Rebooting Inner Tie Rod w/o disconnecting from knuckle - does the steering need to be free?

[100s]

I'm rebooting an inner tie rod. My plan is to remove the inner and outer tie rods while leaving the outer still connected via it's ball joint to the steering knuckle. As I am turning the inner tie rod to unthread it from the outer so I can slip the boot over the inner I started to wonder about pressure / forces acting on the other side or the rack if the oposite tire is still firmly on the ground (I'm doing this with all 4 up on ramps).

Any issue with this?

 

[2001LC]

Count the thread count on inner TRE up to lock not. You'll be setting lock nut, back to same thread count.
I find unstaking outer boot clamp, and moving off the boot, helpful. If needed, due boot/clamp having good hold on inner TRE.
Use two wrenches. One on outer TRE to hold it. The other on lock nut, to break it free.

While boot off, make sure to check inner TRE, and that it is staked (washer bent over its nut end). We're fine them unstake, in about 1 in 100.

If reuse OEM inner bool clamp. Best squeeze to release clamp.

 

[100s]

Count the thread count on inner TRE up to lock not. You'll be setting lock nut, back to same thread count.
I find unstaking outer boot clamp, and moving off the boot, helpful. If needed, due boot/clamp having good hold on inner TRE.
Use two wrenches. One on outer TRE to hold it. The other on lock nut, to break it free.

While boot off, make sure to check inner TRE, and that it is staked (washer bent over its nut end). We're fine them unstake, in about 1 in 100.

If reuse OEM inner bool clamp. Best squeeze to release clamp.

Thanks, 2001, I should have been more specific, I’m actually separating the inner and outer by turning the inner (unthreading it) while the outer remains fixed and attached to the knuckle via the ball joint. I noticed while doing this that the inner is moving in the direction of the other side of the rig, I can see the gear teeth moving into the rack. I realized because both front tires are on the ground that this might have consequences if the steering system is unable to move freely as the rack moves. I hope this makes sense. Both tie rods are fine, I’m just rebooting the inner and trying to avoid being under the rig on jack stands.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks, 2001, I should have been more specific, I’m actually separating the inner and outer by turning the inner (unthreading it) while the outer remains fixed and attached to the knuckle via the ball joint. I noticed while doing this that the inner is moving in the direction of the other side of the rig, I can see the gear teeth moving into the rack. I realized because both front tires are on the ground that this might have consequences if the steering system is unable to move freely as the rack moves. I hope this makes sense. Both tie rods are fine, I’m just rebooting the inner and trying to avoid being under the rig on jack stands.

Sorry I read poorly. It is best, tire of side you're working is off the ground.

The "rack" is a solid bar from end to end. Inner TREs are threaded into its ends. When you turn inner TRE increasing distance between inner and out TRE. Outward pressure is put on both tires (rubber), if both on ground. It will make turning TRE very hard, and harder the more you turn inner TRE.

By at least, lifting one tire off ground. The inner TRE will turn easily by hand as you unthread. It is best if side you're working on off the ground. Release steering wheel lock, if only tire off the ground, of opposite side you're working on.

 

[100s]

Sorry I read poorly. It is best, tire of side you're working is off the ground.

The "rack" is a solid bar from end to end. Inner TREs are threaded into its ends. When you turn inner TRE increasing distance between inner and out TRE. Outward pressure is put on both tires (rubber), if both on ground. It will make turning TRE very hard, and harder the more you turn inner TRE.

By at least, lifting one tire off ground. The inner TRE will turn easily by hand as you unthread. It is best if side you're working on off the ground. Release steering wheel lock, if only tire off the ground, of opposite side you're working on.

Thanks, that is what I suspected. I'll just double jack stand the fronts enough to get them a couple of mm of clearance and squeeze under there and knock it out. Wife just LOVES it when I am under the rig with jacks stands... at least the tires will be still on.

 

[100s]

Tip, get the inner threaded 95% of the way into the outer BEFORE you clamp the boot to the rack. The boot will rotate but your knuckles will take a beating and it’s painfully slow.

 

[Blake1]

I contemplated this on my 2001.. with over 200k I went ahead and replaced the rack and hoses. .. realized replace the system or start various bandaids over time.

 

[100s]

I contemplated this on my 2001.. with over 200k I went ahead and replaced the rack and hoses. .. realized replace the system or start various bandaids over time.

No ATF/PS fluid was in the boot, inner looked great. Put some new grease in there and away we go. Main concern was water crossings, didn't want water in there.