Rear Shock Upper Mounts - Safe to leave?

[SMLE]

Hi folks,

I'm currently baselining my '04 100 series, and as expected it's costing quite a lot in parts, especially as I'm valuing ease over time taken/paying labour costs.

*EDITED FOR CLARIFICATION*

The recent inspection it had concluded the upper bushes on the rear shocks were needing replacement. I'm aware replacing these (or the shock in general) isn't a fun job due to access and having to cut a hole in the body to access them, but I'm wondering how much of an issue it is to leave them alone until I can afford full new rear shocks in 4-5 months time.

I don't want to cause any issues/damage for the car by not changing them or to the passengers by making it unsafe.

For reference, I'm currently pricing up OEM parts from Dave Steadman @ Japan4x4 for:
New complete rack
New radiator, hoses and supporting bits
Full service
New control arms, panhard bar and drop links etc for rear
New control arms front
New front diff arms with bushes and front 'dohnut' type one.

I sadly don't have infinite funds so I'm doing my best to prioritise these and other jobs, so I'm hoping the rear shock mounts can wait.

Thanks!

 

[excessive]

are the mounts rusted away ? I can imagine that is going to be a difficult repair with the body on

 

[SMLE]

are the mounts rusted away ? I can imagine that is going to be a difficult repair with the body on

Apologies, my terminology wasn't correct, I was referring to the upper rubber bushing. As far as I know the mounts (on the body) are all good.

 

[Malleus]

Hi folks,

I'm currently baselining my '04 100 series, and as expected it's costing quite a lot in parts, especially as I'm valuing ease over time taken/paying labour costs.

*EDITED FOR CLARIFICATION*

The recent inspection it had concluded the upper bushes on the rear shocks were needing replacement. I'm aware replacing these (or the shock in general) isn't a fun job due to access and having to cut a hole in the body to access them, but I'm wondering how much of an issue it is to leave them alone until I can afford full new rear shocks in 4-5 months time.

I don't want to cause any issues/damage for the car by not changing them or to the passengers by making it unsafe.

For reference, I'm currently pricing up OEM parts from Dave Steadman @ Japan4x4 for:
New complete rack
New radiator, hoses and supporting bits
Full service
New control arms, panhard bar and drop links etc for rear
New control arms front
New front diff arms with bushes and front 'dohnut' type one.

I sadly don't have infinite funds so I'm doing my best to prioritise these and other jobs, so I'm hoping the rear shock mounts can wait.

Thanks!

I'm not sure I follow you. Are you referring to these parts?

I've never heard of having to cut a hole in the body to replace these bushings; or any other replaceable parts on the truck, for that matter. Do you have the service manual? There are copies for free download in the Resources forum section.

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, even if there were no bushings on the shocks, they would still work; they would just rattle themselves to death. Eventually. But that would take time. It would make driving annoying, but not unsafe.

Of course, I'm a redneck who grew up driving tractors and other farm equipment, not limousines, so my opinion is a bit colored.

 

[SMLE]

I'm not sure I follow you. Are you referring to these parts?
View attachment 3796028

I've never heard of having to cut a hole in the body to replace these bushings; or any other replaceable parts on the truck, for that matter. Do you have the service manual? There are copies for free download in the Resources forum section.

Yeah that's the ones!

Apparently it's common practice to cut a small hole in the boot floor to access the rear shock top nut to aid in removal (and replacement of shock and/or bushes).

 

[SMLE]

FWIW, even if there were no bushings on the shocks, they would still work; they would just rattle themselves to death. Eventually. But that would take time. It would make driving annoying, but not unsafe.

Of course, I'm a redneck who grew up driving tractors and other farm equipment, not limousines, so my opinion is a bit colored.

Thanks! I can't say I've noticed any noise going over bumps etc like I've had when top mounts have gone on front shocks in the past, so I'm hopeful it's not an issue yet anyway. Apologies for the confusing terminology!

 

[AlpineAccess]

Yeah that's the ones!

