Rear Pinion - Crush sleeve...

[Funksolid]

So I just rebuilt my rear diff (semi float)

I'm setting the pinion, and tourqueing down that nut. I thought I had everything good, but then my drive shaft would not mount flush to the flange. Thats because the nut is not threaded onto the pinion enough. So I gave it some more, but then my pinion was really hard to turn (well over specs) and that nut was REALLY hard to turn (it was killing me with a 24" breaker bar)

So. Do I torque that nut down and crush the sleeve so that my nut can thread on more, and then back the nut off until I get the proper specs on the pre-load/turning resistance?

Thanks guys


Andrew

 

[weak-link]

whats the ft/lbs for the crush sleeve 300? 24" breaker bar would need 150ftlbs kinda hard to do laying on your back.

 

[KLF]

Sounds to me like you've already over-torqued it if the pinion is too hard to turn. The pinion nut should only be tightened with a crush sleeve, never loosened. Besides, tightening the nut won't do anything about gettting it down into the diff further, it will only pull the pinion out. Something is not right with your pinion bearings if the nut is sticking out too far. Did you replace both the races and bearings as a matched pair?

 

[Bret]

Sounds like the crush sleeve hasn't "crushed" yet.

 

[lehiguy]

The last set of gears I did for the Land Cruiser axles required that the crush resistant crush sleeves be put in a press to get them going. They are very stubborn.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

The last set of gears I did for the Land Cruiser axles required that the crush resistant crush sleeves be put in a press to get them going. They are very stubborn.

Yeah, the initial force required to start the crush could be several hundy ft lbs. (my 480 ft lb torque wrench can't get one started) And as mentioned, you can't uncrush a sleeve, so no overshooting the # and expecting to back off and be okay.

 

[agent orange]

Your issue doesnt make sense. For you to get any torque at all on the pinion the nut has to be sitting flush against the flange, so no matter how much you tighten the nut its not going to burrow into the flange to give you more room, you are just drawing the pinion towards the flange more and more and overcrushing the sleeve. You are going to need a new crush sleeve and you need to redo the pinion preload, so that third is gonna have to come out. Maybe you are using a new pinion nut you got with your gears and its too tall and is preventing the flange on the DS from seating.

BTW i had no problem torquing my crush sleeve with a real big breaker bar, you guys need to eat your wheaties .

 

[DBS311]

Or forget the crush sleeve and use a solid pinion spacer.

 

[KLF]

Your issue doesnt make sense. For you to get any torque at all on the pinion the nut has to be sitting flush against the flange, so no matter how much you tighten the nut its not going to burrow into the flange to give you more room, you are just drawing the pinion towards the flange more and more and overcrushing the sleeve. You are going to need a new crush sleeve and you need to redo the pinion preload, so that third is gonna have to come out. Maybe you are using a new pinion nut you got with your gears and its too tall and is preventing the flange on the DS from seating.

Exactly. Or maybe there is an extra spacer/washer under the pinion nut that is making it stick out too far. Once the pinion nut is seated into the recess of the flange, it's not going any further in, no matter how much you tighten it.

Or forget the crush sleeve and use a solid pinion spacer.

This has nothing to do with the problem.

 

[lehiguy]

Your issue doesnt make sense. For you to get any torque at all on the pinion the nut has to be sitting flush against the flange, so no matter how much you tighten the nut its not going to burrow into the flange to give you more room, you are just drawing the pinion towards the flange more and more and overcrushing the sleeve. You are going to need a new crush sleeve and you need to redo the pinion preload, so that third is gonna have to come out. Maybe you are using a new pinion nut you got with your gears and its too tall and is preventing the flange on the DS from seating.

BTW i had no problem torquing my crush sleeve with a real big breaker bar, you guys need to eat your wheaties .

Not true. The crush sleeve has nothing to do with pinion depth, only bearing pre-load. The depth is set with shims. You should have known!

 

[Funksolid]

Sounds to me like you've already over-torqued it if the pinion is too hard to turn. The pinion nut should only be tightened with a crush sleeve, never loosened. Besides, tightening the nut won't do anything about gettting it down into the diff further, it will only pull the pinion out. Something is not right with your pinion bearings if the nut is sticking out too far. Did you replace both the races and bearings as a matched pair?

Yeah I replaced everything @ the same time (bearings/races/ ECT...)

I did not put any other shims or anything like that it. When I took the diff apart eveything that came off was put back on. I think my new crush sleeve has not crushed yet. To me thats the only thing that makes sense.

Thanks for your help, and I will keep you posted!

 

[Poser]

I did not put any other shims or anything like that it. When I took the diff apart eveything that came off was put back on. I think my new crush sleeve has not crushed yet. To me thats the only thing that makes sense.

In order for this to be true:


The pinion/companion flange would be loose in the pinion bearing races, and if that were the case, you would be able to rotate the pinion by hand with very little effort, which contradicts what you had posted earlier.