Rear shock removal

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Aug 19, 2017
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Phoenix
Time for a shock rebuild. Does anyone know if I will have to remove my Budbuilt rear shock guards to be able to remove my rear shocks? Also, I know I would need to disconnect the rear sway bar if I were removing the rear springs, but do I also need to do that if I am just removing the rear shocks?

Thanks!
 

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Time for a shock rebuild. Does anyone know if I will have to remove my Budbuilt rear shock guards to be able to remove my rear shocks? Also, I know I would need to disconnect the rear sway bar if I were removing the rear springs, but do I also need to do that if I am just removing the rear shocks?

Thanks!
You will have to remove the lower bolt for sure as it goes though the lower shock mount but you might be able to loosen and rotate the BB guard out of the way.
 
You will have to remove the lower bolt for sure as it goes though the lower shock mount but you might be able to loosen and rotate the BB guard out of the way.
Good point! Thanks. Any thoughts on whether I will need to disconnect the rear sway bar to remove the rear shocks?
 
Time for a shock rebuild. Does anyone know if I will have to remove my Budbuilt rear shock guards to be able to remove my rear shocks? Also, I know I would need to disconnect the rear sway bar if I were removing the rear springs, but do I also need to do that if I am just removing the rear shocks?

Thanks!
So what did you end up having to do?
 
I decided to have all 4 shocks rebuilt and was pressed for time, so I had my mechanic remove them for me. Not sure if he had to disconnect the rear sway bar or not. I believe he was able to just rotate the rear shock guard out of the way.
 
You do not have to disconnect the rear Sway bar, you DO have to open the KDSS valves (3 turns only)..
Drivers side, you will need to force the axle down (I use a bottle jack) to get the rear shock out.

in reality the rears are pretty easy, the fronts, more challenging... I would definitely loosen the 2 outer lower Control arm alignment bolts and just drop it out of the way.
 
You do not have to disconnect the rear Sway bar, you DO have to open the KDSS valves (3 turns only)..
Drivers side, you will need to force the axle down (I use a bottle jack) to get the rear shock out.

in reality the rears are pretty easy, the fronts, more challenging... I would definitely loosen the 2 outer lower Control arm alignment bolts and just drop it out of the way.
Do you think I need to open kdss if all I did was replace shocks (factory springs and airbags stayed in place)
 
Do you think I need to open kdss if all I did was replace shocks (factory springs and airbags stayed in place)

As long as you only release 3 turns, exactly 3 turns, and no more than 3….there is not reason not to. People with stuck KDSS valve screws CAN still do it…but its a pain. If I let a shop touch the suspension, I literally bring them photos and clear instructions about 3 and only 3…so they don’t create a massive headache from squirting KDSS fluid all over—which require a highly *specialized tool to depressurize to insanely high pressure.

*Specialized to the degree that many Toyota dealership service departments have to borrow them.
 
Having just done this last week. I just loosened the KDSS valves 2 turns. Then i loosened the bottom and top of the shock mounts so there was some play. Then i removed the bottom from the axle completely. Then i removed the top. I was able to reach the top mount from underneath and a socket wrench. You can use an offset spanner through the wheel well as well. Careful when you remove the final shock, the axle might drop an inch or 2.
 
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Having just done this last week. I just loosened the KDSS valves 2 turns. Then i loosened the bottom and top of the shock mounts so there was some play. Then i removed the bottom from the axle completely. Then i removed the top. I was able to reach the top mount from underneath and a socket wrench. You can use an offset spanner through the wheel well as well. Careful when you remove the final shock, the axle might drop an inch or 2.
And then jacked the axle back up to bolt up the new shocks?
 
On a non-AHC 200 this can easily be done with the vehicle on it's wheels too, you'll just need a floor jack or something to compress the new shock enough to slide the lower mount over the post. Really, for standard type shocks it's not all that much force.. I've done it by hand but the jack helps with control. King/BP51/Etc will be more force though due to their rod diameter and nitrogen pressure.

I also use a metal rod to align the metal sleeve in the lower bushing with the post, otherwise it can bind when going the last bit of on/off. This can apply to vehicle in the air as well.
 
And then jacked the axle back up to bolt up the new shocks?
I havent reinstalled yet but ill do it in reverse and jack the axle up or compress the shock with a floor jack as required.
 
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