Apparently it's common practice to cut a small hole in the boot floor to access the rear shock top nut to aid in removal (and replacement of shock and/or bushes).

If the shock itself is bad, generally it just saves time to cut the top off with a sawzall vs trying to back nut off.

No need to drill a hole in the body work. A 22mm ratcheting wrench makes quick work of installing new rear shocks. Bonus points if it is flex head ratcheting wrench.

 

[Malleus]

IIRC, I took the U-shaped mounting part off when I changed the shocks on mine. It came right off the body. I removed the nut on the bench, and put the new one on the same way. I can't believe Toyota intended anyone to hack the body to remove this part.

Having said that, I did just that when I reinstalled the transmission, after rebuilding it. The two bolts holding the leftmost side of the shifter assembly onto the case are a PITA to remove, because you have to access all four from the right side of the tranmission, where the linkage is located. I used a holesaw to create access holes, where there shoud have been access holes, to get a socket onto the bolts, so that I could use a torque wrench on them.

I will say though, that this case is somewhat different from the shocks, since they are wear items, and the transmission isn't. Even though the clutches are designed to wear, they aren't something you need to access on a regular basis.

There is no way to torque these bolts properly otherwise. I have no idea how it was done on the assembly line; this is one of the very few cases where they have exactly the same access you do.

 

[kbfj621989]

I recently replaced my rear shocks.I had to cut the upper part of the stem.

Can't seem to remove rear shocks!

Not to self, when taking LC to buddies with lift to install shocks bring along a torch and saw zall just in case! :D

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[DFXR]

I wouldn't worry too much about it given how much you've got on your list.

But OEM shocks are cheap (~$50 each) and good quality, and when you're doing the rear control arms etc you'll probably have the spare dropped and it would be a perfect time to replace the rear shocks. Keep in mind that many, many 100/LX owners have managed to do it without cutting holes in the floor. It's not that it's a fun job, but you or any competent mechanic can definitely pull it off.

Rust definitely makes it harder, and the worst cases are the ones that generally end up posting here (understandably). But that doesn't mean it will be that bad for you.

 

[donco]

Ditto, no hole required. 7/8" (22mm) ratcheting box end wrench, large pipe wrench on the upper shock tube. Might dent or ding the old shock but you're getting rid of it anyway. Rubber grip work glove is sufficient to install the new ones with the ratchet wrench.

 

[Eyedaho]

I wouldn't worry too much about it given how much you've got on your list.

But OEM shocks are cheap (~$50 each) and good quality, and when you're doing the rear control arms etc you'll probably have the spare dropped and it would be a perfect time to replace the rear shocks. Keep in mind that many, many 100/LX owners have managed to do it without cutting holes in the floor. It's not that it's a fun job, but you or any competent mechanic can definitely pull it off.

Rust definitely makes it harder, and the worst cases are the ones that generally end up posting here (understandably). But that doesn't mean it will be that bad for you.

This. With the spare out of the way you have much more room to work. It's just a stud with a nut. Pipe wrench or strap wrench to keep the shock body from rotating. If you can't get the nut off due to corrosion then just cut it.

 

[jimoldguy]

if you have not done this yet, and they are original shocks. They are a PITA. there is a 6 or 8 mm recessed socket in the top post of the shock that needs to be held with an allen wrench or box end wrench and small allen: then your 22 mm gear wrench should work. As mentioned above remove spare. I put in Koni 90s on the back and to go in they needed bigger wrenches. 3 hands would help with getting them out.

 

[SMLE]

if you have not done this yet, and they are original shocks. They are a PITA. there is a 6 or 8 mm recessed socket in the top post of the shock that needs to be held with an allen wrench or box end wrench and small allen: then your 22 mm gear wrench should work. As mentioned above remove spare. I put in Koni 90s on the back and to go in they needed bigger wrenches. 3 hands would help with getting them out.

Thanks, still on the list, I'm holding out for now until later this year, got a long list of jobs that will take precedent over this, but put appreciate the explanation!