). I had them install the cam bearings (25) and freeze plugs (20) too.
 
Oh yes, I had the machine shop source the pistons (30 bucks each)and rings (90 bucks the set), lifters (25 bucks each), timing gears (35 and 63), valves (100), guides (2 bucks each), springs (3 bucks each), gasket kit (hundred bucks ), freeze plugs (7 bucks) and bearings(mains 46, conrod 45, cam 18).
They bored and honed (140), balanced (175), re-ground the crank and cam (115 and 140), valve job with bowl porting (185 plus 250). Recon the rods (48), Surfaced the head (45), surfaced the block (55). I had them install the cam bearings (25) and freeze plugs (20) too.

That makes perfect sense then..
 
The 4l80e is basically a 400 updated and it is a 4 spd. The 4l80 comes out in the 3/4 and 1ton applications and will just take more of a beating. I really have not dealt with the 4l60 but it is basically a updated 700 and I would have to say that they fixed some of the problems that they had with them. I have always seen in the 700's 3rd and 4th gear coming out of them. If I am not mistaking it has something to do with the pumps or servos in them I am not sure I just have saw several of them fail. I consider mild wheeling that does not any chance what so ever of messing anything up or any kind of body damage. The reason that a lot of my crew uses the 400/4l80e and 205's is they are usually behind pretty big and torquey motors and it has to be able to take a absolute beating. I know that the 205 does not have the most chosen gearing in it but it is a geared tcase and not a chain driven one and also you have the option of twin sticking it and being able to choose front and rear dig.
 
Hey guys, thanks for the responses. I think I'm gonna stick with the 2F, but my next question is, should I just replace the seals (front/rear main, transmission, etc) or look deeper? I'm gonna be driving this daily for the next few months, then off to Benning, GA for some fun.

RH01

Depends on where the leaks are. My truck is the same month/year as yours and it leaks about 1/2 quart per gas fill. Really a pretty manageable amount. I am going to replace the oilpan gasket, b/c it leaks a bit from there. Other than that, I will put oil into it until some other reason makes me break down the machine and fix the seals.

Once upon a time, I was told that real trucks leak... Just keep oil in it and water out of the oil.
 
figure 5-7k for a late model chevy swap if you do it yourself... that's what it cost me (5k) including a new H55F. I did it, I'd do it again.. I love it. I also travel long distances in the truck pretty regularly. Had it been an around town truck i'da probably stuck with the 2F and built it up for what would have probably been about the same amount of money and effort. Classic is cool.

The v-8's change the attitude of the truck. You may not want that.
 

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